Rainwater leaks to the passenger side when AC air circulation from outside (1 Viewer)

[jeffKerala]

rain water leaks to my passager side when the AC air circulation from outside, i checked both the water leaks only when circulation from outside.
what do i need to check ? any gasket for a cowl?
Thanks

 

[2001LC]

No gasket or seal around outside vent cowl. Water can get into HVAC from directly above fan (LH hand drive USA model). However, this takes very very heavy down poor (rain). Additionally, the windshield side molding and or lower molding missing/removed. Which with molding missing, water can enter at high volumes and rate than normally allowed to. That coupled with debris such as leaves in fender well drain cavity. Which cavity is between door and tire. This fender cavity is where water from windshield area drains to. The fact fresh air or circulating selected. Only makes a small difference. As the door that closes when circulation air use, is foam rubber. Water will flow through the foam, just slower.

PS foot well water, during HVAC AC use:

Most often the issue is clogged HVAC drain and or face plate door seal has gone bad.

The bottom of the HVAC filter area (some do not have HVAC filter). Is a cavity that fills with water from condensation. The cavity is there, in filter or no filter HVAC units. Cavity has a drain, that may get clogged. The face plate to this area has a seal, that goes bad with age.

Seach water on PS foot well, HVAC filter replace or installing and or modification. You'll find many links that well help you understand the system better.

 

[jeffKerala]

No gasket or seal around outside vent cowl. Water can get into HVAC from directly above fan (LH hand drive USA model). However, this takes very very heavy down poor (rain). Additionally, the windshield side model and or lower modeling missing/removed. Which with model missing, water can enter at high volumes and rate than normally allowed to. That coupled with debris such as leaves in fender well drain cavity. Which cavity is between door and tire. This fender cavity is where water from windshield area drains to. The fact fresh air or circulating selected. Only makes a small difference. As the door that closes when circulation air use, is foam rubber. Water will flow through the foam, just slower.

PS foot well water, during HVAC AC use:

Most often the issue is clogged HVAC drain and or face plate door seal has gone bad.

The bottom of the HVAC filter area (some do not have HVAC filter). Is a cavity that fills with water from condensation. The cavity is there, in filter or no filter HVAC units. Cavity has a drain, that may get clogged. The face plate to this area has a seal, that goes bad with age.

Seach water on PS foot well, HVAC filter replace or installing and or modification. You'll find many links that well help you understand the system better.

any gasket inside the vent cowl? mine is a 105, i sealed the HVAC unit using some gasket maker.no leaks from there

 

[2001LC]

any gasket inside the vent cowl? mine is a 105, i sealed the HVAC unit using some gasket maker.no leaks from there

I can only speak for left hand drive 100 series. I'll repeat: No gasket or seal around outside vent cowl!

If you doubt me. Take off molding under windshield and look.
Also pull your HVAC motor and look up through it. While looking up, press button fresh & circulate. You'll see the foam door open and close.

It's tunnel Stright up. At the top is a lip that stick up 1" or 2". If water fills the area above higher than lip. Water will flood into tunnel. It makes no difference HVAC sit to fresh or circulate.

i sealed the HVAC unit using some gasket maker.no leaks from there

"Did you clean the HVAC drain, while sealing the face plate!

 

[jeffKerala]

"Did you clean the HVAC drain, while sealing the face plate!

I didn't clean the HVAC, I didn't see any debris so

It's tunnel Stright up. At the top is a lip that stick up 1" or 2". If water fills the area above higher than lip. Water will flood into tunnel. It makes no difference HVAC sit to fresh or circulate.

can you share a picture of that area for better understanding?

mine got a right hand drive 105

 

[jeffKerala]

But after checking the schematics i don't know if it's necessary, my model didn't come with the molding that i marked in the attached picture. but after my model, Toyota makes molding partnumbers

7554360020 left and right​

 

[2001LC]

any gasket inside the vent cowl? mine is a 105, i sealed the HVAC unit using some gasket maker.no leaks from there

I assume you removed face plate of HVAC, to seal it with gasket maker (AKA FIPG). Which while face plate off. You can see where water pools, and where drain hole is at back of. Unless you have HVAC filters, the bottom where water pools, is always dirty. Even then is dirty.

Even ones with filter I clean the drain. Which is easier to do in filtered system. As we just remove filter door, insert shop vacuum hose. Then go into engine bay and use shop air to blow into drain hose coming out fire wall. Forcing debris back into HVAC cavity pooling area and on into shop vacuum.

But after checking the schematics i don't know if it's necessary, my model didn't come with the molding that i marked in the attached picture. but after my model, Toyota makes molding partnumbers

7554360020 left and right​

View attachment 3343109

Now this is very likely your leak. But has little to do with HVAC.

I assume you circled the correct missing moldings. Which is just a thin strip, that is an inserted into side molding, which is to cover side moldings (4 each side) rivets.

With those small molding strips (about 1/2" w x 24" long, removed/missing. It easier to look to see if the 4 rivets (often installers use screws) are there on each side. Also note if molding on correct.

I often find installers have messed up the install of side molding:
Leaving out some or all rivets, and holes in the side (A) pillar open. This allows air and water in holes. HVAC on circulating, has very little effect here. Other than if HVAC on, set to allow fresh outside air in. This creates air pressure in cabin, when blow fan on. The higher the speed of HVAC fan set to, the higher the cabin pressure. The pressurized air in cabin, would flow out the holes. This may reduce water entry (air dame) at holes in A pillar.

These A pillar leaks must be stopped, ASAP. The water often runs down into electronics, Junction box and grounds. It can cause a lot of strange electrical issues.

Look to see if any open holes in A pillar. Also be alert to new holes drilled. Windshield installers, all too often, misalign molding. Then factory "A" holes do not line up with molding. They then drill and or glue down molding. This can leave open holes through or behind molding, in "A" pillar

I have about 200 GB of picture on my PC. Another ~200 GB of videos on YouTube. Let's look close for any "A" pillar or windshield seal leaks, for now.

This link will help you understand windshield leak. Also look in my Master thread found in my signature line link. There you'll see a subcategory "Windshield."

Bye Bye to The King: Windshield rust repair ++

Well I can't believe I sold The King (2001LC Thunder Cloud NO NAV ), He's be with me near 14 years and has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever had the pleasure of owning & driving. When I bought it, I ask at the Toyota parts counter; "what part or parts are you seeing purchased the most...

forum.ih8mud.com

No molding, factory holes in "A" pillar for side molding rivets, can be seen (zoom in).

Molding you circled as missing cutaway view.

Your Circled insert molding not installed over rivets of side molding.

Insert molding installed over rivets of side molding.

Windshield and all molding in place.

 

[2001LC]

Post picture of your molding and "A" pillars. So I can see what's going on. We can come back to HVAC later, if need be.

 

[jeffKerala]

I assume you removed face plate of HVAC, to seal it with gasket maker (AKA FIPG). Which while face plate off. You can see where water pools, and where drain hole is at back of. Unless you have HVAC filters, the bottom where water pools, is always dirty. Even then is dirty.

Even ones with filter I clean the drain. Which is easier to do in filtered system. As we just remove filter door, insert shop vacuum hose. Then go into engine bay and use shop air to blow into drain hose coming out fire wall. Forcing debris back into HVAC cavity pooling area and on into shop vacuum.


Now this is very likely your leak. But has little to do with HVAC.

can you show me a picture of where to pump the air?

I assume you circled the correct missing moldings. Which is just a thin strip, that is an inserted into side molding, which is to cover side moldings (4 each side) rivets.

With those small molding strips (about 1/2" w x 24" long, removed/missing. It easier to look to see if the 4 rivets (often installers use screws) are there on each side. Also note if molding on correct.

I often find installers have messed up the install of side molding:
Leaving out some or all rivets, and holes in the side (A) pillar open. This allows air and water in holes. HVAC on circulating, has very little effect here. Other than if HVAC on, set to allow fresh outside air in. This creates air pressure in cabin, when blow fan on. The higher the speed of HVAC fan set to, the higher the cabin pressure. The pressurized air in cabin, would flow out the holes. This may reduce water entry (air dame) at holes in A pillar.

I checked the molding and contacted the guy who did the windshield, the screws u mentioned are there, not revite, he said the screws are fitted with glass fixing paste to make it leakproof.
checked both sides, got 4 screws on each side

 

[jeffKerala]

here is the images

 

[2001LC]

It will be best, if you read links I provided above.

Toyota recommends plastic coated aluminum rivets only. Screws should not be use, as they cut into paint, result in rust.

"Paste" (AKA: Glue or Black poly). should not be use on side molding. Factory uses double side tape, on roof portion of side molding.

Ask your installer: If he drilled new holes for the screws?
New holes should not be drilled in side molding or "A" pillar.

Looking at where tab/end of roof portion of side molding, its positioned looks high. Which indicates your installer set in side mold with "paste" (AKA: Glue, back poly), in wrong position (holes not lined up). It's very like molding did NOT line up with factory "A" pillar rivet holes. So he then drilled new holes, to place in his screws. If so, there are 4 factory hole, that are open on each "A" pillar, under the side molding. Water should and will run under the side molding and enter the holes.

Side molding roof end proton, aligned correctly.

 

[2001LC]

If you look close at glass, along side molding. You should see 4 black dots etched in glass. These 4 dots should line-up with the 4 holes in the molding "screws".

 

[2001LC]

can you show me a picture of where to pump the air?


I checked the molding and contacted the guy who did the windshield, the screws u mentioned are there, not revite, he said the screws are fitted with glass fixing paste to make it leakproof.
checked both sides, got 4 screws on each side

Search ih8mud, for AC drain. You see many pictures, also drain hose extenders & diverters.

He should not use "paste" on side molding, nor screws.

 

[jeffKerala]

It will be best, if you read links I provided above.

Toyota recommends plastic coated aluminum rivets only. Screws should not be use, as they cut into paint, result in rust.

"Paste" (AKA: Glue or Black poly). should not be use on side molding. Factory uses double side tape, on roof portion of side molding.

Ask your installer: If he drilled new holes for the screws?
New holes should not be drilled in side molding or "A" pillar.

Looking at where tab/end of roof portion of side molding, its positioned looks high. Which indicates your installer set in side mold with "paste" (AKA: Glue, back poly), in wrong position (holes not lined up). It's very like molding did NOT line up with factory "A" pillar rivet holes. So he then drilled new holes, to place in his screws. If so, there are 4 factory hole, that are open on each "A" pillar, under the side molding. Water should and will run under the side molding and enter the holes.


View attachment 3343780

Side molding roof end proton, aligned correctly.
View attachment 3343806View attachment 3343810

i checked the screws, two screws were not tight. anyway, I will change it to rivets.

also, i checked the leak today with pipe water, but this time it didn't leak , i don't know why

 

[2001LC]

You must confirm that no other holes are in the "A" pillar, hidden by side molding.