Raised panel (used as cabinet door) problem
- Thread starter WarDamnEagle
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- Thread starter
- #22
You would have to see the arrangement on the other side but basically it's an L shaped unit (roughly 6' by 6'). There is a sink with double doors on the immediate left of the corner (standing on the other side of the cabinet) and a bank of narrow drawers on the right of the corner followed by a built-in Beverage center. There wasn't room to access the corner with a corner lazy susan or anything so it was either access is from under the sink, leave it dead, or come up with something clever from the front.
The bar is in a home theatre room. Theatre to the front, bar and card table at the back. We thought it would be a good storage place to store board games, poker chips, etc. and never intended it to be opened on a daily basis. The other panels are fixed.
I've attached a plan view (if it will show).
You're right he might prefer the look of the redesigned rail.
However, a properly sized (for the wood thickness) and installed soss hinge will not stress the wood. They come from 3/8" on up. I have installed them on countless 3/4" doors, also as far up as 1 3/4" material.
In this application, there is very little stress on the wood or the hinge, because of the bottom mount and limited opening. Soss hinges' weakest points are in side mounting and the "hanging" weight pulling down on them, and since they will open so far (180 degrees), more stress the more you open it. The solution in side mounting is to use more hinges.
I usually clamp wood on either side of the stile/rail while mortising for soss, to keep the wood from splitting, no matter what thickness the material is.
They don't work well on man made materials.
The door could be reworked to create a hinged panel. However, you would then see a reveal (gap) around the panel as it would essentially become an inset door within the original door's frame. That is a pretty creative solution.
Although not as technologically advanced as the European hinges, a good ol' piano hinge could easily be installed at the bottom and a simple ball catch could take care of the top. The hinge would likely be slightly thicker than the current door reveal so you might need to joint 1/16" off of the bottom.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=144&rrt=1
- Thread starter
- #28
The problem with a piano hinge is it would have to be installed with the joint part of the hinge showing. Otherwise it won't work in this application. The door rework suggestion would work as well but as you say, probably no way to make it look exactly like the other raised panels in the end.
Soss hinges ordered. I'll post some pics when I'm done.
- Thread starter
- #31
I realize the OP has ordered the hinges. However, if the magnets are an option then some other options would be KEKU push fit fasteners or panel Z-clips. I've used both of these many times.
Cabinet hardware from Accuride drawer slides to Blum door hinges by Specialty Supplies
Monarch Z Clips | Panel Clips
- Thread starter
- #33
Thanks. I thought about magnetic latches and other types such as the ones you linked but the wife said she would prefer part of the door remain attached if possible. I'm going to give the hinges (at bottom) and magnetic latches (at top) a try. I can always remove the hinges and just go with 4 latches of some variety if they don't work.
- Thread starter
- #36
LOL; nice spray paint.
If I fixed the frame of the raised panel then I wouldn't need to 86 the bar. The panel would easily clear. It wouldn't be an easy task to modify the existing panel though.
My point is that you went to a lot of trouble designing the cabinets. Why not do a custom foot rail that matches the bar stools and detailing from the cabinet facade? The brass foot rail anchors look out of place and don't match any of the detailing of the wood work. Also, every time you tilt the door open to access the game storage, the front of the door will hit the rail. I like giving you a hard time because you asked.
Why not make the outer frame permanently attached and just have the inset panel open on some sort of hidden hinge.
Make a movable jamb piece in place where the hinges would normally attach to the cabinet box. This jamb piece would be attached to the cabinet box so as to swing outward and up, placing the door panel above the foot rail when opened. The door panel could then be swung open, clearing the footrest.
Hard to describe but two metal straps approx. 2-3 inches long1/16" thick, with holes drilled in each end would be the swing arms. One swing arm strap would be installed at the top and bottom of this new movable jamb piece. Top hole of each strap would have a pivot screw attaching it to the cabinet box. The lower hole in each strap would have a pivot screw securing it to the movable jamb piece. The hinges would be attached to the door as usual, and attached to this pivoting jamb instead of the cabinet box.
As you pulled the door open, it would pivot upward clearing your foot rest. Once clear, it would swing fully open. Just be sure it extends outward enough to clear the counter top overhang.
If you can understand this,
I'd try it.....
Hard to describe but two metal straps approx. 2-3 inches long1/16" thick, with holes drilled in each end would be the swing arms. One swing arm strap would be installed at the top and bottom of this new movable jamb piece. Top hole of each strap would have a pivot screw attaching it to the cabinet box. The lower hole in each strap would have a pivot screw securing it to the movable jamb piece. The hinges would be attached to the door as usual, and attached to this pivoting jamb instead of the cabinet box.
As you pulled the door open, it would pivot upward clearing your foot rest. Once clear, it would swing fully open. Just be sure it extends outward enough to clear the counter top overhang.
If you can understand this,
I'd try it.....
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