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Oh man…that’s your hi-Li selector. Most likely the post it sits on is inside the case. They tend to slip down if not connected to the linkage. Good time for a T-case refresh. The second pic is the bottom of your parking brake. That oil is most likely residual oil slung by a leaking seal on your rear output. Would be resolved with the t-case rebuild.Hello all,
I was fiddling around under my cruiser last night looking at all the bushings, and screws, etc... to try to solve the shaking issue. Anyways, as I was looking around under the car, I found a couple of items that caught my attention.
#1 - I found this linkage piece over the transfer case that it was just hanging there. Never seen it before, so I am sure it needs to be reconnected to something.
see pic:
View attachment 2829470View attachment 2829471
Does anyone have a clue as of why this is the case? meaning, is there something broken, or maybe it just needs to be reconnected in some way? I mean, i hope is nothing serious as of why it happened.
this little rubber boot too, looks like it is toasted and have some cracks and holes.
View attachment 2829473
you can see the a little piece broken on the picture.
and
#2 - I saw a little bit of oil coming out of this thing. Not sure what it is.
View attachment 2829472
Anyways, just asking questions hoping to solve issues before something bad happens.
Thanks!
J+
Oh ok. so the Hi-Lo selector needs to be connect to a pin (of sorts), ok. got it. And that conector might be inside the T-case, Correct?Oh man…that’s your hi-Li selector. Most likely the post it sits on is inside the case. They tend to slip down if not connected to the linkage. Good time for a T-case refresh. The second pic is the bottom of your parking brake. That oil is most likely residual oil slung by a leaking seal on your rear output. Would be resolved with the t-case rebuild.
Yeah, I see the linkage there. That is it. I do not know if they pin is still there or not. I did not pay attention to it. I can look today and see if i can see it, to determine if it is inside the case.
Thanks!So it is a job that can be done in the garage. Only specialty tools I can think of would be a press (harbor freight), pilot bearing type puller and a c-clip tool. As CD stated (@ceylonfj40nut ), you may be able to lift the rod with a magnet. The red arrow points to what needs to be pulled up so you can attach the selector to it. I’d remove the selector from the linkage to make it easier to maneuver. View attachment 2829576
You can source the boot. But that’s not a critical point. There’s a seal underneath it that keeps oil from leaking. With the other leaks you described, I’d focus on them. Most likely your output seals (front & rear). @cruisermatt can knock out a t-case rebuild and I believe he’s fairly close to you.Thanks!
Got it. I will see if I can "fish it" out with a magnet if it is not there in place today.
Also, do they sell that rubber boot? (the one shown on this picture) or that is one of those things, that it is super hard to find?
That is the one I said is broken and toasted on the Tcase.
Thanks for the help!
If it’s leaking under that boot, the seal is fairly easy to replace as well. Don’t know your mileage, but if no one has ever been in that case a rebuild kit would most likely be the best way to go. Then it will look like this when you put it back inYou can source the boot. But that’s not a critical point. There’s a seal underneath it that keeps oil from leaking. With the other leaks you described, I’d focus on them. Most likely your output seals (front & rear). @cruisermatt can knock out a t-case rebuild and I believe he’s fairly close to you.
Thanks,You can source the boot. But that’s not a critical point. There’s a seal underneath it that keeps oil from leaking. With the other leaks you described, I’d focus on them. Most likely your output seals (front & rear). @cruisermatt can knock out a t-case rebuild and I believe he’s fairly close to you.
Wow!!! that looks almost new!If it’s leaking under that boot, the seal is fairly easy to replace as well. Don’t know your mileage, but if no one has ever been in that case a rebuild kit would most likely be the best way to go. Then it will look like this when you put it back in
View attachment 2829584
View attachment 2829585
My cheap ass won’t pay for a vapor honing machine (spelling?), so that’s a result of using a power washer, parts washer then a heavy duty cycle with the dishwasher. In that order. One day I’ll upgradeWow!!! that looks almost new!
Nice work!
I would love to do that on mine for sure. I don't think is a bad idea at all.
Thanks,
Man, this sucks.
Yeah, I hear you..., not sure my wife will say the same but, I get it. lol.Not if you view this as an opportunity to improve your tired Cruiser. Rebuild that sucker, stop the leaks, and make it work as intended. GL.
That looks great to me!My cheap ass won’t pay for a vapor honing machine (spelling?), so that’s a result of using a power washer, parts washer then a heavy duty cycle with the dishwasher. In that order. One day I’ll upgrade
Ye he is! super nice guy and super helpful!@cruisermatt is a pro. You are in good hands if you want to take this route.
@cruisermatt LOL!!! come on man! lol. I got you.Here is the kit I found...
It looks like it has everything including the rubber boot is broken.
Thanks,