real time belt question #2 (1 Viewer)

[wakesetter]

Yes I searched first. Only found part of the info I was looking for.

OK so I am working on changing out the belts on my 95 FZJ right now. I got the tensioner bolts loose (actually removed them) The ac tensioner won't slide very far up. Got it enough to barely get the belt off but I don't know if the new one will slide on there. I sprayed it down but it won't slide yet. Can I "encourage it along" with a hammer?

Bigger question. I loosened the alt tensioner screw but the alternator won't budge towards the engine to loosen the belts. Is there a set bolt somewhere that needs to be loosened? I am thinking there is one at about 10-11 o'clock, but it won't budge and I am not going to mess with it if its not right.

Thanks in advance.

 

[wakesetter]

got the old belts off, now not nenough slack to get the new ones on.

 

[IdahoDoug]

The A/C won't move until you loosen the lock bolt in the center of the A/C's pulley. Same arrangement on the alternator - it's lock bolt is right in line with the belt and you have to flex the belt to see/get to it. There's a lock bolt and a tensioner bolt on each. OK to use a piece of wood and hammer to gently move, but obviously direct shocks are not good for either component.

DougM

 

[wakesetter]

it seems like I don't have to move the ac, but rather the tensioner pulley. As for the alternator, I am thinking the lock bolt is actually at the bottom front of the alternator, a 10mm at about 6:00.

I loosened it but the alternator still won't move to get enough slack to slip the belt on.

 

[wakesetter]

OK I get it on the ac. Its the bolt in the center of the pulley. That makes sense. Now I will check out the alternator tomorrow when it is light out.

Thanks. Still open to other info.

 

[DTAYLOR]

OK I get it on the ac. Its the bolt in the center of the pulley. That makes sense. Now I will check out the alternator tomorrow when it is light out.

Thanks. Still open to other info.

Alternator has a torx head bolt on the bottom. Clock position is usually around 6-7, if you have the correct belt. If you loosen the tensioner bolt (at 4 o'clock) a bit you can use a 12mm deep socket on the "locking" bolt to allow the bottom to swing in toward the engine.

Get a good feel of the idler pulley bearing to see if it needs to be replaced. You may be able to save a trip later. Mine went out at around 200k. (your mileage may vary) .

 

[wakesetter]

Thanks, I thought that was the right bolt. I loosened it but the alt did not move. I think I was trying to get the top of the alt to move towards the engine though, not the bottom. which is the idler pulley? is it the free spinning small pulley? If so it spins very freely with no "catching" just a slight scratching sound as it spins. Probably a piece of sand. Sorry, I can work on some stuff, but don't know the names of all the parts. I have only had an 80 for a few weeks. Need to get more familiar.

 

[Altaf]

Hope this helps:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=133673

 

[wakesetter]

yes that did help RacerLX. After looking at your pics I have a new question. In your pics you have the belt to the lower right (4:00) on the pulley below the alternator (idler pulley?) on my LC it was on the other side (10-11:00) . In other words, the flat side of my belt was on the pulley. In your pic the v side of the belt is on the smallest pulley. I am thinking yours is correct but I am looking for confirmation here.

 

[Altaf]

Yes, there should be two belts that fit around the small pulley. Sounds like yours weren't installed properly.