Radiator/Temp issues

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by sessions, Feb 12, 2009.

  1. sessions

    sessions

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    So just after doing a minor tune up(plugs, wires, dizzy cap & rotor, air filter, fuel filter and pcv valve) my 85 fj60 is running tons better and a little warmer than usual. I checked the cylinder block with an infrared temp gun and it read about 200 degrees, which I think is a normal operating temperature?
    The PO had the radiator repaired due to a split in a seam at the top of the rad and now it has officially sprung a few leaks from the repaired area. So I'm guessing it may be running hotter due to loss in pressure in the radiator? I've ordered a new radiator, cap, rad hoses and oil cooler hoses. Should that be it? I think the thermostat is working because it maintains the temp from raising more than half/three quarters on the stock temp gauge. I also plan to get better gauges to monitor temp, oil and volts when I can afford it. Any ideas or suggestions welcomed!!
    Thanks!!
     
  2. REKCUT

    REKCUT SILVER Star

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    Get the gauges now. You can get a oil and water temp combo for $40 and instal in a couple hours. You dont have to go with the most expensive set out there. Any kind of mechanical gauge is better than the factory ones. There is no way you can do any kind of diagnosis on your truck with information like "3/4 on the temp guage" You are much closer with the gun on the engine.
     
  3. sessions

    sessions

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    Yeah I know!
    What is the recommended running temperature of a 1985 FJ60?
    Is there anything else I should replace while I have the rad out, assuming the thermostat is in working order?
    How do you wire in aftermarket cluster gauges?
     
  4. REKCUT

    REKCUT SILVER Star

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    Mine runs at 191 once it warms up. Pulling long hills in hot summer weather I have seen it get up above 200 but as far as normal around town and trail running temps it sits at 191.

    I have a three gauge cluster that is mounted above the hood release pull. They are simple mechanical gauges and you run wires for the alt and water gauge, and a small tube for the oil. They old units unscrew from the engine and the new ones screw in.
     
  5. smkymntn

    smkymntn

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    I run about 200-215 after warmup, but I have a slightly hotter cam. X3 on the guages- gives you a great idea on whats going on. I have PSI, Water temp and oil temp. I went with electrical and definitly recommend mechanical as whenever I turn my heat on the electrical heat gauge goes up 20 degrees or more, turn the heat off comes right back down. Stock guage doesnt move at all.
     
  6. sessions

    sessions

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    Awesome! Thanks for the advice guys!!
    Is there a better mechanical gauge that is better than the others?....there are so many to choose from...
     
  7. goodol84

    goodol84

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    check out summit online. always heard good things about autometer. fairly priced too.
     
  8. 2mbb

    2mbb SILVER Star

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  9. sessions

    sessions

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    good call! THanks, I'll check out those gauges too!!
     
  10. sessions

    sessions

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    Water Pump, T-stat and fan clutch

    I just replaced the radiator and hoses....the damn thing leaks! After going back thru the hoses I found that I didn't get a few of them as tight as needed, so I solved a few there. I fired it up today and it leaks pretty bad, the radiator shop said it is the water pump and that while im in there to replace the t-stat and maybe the fan clutch if oil is found on the spring. The shop quoted me $225 for the water pump otd. I know that NAPA probably isn't the best way to go but all the parts are in and it's $160 otd for all three items. Any opinions from the powers to be??
    Thanks
     
  11. MYFJ62

    MYFJ62

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    Been there, done that...

    I just replaced the Tstat, fan clutch and water pump (as soon as I get a chance I will post up some interesting pics).

    But very quickly - do yourself a favour and replace with OEM parts - it will be much more $$ but well worth it in the end. I am not "a power that be" but the difference in size and build of the fan clutch - assumming the one that came off was infact the proper one for my rig - was about 1/2 that of the new OEM fan clutch. Like I said I will post up some pics when I get a chance.

    I did a lot of searching prior to the repair and the concensus seemed to be OEM all the way.

    j.
     
  12. Ducks

    Ducks

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    Go with OEM and do it once. You mean that all three OEM parts are $225, right? Because I think an OEM water pump is around $80 or so. I just replaced mine a couple of months ago. I don't remember the exact price but I know I didn't pay that much for a water pump. You might want to call Cruiserdan and get a better price. He gives a discount to people on 'MUD and I think shipping is free for orders over $100.
     
  13. sessions

    sessions

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    thanks for the advice guys. I'd love to go oem but the funds aren't there. Hopefully I won't need to do the clutch fan or the tstat so I'll be able to return them, however the water pump is a must. I went the NAPA route and will most likely regret it down the road but for now it works. I'll let ya know how it goes later tonight after I'm done.
    Thanks again!
     
  14. sessions

    sessions

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    Where does CruiserDan work? anyone got a number??
     
  15. NocalFJ60

    NocalFJ60

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  16. sessions

    sessions

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    Thanks NocalFJ60!! I've been wondering who this guy is and where to contact him...I returned all the parts to NAPA and bought from CruiserDan. Why not for $117 more...? :meh: I should have the parts in a business week and then will tear into it.
    I appreciate all the help from this site and the great members of it!! I should probably just have a build thread going...as this will be an ongoing project.
    By the way the water pump, fan clutch, t-stat and all gaskets shipped came to $277 vs $160 from NAPA.
     
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