Rain gutter sealing solutions??? (1 Viewer)

[gumbydood]

I worked for a guy who took 15-passenger vans and modified them for transit use. Raised roofs, wheelchair lifts, walk-through doors, etc. We used a lot of sikaflex, in white, grey, and black. Good stuff... paintable, sandable, and sticks like, um, glue.

When I built my camper van, I used 3M 5200 to seal the junction between the fiberglass roof and the van body (I was gonna use sika, but I couldn't find it locally). I did that summer of 2001, then in 2002 I coated the exterior with "durabak" (think 60grit rhino-liner), including the entire top (and the 5200). I've had no leaks of any sort in these joints with over 35000 miles, sitting exposed to Pacific Northwest winters (think lots of rain), and now in Missoula for a winter.

I will likely use one or the other when I get around to exterior work on George, my 86 FJ.

Good luck
Eric

 

[AA996]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I had some A-pillar leakage from our recent rain here in Maryland. I took the roof gutter trim off and was astounded at the amount of dirt and gunk that had accumulated there over the years. No wonder this is a common location for rust. I used a very narrow chisel and a small hammer to get the old caulking out and plan on hitting the area with a Scotch Brite wheel followed by two coats of Rust Bullet, then sealing the gutters with 3M 5200 before painting the entire roof with gloss white epoxy. Hopefully this will cure the leaking, prevent any rust and will give us a cooler interior too. I plan on reinstalling the chrome trim as even though it is an enabler for rust, it looks better with it than without. I'll just make a habit of checking and cleaning it regularly.

Also I plan on using any left over Rust Bullet on the inside of my rear quarter panels. I looked inside them today and found about 1/4" of damp dirt and gunk in the left side. That's just a perfect breeding ground for corrosion and I want to coat the surface before rust has the chance to form. I'll also be draining the rear windshield washer reservoir as this may be the source of the moisture.

I'll try to take some pictures as I make progress. Wish me luck.

 

[GAS-A-LOT!]

PICS PLEAS!!!!

I need to know/see exactly where these areas are so I can see how bad mine are. Can someone say... Preventive maintenance.

Oh and one more thing. My roof rack (when loaded with 200lbs+) sinks/leaves imprint where the rack meets the gutter. I have this on my 80 and can bet that my 60 has it (will check) too.

Does that mean I need to refill my gutter?

 

[EastCanFJ62]

Is this a common problem with the 60 series? (just curious) My FJ62 is leaking in the same place, the passenger side rain gutter. I used a product called Seal-All and has worked so far...

Mark

 

[Cruiser62]

Same problem with mine, get tired of seeing drips out of the corner of my eye while driving. How do you get the sealant into the gutter along the pillar where it gets extremely narrow? Advice on what to use?

 

[saucebox]

To get the old out I started with a chisel then the wire wheel to clean it all up. Just make sure every thing is really dry. My right rail down the A pillar had some captured moisture and I had to redo that part. I used the 3M all around body sealer and will try to find the part number. Used a caulk gun and ran a bead all the way around then using a damp (gloved) finger just smoothed it out and "squished" it into the gutter/roof joint. Worked well. The hardest part was dealing with the little bit of rust starting at the rear above the left hatch hinge (where the two sections of the rail come together). Then got the color matched can of paint from CSK, masked and sprayed away. Used on tube of sealer and one small can of paint.

I can confirm that this works. To make the gloved part easier, pour laquer thinner into a bucket and continually dip the gloved hand (the one doing the smoothing) into the thinner. Keeps the crap from sticking to the glove (and if you're me--your hair, your clothes, your door handles, etc.).

 

[alaska60]

I just did this...... heres a thread of where I did this job and the products I used.....

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/318631-rust-fix-face-lift-10-days.html

HTH!

 

[Slowerthanu]

Here is what I am currently using to remove everything. On a high quality electric grinder like my Milwaukee, I turn the speed down to 2-3 for more control and go at it. The wheel will actually flatten out under speed and it will remove all rust, paint and sealant. My only word of caution is that it will remove metal if you stop and sit on a spot.

I'm gonna finish it off with 3M 5200 and then I'll using paint matched rattle cans to seal it up. My 62 is my camping and fun rig so I am not going for show quality.

On the 3m, a standard caulking gun will do the job.

 

[CMD82]

What's the best way to get get sealer down in the narrow sections in the A-pillar? It doesn't appear that the caulk tube will fit down there.

 

[monton]

This may sound like a dumb question, but do roof racks still fit on? I take it you guys are not filling the gutter, just sealing it. Correct?

 

[Slowerthanu]

What's the best way to get get sealer down in the narrow sections in the A-pillar? It doesn't appear that the caulk tube will fit down there.

I have not figured that out yet. I decided to yank and replace my windshield while I do the roof too. Who knows how bad it is in there.

 

[OlympiaFJ60]

This may sound like a dumb question, but do roof racks still fit on? I take it you guys are not filling the gutter, just sealing it. Correct?

No dumb questions. If done properly (not filled but resealed as you stated) roof racks will fit as original. There is no point in filling all the way out to the edge of the cutter, just the body seam of the roof to the sides.

 

[marsdendc]

Best tool for the job only $2.99

Here's the deal, I just did mine today and I happened upon the perfect tool for the job. I got the set in picture 1 from Checkers/Cragen/Oriley on the rack with all the el cheapo tools. The beauty of it is it only took 1/2 hour to remove the old stuff with this $2.99 scribe kit and an old flat head screwdriver. I used the one with the 90 degree tip on it and it gets deep into the seams. on the down slopes parts by the front doors it peeled it right out and a little bit of scraping removed the rest (picture 2). On the top rails I used it with the tip angled toward the outside of the rail. After scoring the old sealant a couple of times I followed up with the flat head and out it came (picture 3). A bit more time playing Dentist to get the scraps out and it was done. I followed up with a 2" wire wheel on a drill to rough up the surface and remove a couple of light rust spots. I hit it with some denatured alcohol, 2 coats of primer, and 2 coats of paint. I'm gonna let it sit overnight and then lay down some 3M 5200. As others have stated this stuff is awesome. I've used it for years to bond the top decks of a boats to the hull. This is the type of application this stuff is made for. I hope this helps!!

 

[JLH911]

3m all around body caulk is very high quality. Be sure to scape out ALL of the old caulk first. and seal away.


Dynosoar

How many of these tubes did you need to do the entire roof and a-pillars?

 

[Brock]

what he said.... make sure to take pics after wire wheeling is done and you have painted and such...and again when you lay down the goo in the gutters.

 

[meatloaf]

On the 3M 5200, I've read other posts where it is cheaper at Home Depot vs a marine shop, etc... Would it be the same sealant from one source vs the other, or should I just go to an auto body shop to get the sealer?

Thanks,
ML

 

[fliphkd778]

So my question is, I'm about to paint my truck and might do my gutters while I'm at it. I applied some 3M drip check a year ago over good factory stuff. Would you go back and pull all of it out for a fresh base? I chose to use 3M's Heavy drip check sealant,
"Heavy-based sealer especially designed for verticle seams. Heavier bodied consistancy. Up to 1/8 inch can be applied easily. This product weathers well and does not deteriorate under sunlight."
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...CEK3_nid=GSTN405H5ZgsXB20NJQ19WglLTDM7BX7QTbl

I have to do the A-pillar peaks anyway, they look like this...

 

[Spook50]

Here's the deal, I just did mine today and I happened upon the perfect tool for the job. I got the set in picture 1 from Checkers/Cragen/Oriley on the rack with all the el cheapo tools. The beauty of it is it only took 1/2 hour to remove the old stuff with this $2.99 scribe kit and an old flat head screwdriver. I used the one with the 90 degree tip on it and it gets deep into the seams. on the down slopes parts by the front doors it peeled it right out and a little bit of scraping removed the rest (picture 2). On the top rails I used it with the tip angled toward the outside of the rail. After scoring the old sealant a couple of times I followed up with the flat head and out it came (picture 3). A bit more time playing Dentist to get the scraps out and it was done. I followed up with a 2" wire wheel on a drill to rough up the surface and remove a couple of light rust spots. I hit it with some denatured alcohol, 2 coats of primer, and 2 coats of paint. I'm gonna let it sit overnight and then lay down some 3M 5200. As others have stated this stuff is awesome. I've used it for years to bond the top decks of a boats to the hull. This is the type of application this stuff is made for. I hope this helps!!

Hey that's a great idea using those scribes. Wouldn't you want to paint over the sealant though and not the other way around? Seems like that would conceal the sealant better.

 

[ProwlerDriver]

I recently did the 5200 treatment on mine. Taped it all off, used a wire wheel and the dental picks to remove all old sealant. 2 coats of primer laid on thick. Laid the 5200 down and smoothed it with a (gloved) finger. I bought the fast cure 5200 so it only took 24 hours to cure. (The normal stuff takes 7 days) Once cured had a spray paint color match can, put 3 coats down and then....

All the real thin spots of the 5200 started lifting. Awesome. So, I took an exacto knife and cut all the thin spots up to the bead. To prevent this i would just put a bead in not smooth it out, creating those thin spots. Also i would scuff up the primer before laying the 5200 down. Now it went fine, i relayed some paint, and clear coat and it looks good. Some overspray spots im trying to blend back in, where the paint i put on is thicker than the base, other than that, Im happy.

 

[PERUVIAN]

confused

so.. as mine drips as well..
The gutters are welded to the body and they seperate over time?
Or they are sealed and they seperate over time..
Or a third option?
Here it rains almost daily it seems.. so I do not want to dig away to find out when you knowedgable people can advise me..
Plus.. I will probably have to order a special sealant.. which is not available here..
Thanks
Todd