Real time help. Brakes & Rotors

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Nov 6, 2006
Anyone available to help? I have changed the front brake pads and now I was going to change the rotors since I am in there and re-pack the bearings.

Seem to be stuck.

Step: Tap on the bolt heads with a brass drift to release the cone washers. I have wailed on these and the cone washers will not budge on either side. I have dosed them with PB Blaster and they will just not move. Unable to get the flange off. Is there any technique that I could try or approach differently?

Guess I have to, ugg, pay someone if I can't remove the simple little cone washers.:banana:

I've never hit the bolt heads, I've always just beat the piss out of the flange and they shoot out. Be careful hitting the bolts, you could distort them and the threads. Hit the lip of the flange and rotate the hub, repeat. If that doesn't work you could try getting a chisel on the lip where the flange meets the hub, but again, be careful not to bend stuff.

Look for another recent thread, I did a pretty Paint picture of where to smack.
Thanks Cory, it does appear that the flange has been struck in the past - I will go try that.

Just as you pointed out, the FSM indicates striking the bolt head - but I was leary of that.
Find a deep socket that will fit over the stud and is about the same size as the cone washer. Use the socket as a drift to "pop" the washer a couple of times. Usually works for me, good luck.
Does the socket hit the cone washer or around it to pop it? Just making sure, I would then the more inward force on the washer would tighten it the way the nut secures it?

I have located Trunks "paint" photo and have worked up a sweat hammering on the flange and not one has poped out.
Hit the face of the cone washer. It forces it in, then pops back out most of the time. It's a lot better than beeting on the stud and deforming the threads.
I have located Trunks "paint" photo and have worked up a sweat hammering on the flange and not one has poped out.

Really? Wow. I've had to beat on the flange a bit, put usually after 4 or 5 good hard whacks, they'll start to shoot out. Make sure you're hitting the side of the hub cylinder at the flange, not the flange face. And work your way around the hub. If you're using a brass drift you can wail on it pretty hard. I can certainly see how hitting the stud head would direct the most impact to the cone, but it'd still make me leary.

You could try a little concentrated heat, like with a propane torch.
WOW, Thanks guys. BFH and all the above and running inside to the computer to rest and finally they are off on the one side.

Now I know what was causing my shimmy when under hard braking - I took off the 2 54mm nuts with my fingers - dont think those were torqued to spec!

Thanks again guys, Have a Great Memorial Day weekend. Mine is wrenching, which is sometimes fun and well, the :beer:s will come later
Everything was loose, the star washer was there, but beat up bad. Appears I need a new oil seal - should have added that to the list.

Its all tight now, or at least a snug rotation, I could actuall grab the disk on the pass side and move it before I got in there.

And it was time for new pads, very close to the warning tab.
Had to order more parts, went back in today and replaced the oil seals - both sides damaged. And the drivers side appeared to be put on by monkeys - screwdriver marks on the nuts - are you kidding me, how did they get them torqued?

Anyway, my shimmies are gone - Yahoo. Can not believe I waited so long. 128K on the clock and the rotors must have been shot - all new rotors, oil seals, re-packed the bearings and new pads up front - all OEM. Great results.
Thanks to the folks at Toyotaparts4u in Dallas - I have been using them for years and they are a class act.

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