Builds R²M 2013 GX 460 Overland Build (6 Viewers)

[Clos]

I purchased this 2013 GX 460 Premium edition around May, 2018. Only had 38,000 miles, very clean and stole it from a Lexus dealership for a little over $32,000. It was previously a small Korean moms car. Deduced this by:

• When I pressed the seat memory to see where it landed, I had my knees crushed into the dash (I'm 6'0") when it finish. Conclusion: small woman.
• She still had time on her Sirius radio and the presets were set to Korean channels. Conclusion: she was Korean.
• Candy rappers and parts of toys in the passenger seats. Conclusion, must be a mom...

I don't think the sun roof was ever opened. There was still plastic rapping that covered door sills. And for sure she never, ever off-roaded it!

So, now to the good stuff. I purchased my armor, suspension and wheels from Metal Tech (in fact most everything was from them. I don't have time now to list everything, but I'll post more pictures and info as I have time.
NOTE: YotaMaster did all the work!!! Owner Eric Hansen was great since this was their first GX 460 and there is NO dual battery brackets presently for them. His team had to fabricate one.

So aside from what is seen in the photos, here is the short list of what can't be seen. I have front and rear ARB lockers, re-geared (already forgot what the ratio is), dual batteries, ARB's twin compressor, Yaesu FTM-400XDR ham radio, front led light bar and proximity lights on both sides of the rack. Gamiviti roof rack. I-Kamper roof top tent.

Not sure when I can get back to add more details, but I will. I'll try to do a list of everything done including sizes and part numbers as necessary.

View attachment 1834691The YotaMasters crew. I'm the guy with the goofy happy smile on the far left. The big Viking looking guy is Eric Hansen, owner. It took a long time for them to do the work, partly because this was a unique rig for them. Example, trying to keep my proximity sensors working properly with the new bumpers. Metal Tech was still building some of the armor I needed and had to wait for that. As mentioned before, had to engineer a dual battery bracket which came out awesome! There was definitely a wee bit of a learning curve for the guys at YotaMasters working on something like this, but they did a GREAT job! Here is YotaMasters link: Yotamasters - Quality parts and service

View attachment 1834693

View attachment 1834694My wife, the model...

View attachment 1834697

Nice! Does this one come with leather seats?

 

[OllieChristopher]

You can get pretty far with a locked 2wd. Really good for developing driver skills, as well.

What I like most (and most challenging) is learning to read the trails for ground and body clearance. This dedicated 2 track traveling in a cage is a whole other ballgame. I'm doing it in baby steps. I have no illusions as to my lack of experience in 4 wheeled "hard core" off highway travel.

Just a few seasons ago I took my buddies turbo Razor for a spin. When I got back to camp my body was beat to crud. He and my other buddies reminded me you can't use your body positioning to control the vehicle. Pulling back/pushing on the steering wheel and leaning into corners does absolutely nothing!! LOL

 

[r2m]

No doubt!! That was my maiden voyage to see what 2wd and a TruTrac locker can really do. I was afraid to go any farther. I'm very fortunate to have pre ran almost every jeep trail and single track in Big Bear on my KTM 300 and Beta dual sport. So I know which ones tear up vehicles. I'm a very simplistic dude when camping minimalist yet comfortable sleeping arrangement. No matter what rig I take I got my camp gear ready to load and go.

Having all your camping gear "kitted" out is the most efficient method and also reduces chances of forgetting something, like stove, lanterns, cookware, etc.
I have everything kitted into 3 boxes including a folding potty seat. Load those in, some food and fridge and we're ready to go!

 

[r2m]

Nice! Does this one come with leather seats?

Yes, all leather, it's the Premium edition with everything!

 

[r2m]

Here's an earlier version of overlanding!

Here's the story on the person who "invented" the motor home: Meet the American who invented the motor home - https://www.foxnews.com/lifestyle/american-invented-motor-home
See if you can pull any ideas from this guy to incorporate into your rig!

 

[r2m]

Since I've mounted those 315/70R17 BFG A/T's, I've had rubbing.
I corrected a lot of the rubbing just by having it realigned and moving the caster forward, but I am still getting some rubbing at lock-to-lock.
So I'm thinking of getting some thin (12 mm) spacers, but just for the front. I want my rear tires to still tuck into the wheel well when compressed.
So my question to this forum and those of you who have maybe done this before, are there any issues with adding spacers to ONLY the front end?
Will changing the track of just the front cause any issues with driveability?

 

[OCGX]

Since I've mounted those 315/70R17 BFG A/T's, I've had rubbing.
I corrected a lot of the rubbing just by having it realigned and moving the caster forward, but I am still getting some rubbing at lock-to-lock.
So I'm thinking of getting some thin (12 mm) spacers, but just for the front. I want my rear tires to still tuck into the wheel well when compressed.
So my question to this forum and those of you who have maybe done this before, are there any issues with adding spacers to ONLY the front end?
Will changing the track of just the front cause any issues with driveability?

I am currently running 1.5" spacers in the front, and .75" spacers in the rear for the exact same reasons you mention. My 18x9 +0 offset wheels were hitting the UCA with a .75" spacer, so I had to bump it up. I haven't had any drivability issues with this setup.
I have the other pair of .75" spacers if you want to give them a try.

 

[r2m]

I am currently running 1.5" spacers in the front, and .75" spacers in the rear for the exact same reasons you mention. My 18x9 +0 offset wheels were hitting the UCA with a .75" spacer, so I had to bump it up. I haven't had any drivability issues with this setup.
I have the other pair of .75" spacers if you want to give them a try.

Considering you're in OC, would you mind if I bolted them on for a look-see?
I'll PM you.

 

[r2m]

This past weekend going to a friends house I saw a very nice silver GX. If I remember correctly it had bumpers, rack, rear spare, sliders, and I think black wheels parked in front of a home in a San Juan Capistrano neighborhood.
Is this anyone on here?
If so, you can PM me if you want to stay anonymous.

 

[r2m]

(preamble, not necessary to read...)
Went to start my rig yesterday and it did the click, click, click of a low battery. Had to pull out my handy-dandy Li-Po jumper from my back seat, and BANG! ready to go! And made it to work on time. End of day, it started okay without any help. Problem is, my Odyssey batteries are not that old.
So I'm wondering if only driving 3.5 miles each way to work and back, which relates to about 8 minutes of charging per trip (running the engine), and not really any other driving throughout the week was causing the problem? I went to my mechanic who is also about 2 miles from work and less than a mile from home, to look at the batteries and alternator. He said that the batteries are fine (phew! those batteries are not cheap). BUT... the alternator was only pushing about 13 VDC, so it's just covering enough to barely keep the batteries alive. It's fine for long drives but, what I'm commuting (if you want to call it that) is not really cutting it.

(question to MUD, necessary to read)
So after that long preamble, I'm looking at replacing my alternator. Generally I've always upgraded to a 200 amp alternator because of dual batteries and all the electronics I add to my overlanders. But because this the newest vehicle I'll be doing this to, thought I'd see what you all say.
I believe our GX's come with a 110 amp alternators, correct?
Anyone upgrade theirs yet? If so, any recommendations that'll have stock fitment and wiring?

 

[OCGX]

(question to MUD, necessary to read)
So after that long preamble, I'm looking at replacing my alternator. Generally I've always upgraded to a 200 amp alternator because of dual batteries and all the electronics I add to my overlanders. But because this the newest vehicle I'll be doing this to, thought I'd see what you all say.
I believe our GX's come with a 110 amp alternators, correct?
Anyone upgrade theirs yet? If so, any recommendations that'll have stock fitment and wiring?

The 180A Sequoia alternator will fit. 27060-38050-84. This is on my to do list, there are posts on the GXOR FB group.
The only modification is to enlarge the hole on the output connector because the stud and nut are larger.
Also consider one of the diode alternator voltage boosters. This is the one I run for my AGM and LiFePO4 setup.

Triple State Voltage Booster - 5th Gen 4Runner — ArcLightLEDs

IMPORTANT: VOLTAGE BOOSTERS ARE NOT COMPATIBLE WITH 2020+ 4RUNNERS DUE TO CHANGE IN FUSE BOX LAYOUT Did you know a AGM Battery (eg Odyssey, Optima, Northstar) requires a higher voltage output to properly charge? Odyssey states in their warranty booklet that: “…applications where an alternato

www.arclightleds.com

 

[r2m]

The 180A Sequoia alternator will fit. 27060-38050-84. This is on my to do list, there are posts on the GXOR FB group.
The only modification is to enlarge the hole on the output connector because the stud and nut are larger.
Also consider one of the diode alternator voltage boosters. This is the one I run for my AGM and LiFePO4 setup.

Triple State Voltage Booster - 5th Gen 4Runner — ArcLightLEDs

IMPORTANT: VOLTAGE BOOSTERS ARE NOT COMPATIBLE WITH 2020+ 4RUNNERS DUE TO CHANGE IN FUSE BOX LAYOUT Did you know a AGM Battery (eg Odyssey, Optima, Northstar) requires a higher voltage output to properly charge? Odyssey states in their warranty booklet that: “…applications where an alternato

www.arclightleds.com

I think I'm going to go with this:

2013 Lexus GX460 4.6L 8 Cyl Alternator. Custom Built; 240 Amps | Phoenix Alternator

High Output Alternator Lexus GX460 2013 4.6L 8 Cyl

www.phoenix-alternator.com

I called them up this morning to absolutely confirm that it's "plug-n-play", no wiring harnesses, no different plugs, mounts or anything else, but fits exactly as OEM. My mechanic only does OEM (or equal) work, so if anything needs a mod to fit, he doesn't want to deal with it. I put a 240 amp alternator in my last overlander (100 series LC) and for me, I've found that my personal time is worth far more than having a mechanic do, especially since I have a very good mechanic with very fair labor rates. Why waste a weekend afternoon on my back when I can be with my family? Yes there was a time when my labor was worth far more than my time and did all that myself, so it's not for lack of knowledge or even tools.
The other reason for going with a 240 amp instead of a Sequoia 180 amp, is for even more amperage. Considering I have dual batteries, winch, ARB's twin compressor, lights, HAM radio, 3000 watt AC inverter and sometimes fridge, e-chainsaw, I'm thinking having the extra 60 amps would be good insurance. Plus the aforementioned note of no mod's for my mechanic to deal with.

But I'm still open to suggestions!

 

[isidhuji]

I just did the diode and able to see almost 14v (13.8) out of the stock alternator. It maybe stressing the alternator but if the end result is to delay a new alternator, I am ok with that. I am guessing with Toyota reliability, I may have a few 100k miles till when I need an upgrade.

I also doubt it will be stressing the alternator all that much so it maybe ok anyways.
I am now running a 27 group X2 AGM under the hood for reference.

 

[OCGX]

That Phoenix alternator looks good, and the price is right. I'll bookmark that for later.

 

[Acrad]

Here is stock stuff... 150A if you have 3 zone HVAC.

27060-38080 12V 130A 1
27060-38090 12V 150A, AIR CONDITIONER-DUAL(AUTO)

 

[r2m]

Yes I do have the 3 zone HVAC. Wasn't aware that, that trim level required a higher amperage alternator, but makes sense.
Good think I'm planning on a 240 amp alternator!
Thanks again Acrad!

 

[TheBoer]

(preamble, not necessary to read...)
Went to start my rig yesterday and it did the click, click, click of a low battery. Had to pull out my handy-dandy Li-Po jumper from my back seat, and BANG! ready to go! And made it to work on time. End of day, it started okay without any help. Problem is, my Odyssey batteries are not that old.
So I'm wondering if only driving 3.5 miles each way to work and back, which relates to about 8 minutes of charging per trip (running the engine), and not really any other driving throughout the week was causing the problem? I went to my mechanic who is also about 2 miles from work and less than a mile from home, to look at the batteries and alternator. He said that the batteries are fine (phew! those batteries are not cheap). BUT... the alternator was only pushing about 13 VDC, so it's just covering enough to barely keep the batteries alive. It's fine for long drives but, what I'm commuting (if you want to call it that) is not really cutting it.

(question to MUD, necessary to read)
So after that long preamble, I'm looking at replacing my alternator. Generally I've always upgraded to a 200 amp alternator because of dual batteries and all the electronics I add to my overlanders. But because this the newest vehicle I'll be doing this to, thought I'd see what you all say.
I believe our GX's come with a 110 amp alternators, correct?
Anyone upgrade theirs yet? If so, any recommendations that'll have stock fitment and wiring?

Oh man, this is both good and bad to hear... Bad because I have a similarly short "commute". Good because maybe I can do something about it now to avoid this becoming a problem, so I thank you for that. Looks like it's purposeful gas wasting time! Aka trips to the store for no reason, Lol.

How long of a daily afternoon drive do you reckon would keep the alternator tip top? Like 20-30 mins?

 

[aztoytec]

Would one of those solar panel chargers help?

 

[McDuff123]

How long of a daily afternoon drive do you reckon would keep the alternator tip top? Like 20-30 mins?

it’s not the alternator that cares about short or long trips, it’s the battery. A series of short-duration drives doesn’t put enough charge (via the alternator) into the battery to keep it at its healthy phase of 12.4-12.7 volts resting.
In addition, short drives are hard on the motor and engine oil, in that you won’t be generating enough heat for long enough to evaporate the water out of your oil.
As water mixes with the oil, if it doesn’t get gassed away, it starts forming acids that can etch the cylinder walls.
Long drives are your friend.

 

[r2m]

Oh man, this is both good and bad to hear... Bad because I have a similarly short "commute". Good because maybe I can do something about it now to avoid this becoming a problem, so I thank you for that. Looks like it's purposeful gas wasting time! Aka trips to the store for no reason, Lol.

How long of a daily afternoon drive do you reckon would keep the alternator tip top? Like 20-30 mins?

Probably a minimum of >15 at a time. That's what I do when camping over several days in one location to keep my batteries charged for my fridge and other accessories. I'll just let it idle for about 15 minutes or more and it's good for another couple days.