questions on knuckel rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 23, 2004
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deep south TX
well finaly dug into the rebuild. looks like PO had done some work on the nuckles. the adjusting nut was fubar, like they tightened it with a hammer and chisel. my question is; how many shims are ther suppossed to be? my knuckle has two on top and one on the bottom. is this correct? another question. the wheel bearing seal goes rubber faceing bearing or rubber faceing truck?

thanks
 
The hammered/chiseled thing is the locking nut, which is supposed to be locked that way (you'll need to do the same, with the new one you got in your kit). You lock it so the inner adjusting nut doesn't move. Two notches hammered in and one out (or two out) ought to make it nice and tight. That work you're seeing could have been from Toyota or a PO. It's the correct method.

Keep the shims in their order (label bags for top right, top left, bottom right, etc..) if there were no problems with the Cruiser before. The shim order is important and you don't want to mess it up. Keeping it as-is is a safe bet. And two on top one on bottom sounds correct.

Oh.. and the rubber facing wheel / bearing (with the little open end/spring sided end going towards the inside of the truck.

Good luck!
Jason
 
Quantity of shims (on top and on bottom ) of knuckle is not fixed; the total thickness is the important point.
Just keep top , bottom , left, right, pieces together...should be OK
( shims are more for variability of knuckle housing fabrication than to compensate for different bearings)

As for wheel bearing grease seal, metal backing faces out; that is, towards knuckle....rubbery side faces greasy bearing :)
 
I know the star looking thing locks the two nuts together. The tabs bend down and up to lock the adjusting nut to the inner nut. The nut itself needs to be tightened with a chisle and hammer? I thought all I had to use was a torque wrench and my shiny 2 1/8 craftsman socket. Well the PO had installed the wheel bearing seal the wrong way (rubber out, toward truck). I tried insatlling the same way and a spring thingy came out of the seal. Have to go to dealer and buy new one.

Gracias
 
Chances are the PO didn't have the right size socket to adjust the wheel bearing nut. You can loosen and tighten these by using a chisel and hammer and tapping the nut around.
When I did my rebuild I did the same at first till I got a socket. As for you other questions, you might try down loading the FSM from birfield.com. It has picts of the process. It really helped me.
HTH
Andy
 

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