Do ya'll re gear when adding larger tires, pros and cons?
Re-Gearing with larger tires? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jomichael
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I think many dont bother unless over 315's. If you got to ask the benefits.....
- Thread starter
- #3
Worth it for 35's? Especially if you are already in there to add air lockers?
I recently switched to 35" and within 2 weeks of driving, I ordered 4.88 and the install isn't finished yet, so I don't have results yet from the re-gear.
Other threads on here and general recommendation was to go with that ratio. Especially if I may end up on 37" in a few years...
Stock gearing on 35" was nice on the highway (flat) I could do 75mph at 2400rpm. Getting up to speed was a big problem though and climbing grades, constantly shifting which was annoying...
Other threads on here and general recommendation was to go with that ratio. Especially if I may end up on 37" in a few years...
Stock gearing on 35" was nice on the highway (flat) I could do 75mph at 2400rpm. Getting up to speed was a big problem though and climbing grades, constantly shifting which was annoying...
I live where the altitude changes drastically. I went 4.88. Much better now.
Also 3fe or 1fz? these situations tend to show the engine difference more than stock.
That’s what I was ganna say
Road Apple
SILVER Star
As you go up in tire size, you’ll lose power with stock 4.11 diff gears. In high range you have slower acceleration, slower climbing grades, and worst performance in the mountains.
In low range you’ll drive faster over obstacles, have less control, and invite damage.
To maintain close to stock gearing you need to re-gear the differentials with 4.56’s for 35’s, 4.88’s for 37’s, and 5.29’s for 40’s.
Another option is to re-gear the transfer case with high range 10% underdrive gears which will give you close to 4.56 high range gearing. Most people also install low range 25% gear reduction.
In low range you’ll drive faster over obstacles, have less control, and invite damage.
To maintain close to stock gearing you need to re-gear the differentials with 4.56’s for 35’s, 4.88’s for 37’s, and 5.29’s for 40’s.
Another option is to re-gear the transfer case with high range 10% underdrive gears which will give you close to 4.56 high range gearing. Most people also install low range 25% gear reduction.
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Another consideration is that the stock R&P is a very tough pair of parts. That is the main reason I have maintained mine despite 35's. Have not been too challenged by the gearing on the trail but will be going with transfer gearing If the need is felt.
That's what I'm doing now, gearing and rear locker.
Also welding on front diff armor...
- Thread starter
- #11
Didn't know you could re-gear the transfer case. Is re-gearing the transfer case easier and cheaper that doing both axles? Would that put more strain on the driveshaft u-joints?
COYS
SILVER Star
The FZJ80 is my daily driver in the heart of LA.
35s/4.88s were a bit buzzy at hwy speeds. It always bothered me and the fact that my speedo was off by 3-4mph.
After 25K miles of that I went to 37s. Ideal for my needs. Back to near stock gearing. Speedo is off ~1mph. 75mph on 37s feels like 65mph on 35s.
For those who like related details, I did intentionally try to mitigate the upsized tire weight impact by going with a lighter weight AT tire rather than sticking with a heavier hybrid tire so I actually ended up being static weight net negative by a few lbs.
Knowing what I know now, I’d skip 35s/4.88s all together.
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Road Apple
SILVER Star
Re-gearing will add torque to the drivetrain as a whole.
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REKCUT
SILVER Star
I will agree that re-gear with 315 is a + i will add that i don't think its enough of a plus to equal out the cost. Ive run 315's for years and well over 100,000 miles and I have never found a reason to spend the $$$$. Once you learn how to drive the truck you can make it preform decently. You have to find your sweet spot in RPM'S. I know that if I keep the truck around 3k i can climb most hills and maintain a good speed. On normal land it gives you a rubber overdrive. I spend a bit of time in the mountains and might feel different if I lived in colorado but like i said. Its a lot of $$$ for not a large amount of change.
I would also feel different if i were into rock crawling. Then the lower gear would make a big difference but I have run most of the hard trials in colorado and almost all around Ouray and my truck performs great.
If you have an unlimited budget then go ahead, but if you have others items still to do on your wish list i would move it down the list.
I would also feel different if i were into rock crawling. Then the lower gear would make a big difference but I have run most of the hard trials in colorado and almost all around Ouray and my truck performs great.
If you have an unlimited budget then go ahead, but if you have others items still to do on your wish list i would move it down the list.
Re gearing takes loads off the drivetrain.
Bludozer
SILVER Star
Opposite experience here. I had 35s/4.88s on my last truck and while it was a huge improvement, it still felt like I could've used slightly more gear. Looked hard at 5.29s/35s this go around but that just felt a little too aggressive.
Road Apple
SILVER Star
Please explain. What takes you to this conclusion?
For the front diff armor depending on which one you go with it's possible you'll need to redo the front panhard bar. Can be a potential clearance issue.
Generally speaking you can climb over obstacles better since there's more torque available, hence less need for the skinny pedal.
Road Apple
SILVER Star
Yes, lower gearing gives you more torque or more load on the drivetrain. @96bruizer is saying the opposite, so I’m asking what his reasoning is.
