Quick before my valves cool....how to find TDC? (1 Viewer)

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ahhhh should have looked this up before...my manual is lost at sea..ssooo how do i find TDC???? on the flywheel? where is the window thingy?

thanks...
 
lowtideride said:
ahhhh should have looked this up before...my manual is lost at sea..ssooo how do i find TDC???? on the flywheel? where is the window thingy?

thanks...

pass side of engine/trans
it may have a cover on it
as your looking back at the trans it will be on the upper left corner
it's about a 1x1 square opening
hope this helps
 
how do i tell then? i thought there was a line you could see? im having trouble seeing it as i bump it over...
 
lowtideride said:
how do i tell then? i thought there was a line you could see? im having trouble seeing it as i bump it over...

if you have no line or pointer on the case/window tdc will be at the center of the window.
hard to see ball is on the flywheel

in colorado,i time my engines where you just see the ball on the left hand side of the window.
thats for 6000 feet
 
remove plugs and turn motor with a ratchet, when pressed ball bearing is lined up and the #1 cylinder is at TDC.
 
sportbiker929 said:
remove plugs and turn motor with a ratchet, when pressed ball bearing is lined up and the #1 cylinder is at TDC.


what he said ;)
 
both valves will be loose on #1 when it is at TDC compression
 
BTW, that little bb is 8* before TDC ;)
 
im having a hell of a time trying to find the TDC on the flywheel...from what ive read its a line but i cant find it....butttt cant you take the cap off the dizzy and when the rotor hits the 1 spark plug mark "thats TDC"????
 
Yes..
 
ahhh i was too slow...to get to tdc and dint want to adj. the valves while it was just warm...

two things...

a) i want to remove all that emissions crap so its easier to work on crap..

b) what do you guys use to clean up the valve cover??? i just used gas and go it kinda clean...
 
TDC is frustrating after 200k of crap builds up in the engine bay. I removed the #1 plug and while turning the large nut (crank) on the front of the engine would jump up to check where line was on the fly wheel. If I could see the line then I would shine a flash light into the plug hole and look for the piston. If I was at TDC then the line would be lined up and the piston is at the top of it's stroke. I was careful not to turn the crack so I was 180 degrees out. This has worked for my numerous times. BTW, finger nail polish remover really cuts the shelack that deposits from the hot cold routine.
 
Gumby said:
Yikes! gas is not a cleaning agent, grasshopper.


mothers aluminum polish.


huh? owell...it was just a rag with some gas on it...and it rubbed most of the grease off..




can i just adjust the valves when the rotor is at the #1 spark plug then turn the engine over agian til it hits #1 spark pulg on the dizzy?

there was so much crap and crud in the way i could not see the line..

what size is the nut on the crank? the reason i dint try that is beacuse i dint think i had the right size....somthing like 42 mm or somthing...
 
pull valve cover.
turn engine over till either the front valves are
loose OR the back set.
you can then do half of the valves(that would be the loose ones)
turn engine over one complete time
do other half of valves.
 
That nut on the front is oh... 60mm! I used large pipe pliers. I am unsure about just turning it over. If you want to be accurate you'll want TDC on #1. If the engine bay is all cruddy maybe pressure wash just door area where you would read the line. It also helps to have a friend turn the nut while you look for the piston and line.
 
If you can't see the line, pull the inspection cover - a remote starter button would help here a lot - and you should be able to bump it around until you see it. When you find it, take a little white paint and mark TDC with a line, and mark the BB with a dot. (This is the one thing that the PO had done correctly on my truck) - that will make your life easier.
 
Excellent suggestion. I think i'll mark mine next time i'm in there.
 

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