Random 100 Semi-Tech Chat Thread (1 Viewer)

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It would NEVER sell here. Nobody would buy a stripped LC for the cost of a lucious and loaded Sequoia.

That's the theory that everyone says for why we don't have 'em over here. But when you have Rubi's that spec out in the mid 30's I would think you could move a base LC at the same price point. After all, what are they selling the 105's for overseas? I doubt it's $65k! And it's not like Toyota would need to create a new vehicle. As long as it meets DOT...
 
That's the theory that everyone says for why we don't have 'em over here. But when you have Rubi's that spec out in the mid 30's I would think you could move a base LC at the same price point. After all, what are they selling the 105's for overseas? I doubt it's $65k! And it's not like Toyota would need to create a new vehicle. As long as it meets DOT...

So a URJ200 is $70K and you think it could be stripped down to sell for $30K...are you serious? Sure...without a motor or drivetrain. :)
 
So a URJ200 is $70K and you think it could be stripped down to sell for $30K...are you serious? Sure...without a motor or drivetrain. :)

Gosh, I thought we were talking about the equivalent to a 105's. GX-R / Gunney... any input on how much those brand new 105's are going for over in the sandpit?
 
Gosh, I thought we were talking about the equivalent to a 105's. GX-R / Gunney... any input on how much those brand new 105's are going for over in the sandpit?

The 105 is discontinued. It was only available for a few years in select markets and through Toyota Gibraltar.
 
Geez...I can't believe I agree with Shotts...just this one time OK :flipoff2::flipoff2:

No way, even if Toyota committed the millions upon millions of dollars to bring, for example, the 76-Series Workmate to the USA, would they sell enough to make it a sound business decision. Just think about the ramp up costs Toyota would incur from dealer sales and service training, parts inventory, DOT/NHTSA compliance, smog, etc. MILLIONS!

FYI: A new Toyota 76-Series Workmate starts at around $59,000 AU! Starts at!

2010 Toyota Landcruiser 70 series Wagon Road Test and Review Page 1 of 3 | Reviews | Prices | Australian specifications
 
I guess my thought process is:

a) there are over 250,000 LC's produced annually. Only 2% of those come to the US. Granted, it's impossible to tell from this how many are 70's, Parados, etc.

TOYOTA LAND CRUISER Data Library

b) the 'luxury SUV' features have to consume a significant amount of cost. strip it to the bones and it will cost way less. After all, a base Tundra is half what a fully loaded Tundra is.

not sure what extra training would be required as the vehicle is already in the US. there may be extra parts support, but the supply chain is already in place. I could be completely wet, but it doesn't seem to be that big of a stretch to think we could see a stripped LC in the mid 30's. If a Tundra can start at $24k (and they're only making roughly 100k of those), one would think an extra $11k could get a base, trail ready LC.

Or to approach it differently, one would have thought you could have made a cheap FJC using an LC roller for a base and capitalized on the economy of scale.
 
There simply isn't the market for it. Toyota makes trail editions and jeep makes rubicons to be able to sell an offroad image, but the vast majority of their models don't have those options.
 
OK...OK....

To get back to the tech chat and a somewhat dump question.....

Embarrassingly to admit, I have never cleaned my engine compartment or any auto engine compartment for that matter. Nor I have I ever been shown the correct way to do so. When I worked in an engine room on a ship we would just spray everything down with fire hoses. What methods do you use? I saw a couple of post in the 80's section about spraying everything with simple green, let it soak, then a low pressure rinse. Should I disconnect the battery first? both batteries? Thanks!
 
just a few comments now that i've seen that my post is moved here.
Try and buy a factory turbo diesel IFS 100 series GXL in Oz for less than $30k and you are dreaming. The 2nd hand market for them has actually increased in value, mainly because of the initial issues with the 200 series diesel.
checkout the lcool.org forums for info there.

also, there was a comment about 20" blinging of the 100...there is an option for 22" forged wheels for the Tundra...from the factory. $6k extra from memory. Maybe less...
enough said
peter
 
OK...OK....

To get back to the tech chat and a somewhat dump question.....

Embarrassingly to admit, I have never cleaned my engine compartment or any auto engine compartment for that matter. Nor I have I ever been shown the correct way to do so. When I worked in an engine room on a ship we would just spray everything down with fire hoses. What methods do you use? I saw a couple of post in the 80's section about spraying everything with simple green, let it soak, then a low pressure rinse. Should I disconnect the battery first? both batteries? Thanks!
no one???
 
should be fine, I've done exactly that in the past. Dont use high-pressure like a power washer or something.
 
As far as washing goes, I always try to protect the alternator, fuse blocks, etc. with plastic bags or aluminum foil to prevent cleaner or excess water getting in there. No sense in taking chances.
 
And don't spray cold water on hot metal/engine! Make sure the engine has cooled down to warm...
 
I use the high pressure at the carwash for my engine compartment. I hold the wand about 3-4 feet from the engine and the pressure is greatly reduced by the time it hits anything. I still have my plastic cover on so I'm not too worried about where I spray. There is really not that much in the engine bay that you should avoid, I agree don't use high pressure at close range unless you know what you are spraying. No need to disconnect the battery, I use the "high pressure wash" setting followed by the "high pressure rinse" setting. Occasionally if things start looking gnar I'll hit it with simple green or engine-brite. When I do that I always to it at the car wash because they capture the water and filter it.

I agree with letting the truck cool, I usually make the engine compartment my last stop after a 10-20 minute wash if I'm not washing the truck at home.

We have used this method on dozens of fleet trucks and personal vehicles with zero issues. There is no need for plastic bags or masking things off.
 
Does this look like a blown shock? Just noticed it today
IMG-20110917-00474.jpg
 

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