Random 100 Semi-Tech Chat Thread (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I was doing some research on air filters for the 100 series. I'm looking to replace the oem one with either a K&N or and AFE performance filter. Can anyone tell me which one is better?

if you're going to be going offroad now, stick with stock. Those oiled filters will get completely caked with dirt in no time, while the stock filter you can just knock out. I've had the full K&N system, the drop in filter and the toyota ones. I like the toyota stuff now, simple & reliable.
 
Oiled filters are fine for carbs and mostly on road but in lots of dust and stuff they cake and also some of the oil ALWAYS gets on the Mass Airflow Sensor causing it to need cleaning....I would stick with stock or a non oiled quality filter. I happen to use the AMSOIL filters which for our rigs is a WIX if not mistaken last time I changed mine but a good high quality filter is what I would stick with....just my two cents.

There is always a trade off between MORE FLOW and MORE FILTERING....K&N tries to make up for the filtering part by using oils to help CATCH airborne contanimants...

I would be more concerned with sand and other particles getting into my engine than increasing HP by 1 or 2....that is why if want the best filtering I would stick with Toyota parts....best compromise I would say the AMSOIL or WIX.

As for AFE...a lot of my buddies would have to put a slip of panty hose or pre-filter on them to keep fine dust and water out when offroading...flow a lot of air but not as protective of contanimants.
 
Last edited:
if you're going to be going offroad now, stick with stock. Those oiled filters will get completely caked with dirt in no time, while the stock filter you can just knock out. I've had the full K&N system, the drop in filter and the toyota ones. I like the toyota stuff now, simple & reliable.

thanks loud, I think I'll just replace my air filter to another oem filter, it's really dusty already
 
I run 07 tundra alloy lugs, they replaced my key'd lugs. When I ordered them the part number was for the tundra. So I'm assuming they are the same pitch/thread since I worked on mine.

On the sluggish-ness part, when I turn onto my street there is a steep hill and the LC is usually in second gear when I turn, I just jab the throttle a little and it kicks down to first and it scoots right up it. On long hills I put in in 2nd, just play with the shifter and see where/when you need to force the trans into a lower gear. I get tired of excessive skinny pedal getting up longer hills, I throw it in 2nd and off she goes.

Thanks 2000UZJ, my truck still moves when I floor it, or downshift with the 285's but it's just way slower than it was before. I don't dare pass slow people climbing up a hill with the 285's on. They also seemed to hit an aerodynamic/friction wall when I get to about 55mph where a lot more throttle is required to accelerate, or maintain speed past that point, with the 18" alloys and stock tundra tires on there it effortlessly accelerates with very little throttle the whole way to 75. Not a problem if your truck's a dedicated trail rig, but mine's a daily driver that also gets used for long road trips.


Not sluggish with the 5 speed but MPG still suffer

You really don't feel any, or very little difference in acceleration and braking with your 5 speed? If so, I might need to look into picking up one of those new 100's despite the electronic gismos.
 
You really don't feel any, or very little difference in acceleration and braking with your 5 speed? If so, I might need to look into picking up one of those new 100's despite the electronic gismos.

The difference from stock to 35's was minimal IMO but keep in mind it was a 06 with the extra HP motor. I was able to pulled a ~5000# boat up 6-7% grade without issue except for major loss in MPG.
 
with the 285's but it's just way slower than it was before. I don't dare pass slow people climbing up a hill with the 285's on.

Must be a high-altitude Colorado thing. I seen litterally zero difference when going from stock to 33's back in 2001. Now with 35's I can pass on the highway just fine though you can feel the loss. (12* gearing loss)

When we visit Colorado I still can move it out up the uphill passing zones above Durango.
 
Thanks 2000UZJ, my truck still moves when I floor it, or downshift with the 285's but it's just way slower than it was before. I don't dare pass slow people climbing up a hill with the 285's on. They also seemed to hit an aerodynamic/friction wall when I get to about 55mph where a lot more throttle is required to accelerate, or maintain speed past that point, with the 18" alloys and stock tundra tires on there it effortlessly accelerates with very little throttle the whole way to 75..

I can get on the on ramp, accelerate normally up to 75-80mph and cruiser comfortable with 295's. I have never had an issue with a "aerodynamic/friction wall" passing. I have passed several cars on 2 lane mountain passes. The only major change I saw was stopping distance. I feel like I have to put the pedal down a lot more to get it to stop quickly. Even with fresh pads and rotors. Then again I live at 1400 feet rather than CO.
 
Got a new issue with the center arm rest OEM DVD/CD 6 disk changer. Rig is an '06 LX with 60k. Worked fine, started to skip, now the disk on the screen will flash but not play/read. I stuck a cleaner disk in. A DVD movie will play, with sound, but none of the audio CDs will.

Tips?
 
Must be a high-altitude Colorado thing. I seen litterally zero difference when going from stock to 33's back in 2001. Now with 35's I can pass on the highway just fine though you can feel the loss. (12* gearing loss)

When we visit Colorado I still can move it out up the uphill passing zones above Durango.

Once or twice the passes in CO are tolerable with 35s. When you're living there and going over the mountains all the time, 35s and stock gears just is not enjoyable.
 
Is slee the only place to get a diff drop kit? Thought I read somewhere that there is another option.
 
Someone else was making a copy of Slee's, can't remember who it was tho. It was orange . . . blargh.

I believe it was Bump It Off Road or that other place....

The Slee kit though is VERY nice, extremely well made, and includes everything you need. When you compare the stock diff cross member to the Slee dropped one you will think it can hold up a house!
 
Reviving our miscellaneous thread with this question:

Do all 100s, prior to ATRAC have rear lockers or was this an option?
 
The locker was optional on the LC, limited slip diff was standard on the LX, AFAIK.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom