Radiator situation in North America (1 Viewer)

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Mar 23, 2022
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Raleigh, NC
What is OEM radiator availability like nowadays for the 100 series?

I have what appears to be a leaking radiator which only started after flushing coolant. I suspect I disturbed something during the flush.

Dealership quoted me 917 CAD for the radiator from Japan with 6 weeks lead time. They said there are currently none in North America through Toyota.

Any other options in North America?

4D271DF2-58FE-421C-A3E7-4BFFC395F035.jpeg
 
Check out cruiserparts.net and oemgenuineparts.com. Just bout a new OEM radiator off of cruiserparts and I am sourcing all my hoses off of oemgenuineparts. There are also lots of threads about other maintenance you may want to consider if your budget allows.
 
Before you entertain purchasing from cruiserparts.net, I would advise reading through the threads concerning them here:
 
My Teq Crystal Ball Says : 🔮 ............


- your radiator cap is exactly directly above this new post-flush leak ,


- you did not install a new oem cap

- you have not or did not remove the current cap for a long while

- this intern is now the cause of your leak

- a white crystalize powder has and is present with the red oem Fluid u appear to be seeping


- the seeping leak is either coming from the water neck

or

- the overflow hose connections , no mini clamps clips were re-installed or it simply no longer seals from age and time

- lastly cruiserparts.net is the last place to source your parts , if you do not understand this , take this as a warning , u will get your feelings hurt and u will have major issues getting what u paid for at the end of the day


those are the facts .........
My apologies for bad info. I’m relatively new to the 100 world. Where is a good place to source most parts for the 100? I will cancel my order with cruiser parts if I’m not going to be receiving a genuine OEM radiator. My 100 (daily driver) is down and I’m bumming rides everywhere. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
I'm going on week 3 of a wait for my radiator ordered from Serra Toyota = may be some truth to none in North America at the moment
 
My Teq Crystal Ball Says : 🔮 ............


- your radiator cap is exactly directly above this new post-flush leak ,


- you did not install a new oem cap

- you have not or did not remove the current cap for a long while

- this intern is now the cause of your leak

- a white crystalize powder has and is present with the red oem Fluid u appear to be seeping


- the seeping leak is either coming from the water neck

or

- the overflow hose connections , no mini clamps clips were re-installed or it simply no longer seals from age and time

- lastly cruiserparts.net is the last place to source your parts , if you do not understand this , take this as a warning , u will get your feelings hurt and u will have major issues getting what u paid for at the end of the day


those are the facts .........
👆🏽This. Doesn’t look like you have a leaky radiator to me. Looks like you spilled coolant when filling the radiator back up. Or you didn’t put the cap on right.
 
I bought an OEM radiator in January from my local dealer and at that time there were something like 15 in the US, but none on the west coast, it had to come from the east coast distribution center. I wouldn't be surprised if those have all sold and they needed to wait for more to arrive from Japan.
 
I also assumed it’s the radiator cap since it is a JDM car I just bought and the radiator cap installed is not factory, in fact I already ordered a new oem one as well as the top reservoir hose and two little clips. I will try replacing that first and if I still see a leak then I will proceed with radiator replacement.

I found a shop in Canada which has one in stock for around 650 CAD.
 
Although it does seem like it could be leaking a bit I would take a day to clean all that up , top off tank, and run the engine for a bit to monitor for leaks before condemning the radiator.
 
Definitely looks like some spilled coolant after the flush you were referring to. Doesn't appear to be any actual liquid leaking anywhere.
 
I lost the entire reservoir amount after a day driving though… from max line to low line. There wasn’t much sign of a leak around the cap, but it does smell pretty strong when fan is running and there seems to be some pooling at the interface along the plastic metal interface at bottom of radiator as in my photo.
 
i spoke to my commercial rep here at my local dealer home base i get my usa stuff from :

- he said at 10:21 AM EST today , only 2 hours ago :


: 16400-50360

- 7 in the USA


- all slated for orders


- 171 in-transit from japan , NO ETA

- this means stuck on a boat / ship


- or

- stop sale for un-known reasons ?



that all means find one any way u can oem new or substitute

- also , NEVER NEVER shop at cruiser parts . net u WILL loose they will win , sorry to be brutal but i have in the past been there victim too ! :confused:

that is all ........




- only 100 series cap i offer , special non-usa Saudi-Spec region high heat rated heavy duty , alloy silver metal is thicker thn ANY cap u can source here in usa dealer

GENUINE NipponDenso JAPAN real McCoy

- NOTE the ND logo on the ear and 0.9 .......


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View attachment 2980409



I already ordered the OEM North American radiator cap but thanks for the information on the radiator availability!
 
I lost the entire reservoir amount after a day driving though… from max line to low line. There wasn’t much sign of a leak around the cap, but it does smell pretty strong when fan is running and there seems to be some pooling at the interface along the plastic metal interface at bottom of radiator as in my photo.
Depending on how much you flushed out the 2UZ could suck that overflow down as it pushes out air. Clean it, top it off, and monitor. If you lost an entire overflows worth of coolant I would think you'd see more liquid.

Radiator or other components could be busted I just think it's worth cleaning up and checking over while you search / wait for a new replacement.
 
For sure will wait a bit before ordering a new one, I was suspicious it might be burping as well but that seemed like too much to me, probably around 3 litres I would say?
 
For sure will wait a bit before ordering a new one, I was suspicious it might be burping as well but that seemed like too much to me, probably around 3 litres I would say?
In the res? I'm not sure the exact amount but it doesn't take much to get me from low to full line. I don't think it's 3 liters.

I had Toyota do my timing belt and some other crap and they didn't bleed it at all. I got it back full and it was at low after my drive home.

If your up for further investigation I would give this a shot. If you have rear heat, turn it on max temp. Same for your front heat, turn it up to max temp. Top off the res, go drive around for a bit getting the engine to some higher rpms. Let it sit overnight for a full cooldown and check in the AM. This sometimes has to be done 1-2 times. If you keep doing that and 3-4 times later the level keeps going down then yes, you have a leak or you're burning it up.
 
I lost the entire reservoir amount after a day driving though… from max line to low line. There wasn’t much sign of a leak around the cap, but it does smell pretty strong when fan is running and there seems to be some pooling at the interface along the plastic metal interface at bottom of radiator as in my photo.
Even if you do an excellent job of bleeding the system you can still loose that much after driving around for a few days. Check it every day for a few days and continue to top off. Coolant should stop disappearing after a few days. If it doesn't then you can start to investigate where it's going.
 
my SUPER HILUX SEMA Spec. concept vision build has a unique 2UZ-FE same as the Canada Spec. YAMHA-HAULER

i have YAMAHA tuning forks logos cast on firewall sides of both cylinder heads ...........

forged factory rods and pistons too


similar to the LAND cruiser japan spec. 2UZ-FE

the usa made 2UZ-FE is under built in many ways to cut cost corners ...........


my truck was a CKD and shipped to the USA from japan Tundra assy line and then hand assembled as a KIT so to speak ............

the land cruiser japan made 2UZ-FE is virtually bomb proof if properly maintained


sadly usa made ones are not so life span living long like ...........




View attachment 2980576View attachment 2980577


and this helps the OP how?
 

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