Radiator leak. Fixable? (1 Viewer)

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I guess that is in how you define "inferior"? Aluminum is cheaper per pound than copper, so I guess, perceived as "inferior"? It's not uncommon to see original aluminum radiators, still doing the job, so good life, especially in our local, demanding climate, desert. Due to almost all of the install base being aluminum, the coolant mix is now biased to protecting them over copper. Due to the characteristics of aluminum, the design can change, different tube size/depth and fin spacing, theoretically making them more efficient, less restrictive in both water and air flow. This is evident in our observations, when heavily loaded, slogging through sand, big climbs, etc, the temp call comes on the radio, it easy to pick out the copper equipped rigs, always significantly, repeatedly, hotter.

Not so much anymore, locally most of the copper radiators have been switched to aluminum. The ones still running copper also rely on the stock temp gauge, so can't tell the difference. :hillbilly:


You guys are an anomaly in AZ. :hillbilly:

That said, I've never experienced the problems with heat you are reporting. And I've wheeled most of the same placed you guys have (a few times together IIRC)... well except the AZ part. :lol:
 
You guys are an anomaly in AZ. :hillbilly:

True, in lots of ways!:hillbilly: But the one that counts in this case is; it's one of the best places in the US to test cooling, if it will work here, will work anywhere in the states. Witnessed by all of the factory test facilities here.

That said, I've never experienced the problems with heat you are reporting. And I've wheeled most of the same placed you guys have (a few times together IIRC)... well except the AZ part. :lol:

Wait, I didn't say "problem"? Several locals still run copper, what they have in common is the stock gauge stays in the middle, and blissfully happy to keep it that way. No problem right, it says so in the owners manual and FSM?:hillbilly:
 
The radiator recrimp didn't work. It wasn't a pleasant site after wasting my time reinstalling it and adding fresh coolant. At this point I am just going to order up the good one from Beno and be done with it. I don't trust taking it out to get looked at again just to have another issue.
 
Damn that sucks!
Yeah. s*** happens I guess. I have gone 21 years of driving without a radiator issue so its about time I guess. I'm a realist so on to the next.
 
Unless there is a crack in the tank its likely a defective gasket. Have the gasket replaced with a new crimping band. Any shop should guarantee their work so if you use the same shop then they should credit you the amount already charged for the unsuccessful repair it they were the ones suggesting that it just needed to be re-crimped.
 
Unless there is a crack in the tank its likely a defective gasket. Have the gasket replaced with a new crimping band. Any shop should guarantee their work so if you use the same shop then they should credit you the amount already charged for the unsuccessful repair it they were the ones suggesting that it just needed to be re-crimped.
I'm defiantly bringing it back to the shop but I just don't trust it now that it has leaked again.
 
New OEM rad fit like a glove. Much better fit than the knock off I had. All the bolts slid right in, no loosening anything to make it work.
 
Beno, Are the radiator caps on the 16400-66040 metal or plastic? How does the TRAD compare to CSF? I'm in dyer need of a radiator as I have one of the other models listed previously in this thread (PA66-GF30) and the top cap appears so brittle with cracks all over it and I'm afraid it may fail while I'm out wheeling. Thanks for any insight and sorry to bring back such an old thread, but there's good info in here!
 
Beno, Are the radiator caps on the 16400-66040 metal or plastic? How does the TRAD compare to CSF? I'm in dyer need of a radiator as I have one of the other models listed previously in this thread (PA66-GF30) and the top cap appears so brittle with cracks all over it and I'm afraid it may fail while I'm out wheeling. Thanks for any insight and sorry to bring back such an old thread, but there's good info in here!
Several of us bought the Csf and found ourselves running on the hot side when the engine is under any load greater than moderate. Do yourself a favor and get the aluminum TRAD or the very expensive Ron Davis radiator. I opted for the TRAD when I replaced the two year old CSF. Running cooler now. The issues with the CSF 2517 are well documented here on Mud.
 
what would be wrong with the cheapest one out there that fits right in ?


bonus: it's deeper = more cooling - lowered the temps in our 80 by ~10F compared to our LX with the Koyo 1918

details: Koyo 1918 was installed in the LX in 2017, if memory serves correctly - TYC 1918 was installed in the 80 in the summer of 2018 (promptly after the 80 moved from Louisiana to Arizona in early 2018, it started overheating in the summer :doh:)

I should mention: both trucks are supercharged, so challenged in Arizona summer heat - the TYC radiator has solved any problems so far: the 80 is consistently running cooler than our LX with totally rebuilt motor and stuff
 
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Good info here with a few twists and turns. Came across this thread as I saw a 2005 LC with the “PA66-GF30” radiator. Sounds like this type of radiator is OEM but not the stock one or the preferred one?
 
Here is some information I found about PA66-GF30 on the plastic radiator tank:

Customers often contact advanced radiators looking for a radiator and they give us a part number of PA66GF30. As they find this number on the radiator.



However this isn't a part number, this refers to the type of plastic used on the end fittings of the radiator.



Apparently it is made up of: Polyamide (nylon 6,6), 30% Glass fiber. Its very strong and is easily bonded and welded - ideal for use in car radiators!

More technical details about the plastic can be found here: http://www.merrem-materials.com/uploads/File/Kunststoffen/PA66_GF30_black.pdf
 

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