Ran accross a 76 40. What's it worth? (1 Viewer)

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Nov 6, 2005
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What do you cruiserheads think a 1976 FJ40 is worth?

Details:

Arizona home..... almost rust free (small amount of rust showing on sill under rear doors)

99% stock. Cheap after market wheels/tires & fender flares added.

Hard top on... but have soft top also.

Has sat for 10 years

Unmolested: has been repainted (amateur work), rear flares have been added.

Has approx. 108K miles

Condition of engine? Not running. Current owner put a new/used 2F in 10 years ago, but white smoke blue out the tail pipe after 20 minutes of running (head gasket?) They shut it down and have not started it since.

Has vents and knobs on dash for A/C. Could not see any other A/C stuff (compresser,dryer,etc...) under hood.

Body: no major dents...there are scratches and the paint is faded (orginally smurf blue).

Any comments appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

KB
 
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You could phrase this differently:
Rusty-the rear sill is a bitch to change out. Who knows what the fender flares are hiding

Did not run for 10 years, therefore all the grease/seals are dried out and brittle

has been repainted-what does the new paint hide?

108k and needed a new engine? very suspicous. Also, the 'new' engine seems a hack job, since it is not running.

76 did not come with AC ever. so where do the knobs come from? what else has been messed with? electrical mess?

Body is scratched.

just to play devils advocate :D

I think it is not worth much at all, maybe 1.5k, if there REALLY is little rust.
 
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How bad do you want a cruiser and how much do you have to spend??

It's worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it. That sounds vague, but it's the truth.

Buy it! Sounds like a fun project. :flipoff2:
 
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Sounds a lot like mine. I paid 1500. But it was almost completely stock. Nothing hidden or painted over and the only thing swapped out was the distributor and carb, which I didn't know about until after I joined MUD.

The PO swore it ran fine when he parked it. The old "All it needs is a battery" story line. Yeah, right partner. It had a dead engine which I replaced and the transfer case bearings were frozen with rust but a rebuild solved that problem. The upholstery went south quickly as soon as I started using it, which I assume means it was a little rotten from sitting.

But other than those things it's a damn fine truck. If I could just leave it alone instead of making all the other "upgrades" I think I want I would probably be a happy man!
 

Poser

Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
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1K max...
 

Poser

Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
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Please elaborate martin....
 
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Poser said:
Please elaborate martin....


The last FJ40 I saw for sale for $1000 was:

A) Completely and thoroughly rusted and not running
B) Ten years ago
C) Not 99% complete

D) All of the above

Correct answer: D

:)
 

Poser

Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
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They still exist, you simply cannot think that you are going to find it easy, or that is it going to come up and knock on your door....ten-plus years of searching eh? The last five 1979 and later 40's that I have purchased were all running, driving trucks in various conditions and the most expensive truck was 300.00us.



I would be very hard pressed to spend more than a grand on a Land Cruiser with a junk engine and a body that is cut and has rust...but to each their own.




As others have stated, this is going to need some mechanical issues addressed, the engine for starters, along with anything else that could be an issue since the truck has sat idle for ten years. (Hydraulic systems, (clutch and brake) primarily) Hopefully, it was not out in the sun, as the Arizona sun is pretty unforgiving to any plastic exposed. If there is rust in the back section, it is not likely that the truck is originally from that area, but it could have had dirt/mud get packed into that channel, and start the rotting process.


At the end, this all is going to come down to how much money you want to lay out to have a running, driving truck. Some folks have more money than others and can afford to pay what I would consider too much for a truck and continue to pour money into it, and not really thinking twice about it. Most folks are not set up to operate that way. Still others have mechanical skills, so they do not have to lay out the cost for labor in addition to parts, which no matter what your fiscal position, are not going to be inexpensive by any stretch of the imagination.


There are folks that have spent three grand on a running, driving truck, and are happy with that. You could easily eclipse that figure, and still not have oil in the engine or fuel in the tank, or a realistic end in sight to the issues that need to be addressed.


Figure out what you can afford. Not with just the initial purchase, but annual maintenance costs, and any upgrades you want to make, and stick to a number. Look at A LOT of different trucks. Educate yourself about the differences in years, silly idiosyncrasies with certain years, where they rot out, and the costs of upgrades or restorations, depending on your intended use. Realize that spending 10K+ on a truck does not in any way make it any more mechanically or physically sound than the one you are looking at right now that does not run and has rust.



Good luck!


-Steve
 
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If I had to trailer a 40 away and there wasn't something really rare or special about it, I'd probably start with an offer around $500. You really have some work ahead of you to make this thing streetable. It's not original and unmolested if it has an amature paint job in bad condition, a swapped in blown motor, and odd knobs on the dash that didn't come from the factory. Actually it's very molested, it just hasn't been lifted yet. If you can get it under a grand and it doesn't work out you can recoupe most of that on the hard top and doors if you have a spot to park it and part it out.
 
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Outstanding advice, Poser. :beer:

I might add to not let geography add much initial purchase cost to a Cruiser. Just because a Cruiser is sitting rust free in the Rust Belt doesn't make it worth a lot more than what a southwest/California buyer would pay. Unless, maybe, it's delivered from out of state.
 

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