Questions Regarding a FJ60 Restoration - Orlando, Fl. - Help needed (1 Viewer)

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See pic below

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Hello all,

I was fiddling around under my cruiser last night looking at all the bushings, and screws, etc... to try to solve the shaking issue. Anyways, as I was looking around under the car, I found a couple of items that caught my attention.
#1 - I found this linkage piece over the transfer case that it was just hanging there. Never seen it before, so I am sure it needs to be reconnected to something.
see pic:

View attachment 2829470View attachment 2829471
Does anyone have a clue as of why this is the case? meaning, is there something broken, or maybe it just needs to be reconnected in some way? I mean, i hope is nothing serious as of why it happened.
this little rubber boot too, looks like it is toasted and have some cracks and holes.

View attachment 2829473
you can see the a little piece broken on the picture.

and
#2 - I saw a little bit of oil coming out of this thing. Not sure what it is.
View attachment 2829472

Anyways, just asking questions hoping to solve issues before something bad happens.

Thanks!
J+
Oh man…that’s your hi-Li selector. Most likely the post it sits on is inside the case. They tend to slip down if not connected to the linkage. Good time for a T-case refresh. The second pic is the bottom of your parking brake. That oil is most likely residual oil slung by a leaking seal on your rear output. Would be resolved with the t-case rebuild.
 
Oh man…that’s your hi-Li selector. Most likely the post it sits on is inside the case. They tend to slip down if not connected to the linkage. Good time for a T-case refresh. The second pic is the bottom of your parking brake. That oil is most likely residual oil slung by a leaking seal on your rear output. Would be resolved with the t-case rebuild.
Oh ok. so the Hi-Lo selector needs to be connect to a pin (of sorts), ok. got it. And that conector might be inside the T-case, Correct?
Ok, so do I need to take the transfer case out to do that? looks like there are several leaks coming from different places like differentials, and wheels.

So, I am sure the transfer case linkage does not have anything to do with the shaking, but could there be a connection?

keep in mind I am not a mechanic, with little mechanical experience. Is this transfer case rebuilt, something "easy to do" (Or at least relative easy to do, meaning on a house garage with no specialty tools, etc.) ??

I am willing to put the time into it, if it is doable, jus not sure I can do all that.


Thanks,
 
So it is a job that can be done in the garage. Only specialty tools I can think of would be a press (harbor freight), pilot bearing type puller and a c-clip tool. As CD stated (@ceylonfj40nut ), you may be able to lift the rod with a magnet. The red arrow points to what needs to be pulled up so you can attach the selector to it. I’d remove the selector from the linkage to make it easier to maneuver.
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So it is a job that can be done in the garage. Only specialty tools I can think of would be a press (harbor freight), pilot bearing type puller and a c-clip tool. As CD stated (@ceylonfj40nut ), you may be able to lift the rod with a magnet. The red arrow points to what needs to be pulled up so you can attach the selector to it. I’d remove the selector from the linkage to make it easier to maneuver. View attachment 2829576
Thanks!
Got it. I will see if I can "fish it" out with a magnet if it is not there in place today.
Also, do they sell that rubber boot? (the one shown on this picture) or that is one of those things, that it is super hard to find?
That is the one I said is broken and toasted on the Tcase.

Thanks for the help!
 
Thanks!
Got it. I will see if I can "fish it" out with a magnet if it is not there in place today.
Also, do they sell that rubber boot? (the one shown on this picture) or that is one of those things, that it is super hard to find?
That is the one I said is broken and toasted on the Tcase.

Thanks for the help!
You can source the boot. But that’s not a critical point. There’s a seal underneath it that keeps oil from leaking. With the other leaks you described, I’d focus on them. Most likely your output seals (front & rear). @cruisermatt can knock out a t-case rebuild and I believe he’s fairly close to you.
 
You can source the boot. But that’s not a critical point. There’s a seal underneath it that keeps oil from leaking. With the other leaks you described, I’d focus on them. Most likely your output seals (front & rear). @cruisermatt can knock out a t-case rebuild and I believe he’s fairly close to you.
If it’s leaking under that boot, the seal is fairly easy to replace as well. Don’t know your mileage, but if no one has ever been in that case a rebuild kit would most likely be the best way to go. Then it will look like this when you put it back in

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You can source the boot. But that’s not a critical point. There’s a seal underneath it that keeps oil from leaking. With the other leaks you described, I’d focus on them. Most likely your output seals (front & rear). @cruisermatt can knock out a t-case rebuild and I believe he’s fairly close to you.
Thanks,
Yes, Cruisermatt is close to me, he has actually been to my house a couple of times last year to help. He is just too busy these days (I gather) because of moving his shop and such. I contacted him a couple of weeks ago, and he told me he was going to let me know, but nothing yet.

I do not know if the rubber boot is leaking there or not. I had the cruiser for like 20 years and I have never done anything to the tcase.
I don't think a full rebuilt is a bad idea, I just need to put that on the list of things to do.
I feel like I fix one thing, and 3 more go bad.
I just replaced the speedometer cable, and fix the sending unit issue I had with the fuel. Still working on the shaking (that I can't figure it out, most likely the tires and shocks) and as I am trying to work on that, I get this! lol. so, I am frustrated to say the least, but I understand it is the nature of it.

Right now, the priority is the shaking #1 and then this tcase work #2, then the leaks on the differentials and front wheels hubs and stuff as a #3.
Anyways, looking a rebuilt kit now to see how much it is and to see how to get that started.


Thanks,
 
If it’s leaking under that boot, the seal is fairly easy to replace as well. Don’t know your mileage, but if no one has ever been in that case a rebuild kit would most likely be the best way to go. Then it will look like this when you put it back in

View attachment 2829584

View attachment 2829585
Wow!!! that looks almost new!
Nice work!

I would love to do that on mine for sure. I don't think is a bad idea at all.

Thanks,
 
Wow!!! that looks almost new!
Nice work!

I would love to do that on mine for sure. I don't think is a bad idea at all.

Thanks,
My cheap ass won’t pay for a vapor honing machine (spelling?), so that’s a result of using a power washer, parts washer then a heavy duty cycle with the dishwasher. In that order. One day I’ll upgrade :)
 
Not if you view this as an opportunity to improve your tired Cruiser. Rebuild that sucker, stop the leaks, and make it work as intended. GL.
Yeah, I hear you..., not sure my wife will say the same but, I get it. lol.
No, seriously, thanks. I would love to. I guess that will be the next project after the shaking issue is resolved.

Thanks,
 
My cheap ass won’t pay for a vapor honing machine (spelling?), so that’s a result of using a power washer, parts washer then a heavy duty cycle with the dishwasher. In that order. One day I’ll upgrade :)
That looks great to me!
I mean compared to mine, that is new! lol.

Great work
 
@cruisermatt is a pro. You are in good hands if you want to take this route.
 
Hello all,
I rotated the tires and painted the wheel wells with Rustoleum undercoating.
I pressure washed under the truck first, wire brushed it, and painted.

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I also targeted the first rust spot with a welder. More pictures of that to come.
Looked OK, but my welding skills are definitely nonexistent. lol.
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I did this little square with 22 ga sheet metal just to try. after some grinding sanding and bondo, looked ok for primer and paint.

Trying to get the rust UNDER CONTROL. it is so hard to do.
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More pics on the next post.
 
Here is the before.

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You can see the rust starting to come out of the paint.

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Got a piece of sheet metal to match.
Screenshot_20211123-124533_Gallery[1].jpg

Welded it (or tried to) in place.
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and them, sanded, bondo, primer and paint.
this is the after. (paint does not match, but I don't care about the color for now, just want the rust gone)

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I got a color that is close to what I have, I have to paint it next.

I am going to try to do the tailgate next. The entire tailgate bottom is rusted. Need that under control.
I learned a few things, especially about welding and the welder's settings. Good to know.

Thanks,

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Screenshot_20211123-124450_Gallery[2].jpg


Screenshot_20211123-124624_Gallery[1].jpg


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