Radiator Seems to Have Finally Given Up the Ghost - Possible Split In Lower Tank (1 Viewer)

[Gretsch]

So got home tonight and noticed coolant on the garage floor. Got under the truck and see a drip coming of the radiator just below the over flow bottle. Thought maybe the bottle had split but I felt under it and cannot feel and coolant under it. I got under the truck again and notice the radiator seems to have a bead of coolant running along under it. The lower radiator hose seems moist on the outside of it. The truck has a slight lean to it so thought maybe coolant is leaking out of the hose and running the length of the lower radiator tank. I tightened the clamp a bit to make sure she was tight and sealed. Started the truck up and watched for leaks. I don't see any leaks from the lower hose but its still leaking on the drivers side of the radiator. I tried to see where coolant is collecting but with the fan shroud in place its hard to tell where its coming from. I took some video of the leak happening on the drivers side.



Seems like its coming from the weld on the corner of the tank. Not sure if its leaking down from elsewhere on the radiator and is just showing up at this seam or if this weld seam is part of how the lower tank is sealed and its cracked and leaking. There seems to be some coolant inside the fan shroud. Photo is not that great for illustrating but maybe someone can tell here.

Is this a common split area? I had this radiator hot tanked and cleaned about a year ago and its been rock solid until now. Should I just bite the bullet here and fetch a new radiator or try and have this one fixed? Looking at this one as a replacement.

CSF Radiator

Seems this one was still in good standing with the community as far as quality if memory serves. Any recent opinions on it? Not looking to go aluminum at this point if I can help it but will consider it if folks deem it a better option. Thanks in advance for the help here.

 

[Gretsch]

So poking around on the forum overnight it seems the CSF 2708 is still good with everyone aside from various instances of shipping damage and some defective cores. Also since that model seems to have the AT cooler in it, I wanted to again confirm that there is nothing I need to do with regards to plugging the cooler enter/exit ports. I believe @joebattle1 did this at some point on his 60 as illustrated in these quotes:

Cam, I just bought 2708 and you’re saying it’s all good not to plug those to open bottom holes? I’m in a late model 60 (85) fluid won’t come spewing out of those? They are a totally separate reservoir? Could it be used as a power steering cooler?

You got it, it’s a separate tube/cooler inside the bottom tank. It will only leak if defective.

So that's still the case? I probably won't use the cooler for PS in mine to prevent any chance of coolant ATF mix. Just want to confirm these are still quality units I'll get another 30 years out of.

 

[BlackCat]

Yes, the CSF is still a good choice. They seem to be the cheapest on Rock Auto. And no, you won’t get 30 years out of it. Probably somewhere around 15 years. Mishimoto aluminum is also another choice, they have a lifetime warranty. I had a Mishimoto in my old FJ62 and have one to install in my FJ60.
Both have trans coolers, so just cap the ports. Nothing else you need to do with them.

 

[Gretsch]

OK great, thanks for confirming. Guess they just don't make them like they used to. I think there was something you had to do with the aluminum to keep it from corroding the insides of the cooling system, ground strap or something. I'll prolly go with the CSF for now and see where it goes.

 

[BlackCat]

OK great, thanks for confirming. Guess they just don't make them like they used to. I think there was something you had to do with the aluminum to keep it from corroding the insides of the cooling system, ground strap or something. I'll prolly go with the CSF for now and see where it goes.

Yes, aluminum “should” be grounded and an non long life coolant used. CSF is a good choice and you’ll be just fine with it.

 

[Gretsch]

So I am thinking of letting the local Toyota dealer handle the replacement this time around. I got some stuff going at work and don't have a lot of time at the moment to mess with it. I have always wanted to test the waters on this dealer to do some work on my cruiser and this job seems simple enough they could do it without messing it up. Thought it might be a good way to ease into testing using them for doing work on it for times such as these where I just cannot get to it. Again seems like an easy enough job. I imagine the shop time will cost me a bundle (so I may decide otherwise) but wondering what folks think of a dealer being able to handle this simple of a job.

 

[micruz60]

It is an easy enough job for a dealer, and testing them this way could be money well spent.

I installed a CSF 2708 in the 60, back in 2000. Still doing fine, strictly distilled water with the coolant/glycol. It has a lifetime warranty sticker on it, the only drawback is the where the drain location is, and that drainplug is plastic.

 

[Gretsch]

the only drawback is the where the drain location is, and that drainplug is plastic.

Is it in a different place than the original? I seem to recall mine was plastic as well when I pulled it for hot tanking. From the photos I see of it, it all seems to be arranged the same as the one in my truck just with the additional ports for AT. Maybe my radiator is not original. But it definitely does not have the AT cooler bits on it so I always thought it was.

Also, should I have it pressure tested before install? Read in other posts that folks had issues with installing and having leaks immediately.

Does anyone know what the fitting size is for the AT cooler tank openings? I may try and find some kind of brass plug to close those up since I won't be using them.

I did talk to Toyota dealer and they said shop time would be $300 which seems to be about what I would expect. They said two hours labor for this (took me longer than that to get it out last time I did this, ) but I had no idea what I was doing and I doubt they do either. But I might try it just as a test. Hate the thought of someone else touching this truck but really could use a reliable shop for when I just don't have time. Only way to know is to try it I think.

CSF ordered and on its way. I am dead in the water until Wednesday.

 

[thecadefire]

FJ62 Radiator Removal (Full Write Up)

I dont have a ton of pictures but for everyone that doesn't have a FSM this should help you... You DO NOT have to discharge the refrigerant or mess with the AC Condensor!!!! Here are some things I would remove before you even start looking at the radiator: Remove: 1) Lower Skid Plate in front...

forum.ih8mud.com

I think I ordered the CSF when I replaced mine and I haven't had any issues so far. And the install and replacement is easy and didn't take much time at all.

 

[OSS]

The CSF 2708 is a good choice. Don't worry about getting special plugs for the lower tranny heat exchanger tank. You could just stuff a cork in them to keep insects out. But the female threads in the lower tank are 14mm X 1.5. You can probably find an exact plug at Summit Racing. I got the adapters there (for a PS cooler conversion).

 

[joebattle1]

So poking around on the forum overnight it seems the CSF 2708 is still good with everyone aside from various instances of shipping damage and some defective cores. Also since that model seems to have the AT cooler in it, I wanted to again confirm that there is nothing I need to do with regards to plugging the cooler enter/exit ports. I believe @joebattle1 did this at some point on his 60 as illustrated in these quotes:




So that's still the case? I probably won't use the cooler for PS in mine to prevent any chance of coolant ATF mix. Just want to confirm these are still quality units I'll get another 30 years out of.

Confirmed Robert. So far the CSF2708 has been just fine. I've now run it for about 3k miles. Had some running warm issues this summer headed to Tahoe but I think I was just asking alot of the ol girl pushing hard up Donner Pass with summer temps fully loaded with the fam, gear and canoe on top. No overheat just a touch warmer than normal. And I didn't bother plugging those two holes. I just ran it as is.

 

[micruz60]

Is it in a different place than the original? I seem to recall mine was plastic as well when I pulled it for hot tanking.


Also, should I have it pressure tested before install?

The drain is over on the passenger side, my original radiator had a brass petcock drain, same location. It just splashes over the frame rail, so I've MacGuyvered a plastic spout to redirect the coolant.

Pressure test before install cannot hurt, peace of mind.
Cheers

 

[Gretsch]

The CSF 2708 is a good choice. Don't worry about getting special plugs for the lower tranny heat exchanger tank. You could just stuff a cork in them to keep insects out. But the female threads in the lower tank are 14mm X 1.5. You can probably find an exact plug at Summit Racing. I got the adapters there (for a PS cooler conversion).

View attachment 2103856

Confirmed Robert. So far the CSF2708 has been just fine. I've now run it for about 3k miles. Had some running warm issues this summer headed to Tahoe but I think I was just asking alot of the ol girl pushing hard up Donner Pass with summer temps fully loaded with the fam, gear and canoe on top. No overheat just a touch warmer than normal. And I didn't bother plugging those two holes. I just ran it as is.

OK thanks all. Radiator should be here Wednesday. Still mulling over having Toyota put it in. Guy at the dealer gave me the standard "well we will look it over and see what it needs" schpeel. Save it dude, its good. I am sure they are gonna say I need all kinds of hoses replaced, even though it has brand new Toyota OEM from Beno and it needs every gasket replaced right now. The parts guys at this place are really good so hoping the service guys are equally competent. Again would like to have an option available for someone to work on it if I can't, but the thought of it freaks me out a bit. Still undecided here. Thanks again folks for the help.

 

[BlackCat]

OK thanks all. Radiator should be here Wednesday. Still mulling over having Toyota put it in. Guy at the dealer gave me the standard "well we will look it over and see what it needs" schpeel. Save it dude, its good. I am sure they are gonna say I need all kinds of hoses replaced, even though it has brand new Toyota OEM from Beno and it needs every gasket replaced right now. The parts guys at this place are really good so hoping the service guys are equally competent. Again would like to have an option available for someone to work on it if I can't, but the thought of it freaks me out a bit. Still undecided here. Thanks again folks for the help.

Tell them to just do the radiator and say you decline the MPI and to not waste their time looking it over at the time of write up. They’ll notate it on the repair order and it will release them from liability.

 

[Spike Strip]

Helps greatly to have a Radiator Pressure tester. Free rental from Autozone, with proper adapter. Pressurize the sys to 13 lbs (cold) and look for leaks. You'll be unhappy if the leak is not the Rad and you go to the trouble of replacing and it's something else, nearby ...

IF you have a local radiator repair shop that's well-regarded, and the current radiator is new-ish then it might be worth having it repaired (if it's the radiator), but either way, I've had a CSF for 10 years now and no issues. Quality HD Radiator.

 

[Gretsch]

Yes agreed on pressure testing. I am OK if I replace the radiator and this turns out to be something else but pressure testing is in the plan. The current radiator is AFAIK the original and got the truck almost 200K. I had it hot tanked and leak tested about a year ago. Its been good until now but replacing it is ok to me. The shop I took it to is OK to recondition them a bit but I think I talked to the owner at the time and he says he sort of got out of the 'repairing' of them some time ago. Normally I would be taking it over there to try and repair it. Its been in the truck 30+ years and done its time so I am good to replace it even if this turns out to be something else. I could not see anywhere else where the coolant is coming from other than that seam on the radiator in the video or maybe the lower radiator hose. I accidentally bent up the lower hose outlet in the radiator right after getting it back from the shop when I set it on the ground not paying attention. Had to take it back to the guy so he could bend things back but it never was the same. Seemed to seal OK but could just be a leak at the lower radiator hose because of the bent opening, in which case the replacement will be warranted.

The fact the coolant seems to come from behind the seam seems to indicate its gone to me. But not sure again if the seam there is a seal for the tank or just a welded plate to facilitate the mounting wings on the radiator itself. Does anyone know?

 

[Spike Strip]

Agree, sounds like time for a new Rad.

Too bad CSF quit making the specific unit for FJ60s...

@Racer65 ?

 

[Gretsch]

OK so finally got to getting after this job. Decided to do it myself because I am familiar with the process and hey its saving me $300. Got the radiator out with little issue. Went to remove the lower radiator hose and notice the lower pipe (from lower radiator hose up to water pump)was moving pretty freely. Checked and the little mount that gets bolted to something on the compressor bracket seems to have sheared off somehow. If you recall there is the bracket extending off the pipe. When you place the pipe in there the bracket lines up with some sort of threaded stud that seems to be coming down off the compressor bracket somehow. On mine that seems to be sheared off somehow and now the pipe is just held in place by the hoses. First I cannot seem to find a diagram illustrating where this stud comes from. It also seems to have some rubber bushing to the stud. Seems almost like the stud is encapsulated in rubber somehow, and the rubber has deteriorated to the point of splitting apart. Is this stud part of the compressor mounting, the engine mount, or the A/C idler pulley assembly. I have attached a photo but not sure how good it is at showing what I am talking about:

So you can see the gold nut there, and then immediately above it is the flat bracket coming off the water pipe. After that is this rubber bushing bit. Seems like this might be a real PITA to get to.

Secondly I would like to fix this if possible. If I were not to fix it however, how big a deal would this be with regards to the hoses? Would that pre-maturely wear them out allow the pipe to move free like that? As always thanks for any help here.

 

[Gretsch]

OK looking at this further, this seems to be a rubber bushing with two studs embedded into it one on each side facing opposite directions. I found a shot of this on the Interwebs to illustrate the part that is separated:

And one side of mine:

So you can see here its just a rubber bushing which seems simply threaded into the compressor mounting bracket on one side. Without taking the compressor off I cannot tell if this compressor bracket mounting has a nut on the compressor side of the bracket or if it simply threads into the bracket. I felt down in there but cannot feel anything that feels like a nut so thinking it just threads in.

Any ideas on part numbers for this bit, if the compressor has to come out to change the bushing out or can I tackle this at a later time. Still not sure the importance of having the pipe being mounted to this bushing. Is it fine to just be free hanging only by the hoses or should I correct this sooner rather than later? Seems there could be a potential risk of a hose pulling off but it seems as though this has been this way for some time and the hoses were a total whip to get off so I don't think they are going anywhere. Whats the experts say?

 

[Spike Strip]

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