quick question for those having done Saginaw PS (1 Viewer)

[psreno]

For the cross member sleeve we used a gas cylinder top (the unscrewable protector top). Slice out a section and weld it in. Hole saw if you don't have plasma cutter. I have tried a regular torch and didn't like the results, although it could just be me

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Fwiw even with our cross member tube you can set the box back almost an inch more. I notched my frame at the same time I did the cross-member tube and its fully welded. I'll grab a picture. It was nice as it allowed me to trim the front of my frame and suck my front bumper back an inch or so.

 

[peiserg]

ok dudes n dudettes,

I'm just about ready to weld. Thing is, i notice in the above pics posted, the box is actually RECESSED into the cross rail of the frame.

I drilled a 3" hole using a bimetal hole cutter... the input shaft of the saginaw box has some sort of "ring" around the edge, which precludes me from sliding it INTO the cross member.

I think i see that same "ring" in the photo with the extensively cut cross member.

is it OK to NOT slide the input end INTO the cross member, i.e., only the spud shaft dissapears into the cross member? I guess this would put my box 1" more forward than the ones pictured in the thread..

 

[Darby Darrow]

I was lucky enough to get a set of ButchBuilt (RIP) frame horn and steering plates when I did mine. I thought that there was someone who continued to sell this style. Mudrak maybe?

Luke Porter at 4x4 labs uses the Butch Lewis style frame plates.

 

[psreno]

Your placement of the sag box will depend on the steering column, pillow block and intermediate pieces.

Either is fine (inside or outside), but remember you will need to access the back end of the sag box to attach your column connector.

 

[peiserg]

Ok, if either is fine, then all is good. THe SOR kit comes with a pretty long attachment which slides onto the input shaft of the saginaw box. this long attachment then connects to the steering shaft universal type joint. I think the attachment is a "spud shaft??" At any rate, it's probably 6-8 inches long, which means i have plenty of length available to have my Sag box totally outside the cross member of the frame.

Of course, this also means i didn't need to put a 3 inch hole in my cross member, since only the spud shaft is going through it, and it is prob 3/4" diameter.

ah well.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Comes down to what your going to do with a front bumper, motor mounts on the inside and steering geometry. With the kit like mine or 4x4Labs, you don't have to run a spud shaft, and you can tuck your box further back allowing you more flexibility with bumpers, shackles, frame trims, etc. No right or wrong but make sure your comfortable with the project before you nuke it all together

 

[haystax]

What are you using for a pitman arm? Tie rod? Relay rod? You need to think about how those components line up as well.

That crossmember shouldn't really need to do much more than hold the radiator in a somewhat close position after you finish frame horn reinforcement and build a "real" front bumper. Just depends what you are gonna do with it. All mods seem to lead to something else so it's best to always think ahead.

 

[POTATO LAUNCHER]

x2 haystax, thats what I was referring to when I originally posted a while back. With a good stout bumper, frame flex is not an issue. Adjusting steering box placement for optimum performance is critical including, but not limited, to parallel steering rods and as straight a shot from the column, will help high dollar steering ujoints last.

 

[twoyotas]

I was lucky enough to get a set of ButchBuilt (RIP) frame horn and steering plates when I did mine. I thought that there was someone who continued to sell this style. Mudrak maybe?

When in doubt, add more steel. Then add more power. Repeat.

Decker's Land Cruiser Restoration & Accessories sells the Butch Lewis designed steering bracket, as well as some other products designed by BL. A portion of sales goes to Butch's widow.

Decker's Land Cruiser Products

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...That crossmember shouldn't really need to do much more than hold the radiator in a somewhat close position after you finish frame horn reinforcement and build a "real" front bumper...

x2 haystax, thats what I was referring to when I originally posted a while back. With a good stout bumper, frame flex is not an issue...

I've gotta disagree guys. I've seen cracks on frames with extremely stout front bumpers. While the distance between the front bumper and that cross-member is relatively short, get a 40 twisted up on some rocks and you'll be able to see some substantial twist in the frame. Thats not to say its going suffer a failure but again I've seen enough cracked frames there to make me think twice about the way a Saginaw swap should be done. The tube is cheap and post install looks very clean imo.

 

[haystax]

I've gotta disagree guys. I've seen cracks on frames with extremely stout front bumpers. While the distance between the front bumper and that cross-member is relatively short, get a 40 twisted up on some rocks and you'll be able to see some substantial twist in the frame. Thats not to say its going suffer a failure but again I've seen enough cracked frames there to make me think twice about the way a Saginaw swap should be done. The tube is cheap and post install looks very clean imo.

I'm sure it can't hurt and it would look a little cleaner that is for sure - sometimes it's tough to say "when" though and I think that reinforcing the crossmember is a good plan for those who don't have a very robust kit

Keep up the good work!

 

[65swb45]

x2 haystax, thats what I was referring to when I originally posted a while back. With a good stout bumper, frame flex is not an issue. Adjusting steering box placement for optimum performance is critical including, but not limited, to parallel steering rods and as straight a shot from the column, will help high dollar steering ujoints last.

...or put another way, don't let the tail wag the dog. Do as many mock ups as you can until you are SURE the placement of the box is optimized.

In your case, the spud shaft throws an added element of uncertainty to the equation, as it is virtually impossible to get one to rotate 'cleanly' on its axis without a pillow block.

So then it creates clearance issues with the motor mounts, as it needs a whole AREA to rotate in. Which is all the more reason to do LOTS of mock ups.

FWIW, I do not use spud shafts.

Best

Mark A.