Builds R²M 2013 GX 460 Overland Build (4 Viewers)

[r2m]

Here is a pic of the width behind my 2018 Power Wagon on 37's.

Hard to say how high it would sit behind the GX but you'd certainly have to have a riser on your hitch for it or drop down to smaller tires and that would look pretty silly considering that they are setup for 37's. Most come with the canvas top but not all of them have the bows needed to complete it. I am not a fan of the soft top, it's fine around town but it's not really up to the task of highway speeds and the buckles and twist tabs that lock it to the trailer suck. Good luck finding a Schutt hard top too, I looked for a year and never found one and they are TALL with them on.

I tracked down a now out of business company in California that was making hardtops for them and myself and another guy bought one. They weren't bad but they weren't perfect either and needed reinforcing with the interior frame/cage. Even then they still weren't quite up to the task of a static load required to run a RTT with occupants safely. The biggest drawback to them is that they are as wide and they are long and they aren't easy to insulate. I ran mine with two cots inside once and that was the end of the it. They are also quite wobbly even with the included platform jacks.

I wanted these to work and in regards to towing behind a large, lifted truck they do quite well both on and off-road but I wasn't a fan as a "overland trailer." I ended up flipping six of them and made some good money but I've since moved on.

As far as tire size, I'd be mounting the same size wheel/tire/lug pattern as on my rig which is just shy of 34" tire.
With 34" tires and a 3.5" lift, I wonder if it'd still be tipping forward when hitched?
Not sure what you're referring to here, "...They are also quite wobbly even with the included platform jacks."? Do you mean when the trailer is static and just being supported by the front tongue wheel? Or were you talking about the shell topper?
Regarding the canvas top, my plan would be to make a hard rack, like a low pickup truck rack so I could mount my RTT on and still use the bed for chairs, fridge, kitchen box, etc. I wouldn't want the rack with RTT to be any higher than the roof line of my rig.
As far as rear view, I suppose I could always get a rear view camera for the trailer.

 

[Tex68w]

They look funny with 35's, I've seen them run like that, I understand why you would want to run a smaller tire but just keep that in mind. The wheels are a 16.5" run flat like on the HMMWV so you can get some money for them should you wanna sell them.

I meant that the trailer is kind of wobbly when on the hitch because it uses a pintle and lunette, of course this can be changed out but unless you use an articulating hitch like a Lock-N-Roll or Max Coupler, you'll lose that flexibility off-road. The front of the trailer stores two rear leveling jacks to be used when the trailer is loaded and off of the hitch, it can be a tad unstable when in use like that as well.

One of my biggest gripes however was how much the trailer jumps around. They are aluminum and very light and they are rather short so that makes for quite the bouncy ride, especially if you are towing it with less than a few hundred pounds of payload. They can be a good trailer if done correctly but honestly, for the size of our GX's I would recommend the M101A1/A2 since it's a much more appropriate size and you can convert the hub to match the GX bolt pattern so that you can use the wheels/tires as spares for the truck if needed. M101's are made of steel so that is a drawback but they are smaller and usually cheaper, but they are getting harder to find in decent shape. If you go the M101 route I recommend the A2 model because it has surge brakes, if you want electric brakes then I'd look for an A1 and add them.

 

[r2m]

Went to Black Mountain yesterday and took some dirty pictures.
Humm. I just tried to attach some pictures and I'm getting the "Opps, there's been an error." message.
I think my pic's are too large. I'll see if I have time to reduce them.

 

[Sebaz]

WOW is all I have to say. Love everything about this rig. I bought my 14 GX a couple months ago and am addicted. Trying to wade into the waters of mods but it's hard not to want to do everything at once! Thanks for the inspiration and forgive me when I rip off most of your ideas .

 

[r2m]

WOW is all I have to say. Love everything about this rig. I bought my 14 GX a couple months ago and am addicted. Trying to wade into the waters of mods but it's hard not to want to do everything at once! Thanks for the inspiration and forgive me when I rip off most of your ideas .

Congrats on your new (to you) GX! Thank you for the kudos!
There are many on here with a ton of great ideas and experience for mods and how-tos, so get a hot cup of coffee and enjoy some time with us!
This being my third overland build, let me give a little advice to use as you wish.
I usually try to build my vehicles in stages as follows:

1. I usually start with rims and tires you want to use. Purchase all 5 rims (7 or 8 rims if you plan on an adventure trailer also) even if you don't mount tires on them right away. Unless you're going with huge tires or you don't plan on the next stage until you wear out these tires, just get the tires size you want.
2. Next, suspension. I get tired of having to be careful going in and out of driveways or lock-to-lock because of tire rubbing. For me this is the next thing to bang out. Do it all at once to whatever level build you're going after. e.g.: UCA's, trailing arms, shocks, springs, everything.
3. Armor. This can probably be a toss-up between this and the next stage. Front and rear bumpers with rock sliders.
   • You may want to decide here on what accessories you'll want on your rear bumper, if any. If the budget is tight, make sure you order your bumper with mounting brackets and you can add the accessories (rear tire hanger, jerry can mounts, HighLift mount) later.
4. Under carriage skid plates. Cover as much as you can, e.g. fuel tank, trans, engine.
5. On board air compressor or a good carry along compressor.

The above four stages will get you off-roading in almost anything and keeping you and your rig safe.
Fun stuff! I don't have any order for this. It usually happens as funds become available, sales, time, and so on.

• Roof rack
• Winch
• Lights
  • Front light LED light bar (roof rack and/or front bumper)
  • Ditch lights
  • Proximity lights (left, right and rear facing)
  • Under carriage lighting.
• Extra power ports
• Extra skid plates for rear diff, fear trailing arms, etc.
• Solar
• Second battery
• HAM radio
• Mounts for this and that.

And the list can be as exhaustive as your imagination or budget allows!
Hope this helps!

 

[overl4nd]

Hello
I am adding a 12V socket to the cargo area. I don't want to run it direct from battery, but use a relay to switch it so that it get power only when ignition is on. Where did you tap such a 12V supply from in the engine bay?

 

[r2m]

Hello
I am adding a 12V socket to the cargo area. I don't want to run it direct from battery, but use a relay to switch it so that it get power only when ignition is on. Where did you tap such a 12V supply from in the engine bay?

I ran mine the entire length of the vehicle, from the rear to my aux battery so I could have a "hot" 12 VDC for when I had the car turned off. Doing that allows me to keep my refrigerator running all night without having to have my ignition on. Same if I'm charging anything off the USB's back there.
I used 1/0 AWG wire from Amazon:
Amazon product ASIN B01JMNJAP6Not sure if you looked yet, in my build you can see where I ran the wire from under the vehicle, up into the third row seat area in into that right rear quarter panel.
Hope this helps!

 

[MrTorgue]

I ran mine the entire length of the vehicle, from the rear to my aux battery so I could have a "hot" 12 VDC for when I had the car turned off. Doing that allows me to keep my refrigerator running all night without having to have my ignition on. Same if I'm charging anything off the USB's back there.
I used 1/0 AWG wire from Amazon:
Amazon product ASIN B01JMNJAP6Not sure if you looked yet, in my build you can see where I ran the wire from under the vehicle, up into the third row seat area in into that right rear quarter panel.
Hope this helps!

Did you make your own hole/grommet for the wiring back in to the cabin or use an existing grommet? I only know of the grommet in the engine bay and possibly one in the rear cargo area? Not sure about that though, having poked around back there yet.

 

[r2m]

Did you make your own hole/grommet for the wiring back in to the cabin or use an existing grommet? I only know of the grommet in the engine bay and possibly one in the rear cargo area? Not sure about that though, having poked around back there yet.

Just used the existing grommet and cut a hole in for the wire and then some silicone around the port to seal it.

 

[overl4nd]

I ran mine the entire length of the vehicle, from the rear to my aux battery so I could have a "hot" 12 VDC for when I had the car turned off. Doing that allows me to keep my refrigerator running all night without having to have my ignition on. Same if I'm charging anything off the USB's back there.
I used 1/0 AWG wire from Amazon:
Amazon product ASIN B01JMNJAP6Not sure if you looked yet, in my build you can see where I ran the wire from under the vehicle, up into the third row seat area in into that right rear quarter panel.
Hope this helps!

Thanks. I don't plan on a dual system so decided to tap into the internal fuse box. Apparently there is a unfused ignition controlled suppy there . I plan to tap it with a fuse tapper and 15A fuse. Good enough to run my 45W fridge and charge phones

 

[overl4nd]

I ran mine the entire length of the vehicle, from the rear to my aux battery so I could have a "hot" 12 VDC for when I had the car turned off. Doing that allows me to keep my refrigerator running all night without having to have my ignition on. Same if I'm charging anything off the USB's back there.
I used 1/0 AWG wire from Amazon:
Amazon product ASIN B01JMNJAP6Not sure if you looked yet, in my build you can see where I ran the wire from under the vehicle, up into the third row seat area in into that right rear quarter panel.
Hope this helps!

Ome more thing, are you using third row seats? If not, they get a 30A rated constant 12V too! Right in the boot area. But yes, its off the main battery and that may not be desirable

 

[r2m]

Ome more thing, are you using third row seats? If not, they get a 30A rated constant 12V too! Right in the boot area. But yes, its off the main battery and that may not be desirable

I've kept the third row seats. I have a 3 year old granddaughter and we as a family will sometimes go out together, thus needing the third row.
Albeit, it's kind of a headache putting them up because I have those MOLLE panels on the rear quarter panels loaded with gear which I have to take some down just to get the seats back in the up-right position again.
Also, I don't really have room or a place to store the seats if I take them out and I wouldn't want to just junk them.
So yes, it sounds like the seats power line in the back would be a great tap for a constant on for a rear power panel! But as you mentioned, gotta be careful what you plug in with only one battery! One thing I always keep in my rig anyways is a portable jump start:
Amazon product ASIN B07FTG9PBKI've been VERY pleased with its size and performance! Plus, after you use it, just plug it into your USB port to charge up again after starting your car!

 

[r2m]

Spent 3 days out on Red Mountain (So. Cal) wheeling and camping with our "Jeep" club. Although there is one Lexus, a LX450 and a couple of Toyota's.
Early morning coffee. Yes, that "caveman" is me. Since COVID-19, we've been doing our Army reservist drills as on line class rooms, so I've been able to actually let my hair and beard grow a wee bit. Okay, maybe a little more than a wee bit...

Met a fellow and his two little kids, with this really nice 200 series!

Just a basic hero shot.

The camp site in the morning with the sun rising over the hills.

Yep, That's So. Cal. No snow!

 

[MrTorgue]

Spent 3 days out on Red Mountain (So. Cal) wheeling and camping with our "Jeep" club. Although there is one Lexus, a LX450 and a couple of Toyota's.
Early morning coffee. Yes, that "caveman" is me. Since COVID-19, we've been doing our Army reservist drills as on line class rooms, so I've been able to actually let my hair and beard grow a wee bit. Okay, maybe a little more than a wee bit...
View attachment 2551238
Met a fellow and his two little kids, with this really nice 200 series!
View attachment 2551239
Just a basic hero shot.
View attachment 2551240
The camp site in the morning with the sun rising over the hills.
View attachment 2551241
Yep, That's So. Cal. No snow!

I dig it.

 

[Tex68w]

Spent 3 days out on Red Mountain (So. Cal) wheeling and camping with our "Jeep" club. Although there is one Lexus, a LX450 and a couple of Toyota's.
Early morning coffee. Yes, that "caveman" is me. Since COVID-19, we've been doing our Army reservist drills as on line class rooms, so I've been able to actually let my hair and beard grow a wee bit. Okay, maybe a little more than a wee bit...
View attachment 2551238
Met a fellow and his two little kids, with this really nice 200 series!
View attachment 2551239
Just a basic hero shot.
View attachment 2551240
The camp site in the morning with the sun rising over the hills.
View attachment 2551241
Yep, That's So. Cal. No snow!

That looks like Corey Whitakers 200. Great pics!

 

[r2m]

That looks like Corey Whitakers 200. Great pics!

I didn't get a last name but his first name was Cory!
A thin tall guy, fair complexion, very friendly? We had a nice chat about our rigs for a while.
He said that he's on MUD's 200 forum, but not much.

 

[Tex68w]

I didn't get a last name but his first name was Cory!
A thin tall guy, fair complexion, very friendly? We had a nice chat about our rigs for a while.
He said that he's on MUD's 200 forum, but not much.

Yea, he's on instagram as overlanddad, we've pinged one another over the past year about Toyota stuffs lol. Super nice guy and very helpful, he has some rig walk around videos on youtube as well.

 

[r2m]

Yea, he's on instagram as overlanddad, we've pinged one another over the past year about Toyota stuffs lol. Super nice guy and very helpful, he has some rig walk around videos on youtube as well.

Yep, I think his license plate was like "OVRLDAD" or something like that.

 

[r2m]

Never remove your valve caps again!!
I purchased these valve caps a few weeks ago on Amazon:
Amazon product ASIN B08BVVJCFQ
So far they have been GREAT!! I've used them on the trail having to air down and back up with them they work flawlessly.
Really super simple. I've been known to forget to replace valve caps when airing my tires, so with these I never have to remove and keep track of my valve caps when I'm airing down or up. Keeps dirt and mud from getting inside the valve stem plunger area. Because they're threaded, you can easily add your tire deflators or air chuck to them. It also makes it quicker to check tire pressure, just press your pressure gauge on.

 

[r2m]

Here are some photos of where my modular switch panel is located.
I used 2" hook and loop (Velcro) for attaching. Never have had an issue yet.
It's not plainly visible from my seated position (see photo below) as it sits behind the steering wheel and turn signal stalk. But for me, I don't mind and it's not a hassle to move my head a little to see which button I push, especially when I know where the position of the buttons by feel are for each function: air compressor, front locker, rear locker, lights, etc.

The below photo is with it pulled off from the "fuzzy" Velcro.

This is my view with the camera sitting on my nose to give a perspective of my actual view in the drivers seat.