real seal and clutch question

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by another line, Oct 24, 2005.

  1. another line

    another line

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    I have 85 fj60 with a 195k miles. My rear seal is leaking to the point that it needs to be replaced. I have taken it to my mechanic who doesn’t specialize in Toyotas, but said he would do the repair. From what I have read on this forum and discussing it with my mechanic we decided that the clutch should be replaced also since he would be going through the labor of removing the seal already. I have two questions that I hope someone could give me some advice on.
    The first question is if I should replace the clutch although it is working fine ( I just bought the cruiser and don’t know if the clutch has been replace already, I know that it has not been replaced in the last year)?

    The second question is - I was quoted $750 for replacing the rear seal, oil pan gasket and clutch. Is this a fair price for this job?

    Any experience or advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks.
     
  2. cruiserjunktion

    cruiserjunktion Cruiserjunktion@gmail.com Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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    DIRTFT

    resurface flywheel
    replace flywheel bolts
    replace pressure plate
    replace clutch
    replace clutch bolts
    replace pilot bearing
    replace throw out bearing
    replace fork pins
    inspect clutch fork
    inspect clutch ball
    inspect clutch slave
    inspect clutch boot

    Buy a fsm

    YOU can do this.......
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2005
  3. another line

    another line

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    Any other suggestions?
     
  4. Jan-78FJ40

    Jan-78FJ40

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    Yes, I try to be a bit more constructive :)

    It is possible to do this yourself, if you know what you are doing, or have a friend, who knows what he is doing, and is willing to help.
    You will have to get out the transfer-transmission combo from under the truck, which is not that easy. It involves removing the shifters, shifter linkages, tranny crossmember, releasing the motor mounts, all bolts that hold the bellhousing to the engine, and wiggling the stuff out.
    Then you need a pilot bearing puller, and an impact wrench would come in very handy.

    If you are not mechanically inclined, I think 750 is quite a fair price.

    And yes, replace the clutch when you are in there. Good for the peace of mind, and it is not likely that the clutch went at some point before 200k miles. Also, the clutch combos, at CCOT or SOR for example, are not that expensive.

    I would still recommend buying a FSM (Factory Service Manual), and hand it to your mechanic, in case something needs to be looked up.

    cheers,
    Jan
     
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