Need help just bought 96 cruiser were driving home and radiator blew up i stopped and called towing. What can it be ? i heard people have lots of problems like that !?
Radiator Blew (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter turbodrifter
- Start date
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Any pics? If the radiator is original, it's probably just age & needs to be replaced.
Radiator failure can also be caused by a bad radiator cap or a failing head gasket.
More info would help.
Radiator failure can also be caused by a bad radiator cap or a failing head gasket.
More info would help.
Was the temp gauge high when it blew? Probably a blown head gasket.
- Thread starter
- #4
seems like radiator is original. mileage 240000. just the top plastic piece blew off.
Not too uncommon. Check out some of the threads on here about radiators. Most reliable seems to be the OEM, however many have gone with aftermarket units with success.
Be sure to check your compression when you get back home. A blown head gasket could create enough pressure in the cooling system to expedite the failure of a weakened cooling system.
Be sure to check your compression when you get back home. A blown head gasket could create enough pressure in the cooling system to expedite the failure of a weakened cooling system.
I went with a koyo rad 1917 I think was the part number. It is brass core with plastic tanks.
The plastic top cap on the OEM rads are known to get weak and fail with age
There are stories of people just leaning on them and the top plastic breaks
My original failed at the top piece as well a few years ago, started as a small crack and then grew rapidly after a day or so
A compression test is not a bad idea, but it is probably the rad failing due to age
Like others have asked
Where your engine temps through the roof when it blew?
Post a picture of the failure area
I dont know if you plan on doing your own wrenching but, if you are, now would be a good time to take care of alot of PM
Like checking to see if the oil pump cover oring is leaking etc.
There are stories of people just leaning on them and the top plastic breaks
My original failed at the top piece as well a few years ago, started as a small crack and then grew rapidly after a day or so
A compression test is not a bad idea, but it is probably the rad failing due to age
Like others have asked
Where your engine temps through the roof when it blew?
Post a picture of the failure area
I dont know if you plan on doing your own wrenching but, if you are, now would be a good time to take care of alot of PM
Like checking to see if the oil pump cover oring is leaking etc.
I went with a 2 core Koyo aluminum radiator, works awesome. Id put in new OEM Thermostat, and hoses and mod the fan clutch with heavier oil and you should be golden. Also get a compression test to make sure the Head Gasket didn't get damaged.
- Thread starter
- #9
Guys temperature were normal right at middle even after it blew. I pulled over and turned engine off in less then 30 seconds. Oil pressure were low when on idle 1/3 but when accelerating it goes back to middle like it should be. ima flush system try to work on fan clutch and get radiator on junk yard. What if I get bigger radiator ? From Tundra or something bigger maybe American like dodge truck ?
Dont buy a junk yard rad that is just silly
The cooling system of the 80 is very critical and needs to be working properly with the proper parts
Or you will blow a head gasket or do other damage
If you dont want to spring for an OEM rad buy a CSF rad, they are cheaper
I have a CSF rad now, was all I could get at the time I needed it, still in the truck
replacing broken stuff with junk you will get what you pay for
The cooling system of the 80 is very critical and needs to be working properly with the proper parts
Or you will blow a head gasket or do other damage
If you dont want to spring for an OEM rad buy a CSF rad, they are cheaper
I have a CSF rad now, was all I could get at the time I needed it, still in the truck
replacing broken stuff with junk you will get what you pay for
The top part is called the tank. It cost me $80 to replace the tank. Call a radiator shop. They've got the machine to pull up the aluminum tabs and reseat the tank. While the tank was off they rodded and flushed the radiator. If I took the time to comb the fins it would be like new. No need for a new radiator. PM for details.
Dude, that is just bad karma right there!
No need to get a larger radiator. The stock unit is more than sufficient for these engines. As others have mentioned, now is a good time to get your whole cooling system in top shape. These vehicles are over built and pretty forgiving, except when maintenance has been neglected. Combine that with the summer heat and failures are imminent.
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
unless you've got some really awesome fabrication skills, don't bother with a radiator that's been sized to fit a different vehicle...it won't work well in the 80 given the fairly tight fit where the radiator resides.
By the time you do all the fabbbing and fitting and specialty hoses you'll be at the price of a NEW Koyo anyway
- Thread starter
- #16
Ok i installed Radiator. it was pain in A** to take it out. But i still think there is too much pressure in coolant system.
you replace the thermostat? If not get a new one, get one from the dealer. I went cheap and got aa bad thermostat.
My radiator blew this weekend
CWR33 said:
Wow! I've never seen it blow like that before.
Wow! That is impressive.
When I recycled my original rad (153K miles, this year), the recycler wanted me to remove the plastic tanks and steel. I removed the plastic with a BFH, but it was amazingly tough stuff, even 15 years old with spider cracks. BTW: The recycler gave me $15 for the aluminum. I replaced mine with a ToyRad one from Beno and I made sure all the side gaps along the edges of the rad were filled with appropriate foam.
