Real time help - Re-install of power steering pump (1 Viewer)

Joined
May 14, 2018
Messages
126
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Having a hell of a time installing my new power steering pump. I took my bracket and ps pump out. Now in trying to install them back in I've come short in two of the options:
1. Install bracket first - no problem but that one damn bolt is just a few mm protruding bc the clearance from the manifold is too tight. I ran into this when trying to remove the ps pump by itself which is why I took the bracket and pump off together.
2. Install with ps pump attached to bracket - I can hang the bracket on the mounting bolt on the front of the block with no problem but I can't thread any of the three bracket bolts to the side of the block. I'm going in blind and trying to thread the bolt in by feel and have limited space trying to fit my hand between the bottom of the ps pump and the top of the smog pump

I've read that some people shave the head of the bolt a tad so it won't protrude into the bracket so you can slide the ps pump in. I'm thinking 2-3mm. I'm thinking that's my only option at this point. Going to give this another go tomorrow morning but is there any other option to install this ps pump and bracket back in?

Any suggestion is appreciated.

85 FJ60 2F - OEM ps pump

Thanks.
 

DrRock

SILVER Star
Joined
May 27, 2020
Messages
130
Location
Kent, CT
Got a picture? I’ll take a look at my ‘85 tomorrow in he daytime to see if I can offer up some suggestions
 

Gretsch

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 3, 2017
Messages
1,539
Location
Plano Texas
I installed mine without taking the bracket off the block. Still have original manifold setup with the asbetos (or whatever it it) shield. Getting the bolt in there was a whipping and made the job take much longer than it prolly needed to. But I got it done eventually. I didn't have to shave any bolts to do it. Wasn't easy but its possible.

Since the bracket is off the block, why don't you just remove the smog pump to get access to the bolts to thread them?
 

DFXR

SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 18, 2010
Messages
917
Location
Oakland, CA
I did bracket first, then I shaved the bolt and “pre loaded” it into it’s spot next to the manifold before putting the pump on.

I had taken the bracket and pump off together, but getting it back in together just wasn’t happening.
 
Joined
May 14, 2018
Messages
126
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
I did bracket first, then I shaved the bolt and “pre loaded” it into it’s spot next to the manifold before putting the pump on.

I had taken the bracket and pump off together, but getting it back in together just wasn’t happening.
I saw your post previously and tried your method without shaving the head but I think I'll have to. With the washer, lock washer, and bolt head, there's no clearance even when i pre loaded.
 
Joined
May 14, 2018
Messages
126
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
I installed mine without taking the bracket off the block. Still have original manifold setup with the asbetos (or whatever it it) shield. Getting the bolt in there was a whipping and made the job take much longer than it prolly needed to. But I got it done eventually. I didn't have to shave any bolts to do it. Wasn't easy but its possible.

Since the bracket is off the block, why don't you just remove the smog pump to get access to the bolts to thread them?
Curious if u have the washer and lock washer on there too? Not sure if I want to do without it but I'd probably have the clearance needed.

I may have to try to remove the smog pump as an option. Thanks!
 
Joined
May 14, 2018
Messages
126
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Got a picture? I’ll take a look at my ‘85 tomorrow in he daytime to see if I can offer up some suggestions
Thanks. I'll attack it again tmo morning for a pic. I may try removing the smog pump for access to the three side bracket bolts before I shave the one bolt head.
 

John McVicker

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
3,399
Location
Big Pine, CA
Yep, shave the bolt. AND I think I also ground a little spot on the manifold for just a bit more room. This helped a lot.

EDIT: I for sure shaved the head of the bolt...maybe cut the bolt too, but definitely shaved the bolt head.
 
Last edited:

DFXR

SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 18, 2010
Messages
917
Location
Oakland, CA
I saw your post previously and tried your method without shaving the head but I think I'll have to. With the washer, lock washer, and bolt head, there's no clearance even when i pre loaded.


I think I just have the lock washer on there.

Wish I could tell you how much I cut off the bolt... I just took a chunk off, maybe 3/8", not expecting it to be right, and then the next thing you I was putting it all back together. It's been 3 or so years with no issues.

One thing I did do was buy extra bolts, in case I took off too much.
 

Gretsch

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 3, 2017
Messages
1,539
Location
Plano Texas
Curious if u have the washer and lock washer on there too? Not sure if I want to do without it but I'd probably have the clearance needed.

I may have to try to remove the smog pump as an option. Thanks!

I think there is just a lock washer on mine. There is no flat washer at all.

IMG_5905.jpg



So on the mount, there are three bolts that mount the pump to the bracket, two in front of the pump and one in the back. The one in the back butts up against the manifold when you unbolt/pull it back, which I believe is the one you are struggling with. Trying to remember how I did this now (been many years), but if memory serves, I never removed the bolt when I removed the pump out of its bracket cradle. Bolt stayed in the bracket but could pull it back enough to clear the pump to allow it to come out. In fact the manifold helped to hold it in place. Maybe mine had already been shaved, but at the time I did not see any evidence of that being the case. As I mentioned, even then it was tough to get in there to get the bolt threaded into the new pump. Just that bit took over an hour to get figured out. If you are replacing the bolts then I am not sure how to get that one in without doing something like grinding bolt head or removing the bracket.

Having said all that, how I did it really doesn't matter now as you already have the bracket off the block. That bit has to go back on somehow. If I were in your shoes, I would move the smog pump out of the way, mount the pump in the bracket, and mount the bracket back on the block. You can shave bolts I guess, but it can be done without. Toyota obviously didn't do it that way and since you have the bracket off now, it affords you the ability to get the bolt in before getting the bracket on the block. Good luck with it. HTH.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
4,370
Location
Vermont
I just had everything off the truck and put the manifolds on first. The 3 bolts for the ps bracket to the block were easy. The one bolt that attaches the pump to the bracket does bump into the manifold. I can’t remember if I used a slightly smaller bolt or just put the bolt in the bracket hole before bolting it to the block.
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2007
Messages
468
Location
Vegas Baby !
I recall when I did mine 10 years ago I got so mad that I grabbed my swazall and an 18” blade and cut the old PS Pump off and chucked it down the driveway. Shaved the bolts and things were good. I would not do that now. I would get the old one rebuilt. Parts are getting scarce.
 

Gretsch

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 3, 2017
Messages
1,539
Location
Plano Texas
I can’t remember if I used a slightly smaller bolt or just put the bolt in the bracket hole before bolting it to the block.

So without shaving the end of the bolt, does it not allow the PS to come out? As I mentioned mine cleared and allowed the pump to come out without anything special. Are you replacing the bolts with new? I didn't pull the bolt out so its possible the PO shaved mine down and I cannot see it. I think @Seth S' solution above is all that's needed here (and kinda your only option since your bracket is already off the block). Move smog pump, put rear bolt in hole, mount bracket, mount pump, smog pump back. Sound reasonable?
 

g-man

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 5, 2006
Messages
3,032
Location
Charlottesville VA
Here's a good thread with pics of the bolt holes on the side of the block along with ideas on how to attack this.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
4,370
Location
Vermont
I don’t have the smog pump but I do have the bypass pulley. I did have to move the pulley out of the way to fit the bracket in.
 
Joined
May 14, 2018
Messages
126
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Here's a good thread with pics of the bolt holes on the side of the block along with ideas on how to attack this.
Yeah, that's one of the threads that I studied. I may do what the @The Machinist recommend which is to shorten the bolt by a few mm. I should still have enough thread to properly secure it. Just a few mm protrudes through the bracket that doesn't allow the ps pump to slide in/out of the bracket.

Also seeing @Gretsch 's pic, there is only 1 washer on his set up. Mine has two and it doesn't freely slide out. I want to keep that larger washer in
 
Joined
May 14, 2018
Messages
126
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Success. Appreciate the help. I ended up shaving the bolt head down a tad and shortened the bolt by two threads. It gave me just enough clearance so it wasn't protruding through the bracket.

I ended up attaching the bracket with the shortened bolt "pre-loaded" as @DFXR mentioned. Otherwise, I'd have no way of putting that bolt in with the bracket attached.

I still had some issues trying to screw in that bolt because of access. It was slow going because I could only get an eighth of a turn (or felt like that). But eventually got em all snug.

Again, appreciate all the help. Here are some pics of my workaround.
20201101_154734.jpg


Bolt head shaved and shortened by 2 threads.

20201101_161221.jpg


Bolt "pre-loaded" with clearance to allow the ps pump to be dropped into the bracket.

Oh, and another win was re-attaching the hot air intake j tube to the manifold. I posted a question about the manifold insulator previously. When I had the ps pump out I noticed the J pipe was just dangling but still pointed to the manifold. It still had remnants of the insulator which looked like tabs towards the mounting bolts on the manifold. I was able to attach it to one bolt bit not the one on the bottom. We'll see how long it stays attached. You can see it on the pic above.
 
Joined
May 14, 2018
Messages
126
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
I recall when I did mine 10 years ago I got so mad that I grabbed my swazall and an 18” blade and cut the old PS Pump off and chucked it down the driveway. Shaved the bolts and things were good. I would not do that now. I would get the old one rebuilt. Parts are getting scarce.
From what I've seen on the forum, a remaned/rebuilt ps pump will leak sooner than later. Toyota still has the pump available. Another good option from what I've read is the Saginaw conversion. But I agree, other parts are getting scarce.
 
Joined
May 14, 2018
Messages
126
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Follow up question - I've buttoned everything up and I've noticed I'm getting what sounds like a bad bearing on my smog pump but I can't determine if it's the power steering pump or the smog pump bc I changed both. The PS pump is a new OEM pump and the smog pump is a used OEM. When I spun the smog pulley by hand, there was not sound that made me concerned with a used pump but of course, I'm not spinning it at a fast speed. What's interesting is that the noise doesn't appear until the engine is warmed up. Initially, I thought I had the belt on too tight so I loosened it a bit but the sound is still there.

My question is - could I try to isolate the issue by removing one belt at a time to see which pump is making the noise? With the ps pump, I don't think it'd be a problem bc I'm parked and it's connected to the alternator. With the smog pump belt off, would not running the water pump on a warm engine parked be an issue?

The other troubleshooting I'm going to try is using a stethoscope to see if I can tell which pump is making the noise. The whining sound also increases with RPMs.
 

2mbb

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
5,144
Location
WC, CA
If you only run the engine for one minute or so, it should be OK. Another option would be to start with a cold engine, but still don't run the truck for more than a few minutes.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom