Radiator Replacement (1 Viewer)

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So I am planning on tackling this over the weekend. I have a new one ordered and have been digging up threads and can't really find a how to/tutorial etc. anyone know a place where I can find an online manual or something? I have never replaced a radiator but have worked on my Avalanche and blazer when they would break, so my core competency isn't terrible.

Also, should I be worried about transmission fluid loss?
 
Here you go. For an '03
 

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I just did this myself a few weeks ago. I found it easier to leave the lower radiator hose and the transmission cooler lines connected to the radiator for removal. The fan shroud remained in the engine bay. Super easy job. I am replacing the timing belt next year, so I didn't mess with a full coolant replacement. It took just over one gallon of the pink stuff to replace and purge. The ATF loss was negligible.
 
Thanks guys, I have new lights to install as well and need to take the front bumper off, you think that will make it slightly easier to get the rad out? If not, I'll probably just tackle the lights next week and do the radiator the traditional way.
 
Thanks guys, I have new lights to install as well and need to take the front bumper off, you think that will make it slightly easier to get the rad out? If not, I'll probably just tackle the lights next week and do the radiator the traditional way.

It won't make it any easier. Well, you will be able to see the radiator bolts better but it is accessible through the openings in the bumpers.
 
Thanks, well I just opened the box. The rad was damaged in shipping and actually looked like it was defective anyway. There is a big ass slant from one side to the other. It was a TYC from Amazon but the reviews were saying they were actually Koyo TYC so I took a chance. So I guess I'm ordering the real Koyo tonight.
 
Take yackowski advice about the shroud and hoses. I take em loose by the alternator/sway bar. I usually stick old spark plugs into the trans cooler hoses so the mess will be kept to a minimum. You'll get a couple of drips from the hard lines but enough to worry about and the fluid inside cooler is not much. Maybe 1/2 pint total. When you transfer the hoses, make sure you place the clamps in its old spot to minimize leaks.
 
Take yackowski advice about the shroud and hoses. I take em loose by the alternator/sway bar. I usually stick old spark plugs into the trans cooler hoses so the mess will be kept to a minimum. You'll get a couple of drips from the hard lines but enough to worry about and the fluid inside cooler is not much. Maybe 1/2 pint total. When you transfer the hoses, make sure you place the clamps in its old spot to minimize leaks.

Perfect, I will do. That's good to hear that there isn't much fluid loss from the cooler.
 
Thanks, well I just opened the box. The rad was damaged in shipping and actually looked like it was defective anyway. There is a big ass slant from one side to the other. It was a TYC from Amazon but the reviews were saying they were actually Koyo TYC so I took a chance. So I guess I'm ordering the real Koyo tonight.
I have a TYC in mine and it's been perfect.
 
Can anyone post up The instructions for draining the system: PG 16-5, just to follow up with the above radiator change out instructions by DanKunz

Here you go. For an '03
 
I just did this myself a few weeks ago. I found it easier to leave the lower radiator hose and the transmission cooler lines connected to the radiator for removal. The fan shroud remained in the engine bay. Super easy job. I am replacing the timing belt next year, so I didn't mess with a full coolant replacement. It took just over one gallon of the pink stuff to replace and purge. The ATF loss was negligible.

Just to clarify, since I'm going to be doing this job shortly as well: you keep the trans cooler lines, and the lower rad hose, attached to the rad and yank them out with the rad?? So I assume you detach them from the other end? Not sure why that's easier than detaching them at the rad and pulling out the rad alone, but I'll look forward to your reply. Thanks.
 
rstl99 - That is correct. The clearance is super tight and it is much easier to just disconnect the engine side of the lower radiator hose and the transmission lines at the flex/rigid connection as well. This also allows you to easily put all of the hose clamps back into the same grooves in the hose, if you aren't replacing the hoses at this time.

Cole
 
Thanks Cole, much appreciated. I'm replacing the rad hoses but not the flex transmission lines at this point. Ok, sounds good.
 
When I did mine a couple days ago, I disconnected the lower hose at the engine, but also disconnected the tranny lines at the radiator. I guess it works either way.
 
Looks like I get to be next here... quick question about the ATF- if I am reading correct, there's not enough inside the radiator to worry about? Or did you guys try to fill it up prior to install? I have watched a few videos, looks pretty straight forward, but any other tips on this job are welcome.

check out the pink stalagtites.

IMG_4673.JPG
 
You'll only lose a very small amount of ATF when you disconnect the lines. Not enough to even give a second thought to IMO.
 
Cool thanks! Also what is the consensus on radiators, is the Denso from Rock Auto the way to go? Saw another thread that mentioned that one...
I can't answer that, but I do have a TYC in mine, which I got on Amazon. It's been in for nearly 3 years and has been perfect.
 
If I'm doing a complete coolant swap, should I run distilled through the system before or just open the block drains and swap rad?
 

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