If he buys a factory new radiator from Toyota it should come with a new radiator cap as part of the package, mind did when i bought a new Toyota radiator for my 94
Radiator concerns
- Thread starter jwbc84
- Start date
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Also consider the dizzy o-ring, spark plug tube seals, valve cover gasket, and PCV grommet.
Post up a photo looking down into your radiator (cap removed). If it isn't gunked up and badly rusted any of the generic cooling system flushes should be safe, just follow directions.
Definitely replace the Tstat if it's the original or unknown; the needle gauge may look like the Tstat is operating normally but the Tstat can get sluggish (opening and closing) when they're old.
Been discussed a lot on the past, but FWIW
As already mentioned use distilled water for the final couple of flushes, but before that you can use tap water (garden hose, but don't attach it directly to the cooling system). Be sure to open the block drain, left side of engine, go in via the left front wheel well.
I like to remove the Tstat first then put the housing back on without a Tstat, then drive the vehicle with the cleaner/flush added for whatever it says on the bottle with the heat control lever on full hot (you don't need to turn the blower motor on). Drain completely including the block drain again, refill when cool, drive, drain, cool, etc, then a couple of final flushes using Distilled water (three gallons each time), then final fill, 50:50 coolant and distilled water.
If you're going to be replacing the radiator, heat control valve (you should) and any other smaller hoses (PHH, bypass hoses, firewall hoses), do all that after you've done the flush cycles as someone already mentioned. Then replace the components.
Another while-you're-in-there PM, you could flush out the transmission cooler (using Kooler Kleen or similar) while the radiator is out. After hooking the transmission cooler lines back up to the new radiator you can leave the Return side coming back to the transmission from the Trans cooler disconnected, run the engine for a few seconds and that will pump transmission fluid through the cooler and any debris loosened up by the Kooler Kleen will be flushed out into a bottle/bucket. Then recheck transmisison fluid level. Or, while you're there, do the complete "Rodney" transmission flush.
FWIW
Definitely replace the Tstat if it's the original or unknown; the needle gauge may look like the Tstat is operating normally but the Tstat can get sluggish (opening and closing) when they're old.
Been discussed a lot on the past, but FWIW
As already mentioned use distilled water for the final couple of flushes, but before that you can use tap water (garden hose, but don't attach it directly to the cooling system). Be sure to open the block drain, left side of engine, go in via the left front wheel well.
I like to remove the Tstat first then put the housing back on without a Tstat, then drive the vehicle with the cleaner/flush added for whatever it says on the bottle with the heat control lever on full hot (you don't need to turn the blower motor on). Drain completely including the block drain again, refill when cool, drive, drain, cool, etc, then a couple of final flushes using Distilled water (three gallons each time), then final fill, 50:50 coolant and distilled water.
If you're going to be replacing the radiator, heat control valve (you should) and any other smaller hoses (PHH, bypass hoses, firewall hoses), do all that after you've done the flush cycles as someone already mentioned. Then replace the components.
Another while-you're-in-there PM, you could flush out the transmission cooler (using Kooler Kleen or similar) while the radiator is out. After hooking the transmission cooler lines back up to the new radiator you can leave the Return side coming back to the transmission from the Trans cooler disconnected, run the engine for a few seconds and that will pump transmission fluid through the cooler and any debris loosened up by the Kooler Kleen will be flushed out into a bottle/bucket. Then recheck transmisison fluid level. Or, while you're there, do the complete "Rodney" transmission flush.
FWIW
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Ours has Original 1996 Radiator Too. Mine is Crazed but not as Discolored.
I plan to Redo the Foam with Lowes Foam per Wits End Recommendation.
Years ago I put a Koyo Amazon Radiator in Attic Rafter for $97 Shipped.
I Modded my Fan Clutch Years ago. Not Hard.
I cooked it in 200° Oven then measure Fluid that Came out and Replaced with High Viscosity. Check the Belts too.
forum.ih8mud.com
Now is the Perfect time to Check the Cooling System Heater Control Valve (on Firewall) and the Pesky Heater Hose (Nightmare) behind Starter.
Better to Rule them out now than have $50 worth of Antifreeze on the Ground & stranded.
**Toyota stuff is so well designed/made that I do not change based on Interval rather Degradation.
Replacing parts based on Time is Western thinking and makes sense with a Jeep.
Toyota Philosophy is to reduce Waste (Muda) and trashing Functional Parts is Wasteful.
I plan to Redo the Foam with Lowes Foam per Wits End Recommendation.
Years ago I put a Koyo Amazon Radiator in Attic Rafter for $97 Shipped.
I Modded my Fan Clutch Years ago. Not Hard.
I cooked it in 200° Oven then measure Fluid that Came out and Replaced with High Viscosity. Check the Belts too.
Blue Hub Fan Clutch
I bought an Aisin FCT-004 from Amazon and what I receive was the one on the right. Everything bolted up except when it was time to mount it on the water pump. The one on the left is what I purchased from Rockauto.com which is the correct one.
forum.ih8mud.com
Now is the Perfect time to Check the Cooling System Heater Control Valve (on Firewall) and the Pesky Heater Hose (Nightmare) behind Starter.
Better to Rule them out now than have $50 worth of Antifreeze on the Ground & stranded.
**Toyota stuff is so well designed/made that I do not change based on Interval rather Degradation.
Replacing parts based on Time is Western thinking and makes sense with a Jeep.
Toyota Philosophy is to reduce Waste (Muda) and trashing Functional Parts is Wasteful.
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- Thread starter
- #26
Thank you all for the great advise. I just stopped by the dealer ship to pick up my order. Just under $1k for all the fixins. After this the entire cooling system will have been replaced ( minus metal tubing/housings). Will pull off the oil pump to finally fix that leak. Going replace the Trans fluid and drop the transmission pan do the washer mod. Will be able to knock out a lot of PM items. Just not this weekend as it's supposed to hit 109!!!
If dropping the tranny pan, might as well change out the shift solenoid.
I used Therocure for the flush, drained the old coolant and replaced the block drain plug then filled with distilled and flush. Drove it for a day then drained and refilled with distilled, rinse and repeated 2X. My radiator was solid, but I agree with everyone else, go after everything you can on the cooling system. I’d also replace the hose below the throttle body. Definitely replace the oil pump cover seal with the rad removed.
- Thread starter
- #29
It did and with thankful that my local dealer had it in stocks. Thank you Rossville Toyota! I drove the 100 series to pick up the parts and was swarmed with the sales staff asking to buy it.
- Thread starter
- #30
New dizzy, plug wires and seals a couple years ago. Future project to pull the intake and valve cover for a good carbon removal, inspection, and gaskets.
- Thread starter
- #31
On the fence on this one. Transmission works great but I haven't changed to fluid since I've had it. I've put about 40k miles on it over the past 5 years. I do want a crisper shift though and will be doing the washer mod.
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