Randy88FJ62’s Warn 8274 rebuild thread

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Well I got lazy and did not want to dump $100 and more time into this snatch block so here we are. I'll hopefully take it out for some testing this weekend:

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I'm concerned the main groove OD for the rope may not be deep enough and could come off if I am winching too fast and the rope slacks too much.

We shall see. Not bad for zero $$$.
 

GLTHFJ60

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I think that's why the brendan's garage one has a spacer block with a strap that went around. Looking forward to your report.
 

GLTHFJ60

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The one I linked in post #54, that you clearly didn't click on :lol:

Saving you an extra click:
 
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Update:
A seal in the 8274 is leaking. Saw the oil on my skid plate. I'll have to pull it out and see why it's leaking after such a short period. (edit: Warn 8680 kit would have the seal needed to potentially fix my leak.) This assumes the leak is a bad seal. But why is it leaking? hmm.

Snatch Block update: Works perfectly and I'm very happy with it.
 
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Fixed the seal, installed winch, and now one of the old historic 8274 solenoids gave out.

I want to upgrade to an albright or one of the warn units. What is the new thing to use this year?

Second question. I relocated the solenoid box a foot away to hide under my grill. What gauge wire is required to go from the contactor to the F1, F2, and A poles on the motor?
 

tornadoalleycruiser

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easiest albright solenoid, order from this guy
I will probably order a few more from him for winter winch rewiring.
and 2gauge is what most of us use from batt to solenoid, solenoid to motor.
New cable, crimper, ends i picked up from Temco
Now, i was doing 3+ trucks worth of cables and winch wiring at the same time so it justified the hydraulic crimper. Temco also sells really awesome shrink wrap that has glue built in that activates when you heat.
Here are the terminal covers i picked up. Amazon product
 
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I have the harbor freight crimper and I threw together some 4 Ga line on there for the moment. I definitely think it's too small for the task.

How many amps run between the solenoid and the motor? All 400 amps at max pull?
 

John McVicker

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Prob 4 gauge is adequate, I’ve got three 8274’s & that’s what they came with from Warn…however I have upgraded to 2 gauge just to be on the safe side. Just feel more comfortable that way.
 
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Yes, I noticed the old original wires were rather small. But since the run distance was small maybe they could get away with it. I tripled the run length by relocating the control box.

I'll throw an ammeter on the wires when winching to see what kind of amps I am pulled and see if I'm playing with fire.
 
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Update on the not reeling in issue. I replaced a single bad solenoid for $17 as a temporary fix until I get motivated to upgrade to an albright. I will also swap out the F1, F2, and A cables down the line to larger gauge.

I used this cheap solenoid to get me going:

Standard Motor Products SS581 Solenoid​

 

1911

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I have the harbor freight crimper and I threw together some 4 Ga line on there for the moment. I definitely think it's too small for the task.

How many amps run between the solenoid and the motor? All 400 amps at max pull?

The Overland Journal did a really nice winch comparison maybe 10 years ago; it used to be available online but last time I tried my bookmark didn't work. But they actually measured how many amps the various winches drew at various times, and pulled heavy loads with them to failure. It was way more than just an advertisement for winches. At any rate, they tested a new 50th anniversary 8274, and as I recall it pulled in excess of 400 amps (425 if I recall correctly?) at start-up and pulled 200-250 amps continuously when pulling.
 

1911

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Update on the not reeling in issue. I replaced a single bad solenoid for $17 as a temporary fix until I get motivated to upgrade to an albright. I will also swap out the F1, F2, and A cables down the line to larger gauge.

I used this cheap solenoid to get me going:

Standard Motor Products SS581 Solenoid​


I'm not familiar with that make and model, but per my last post just above this one, you want a contactor that is rated for 400-500 amps momentarily, and at least 200 amps minimum for several minutes of continuous service.
 
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@Randy88FJ62 : Regarding the O-rings on the brake shaft and the freespool lever/knob: Did you find a standard AS568 O-ring size for those? What seal was leaking? Was that one you replaced with a warn part or an aftermarket part?
 

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