Questions before I buy this LX 470 with some rust [long]. I have lurked for a while here. (1 Viewer)

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UPDATE on 100 #3 in my quest (the craigslist LX you guys pointed out to me earlier for 10.5k):

Decided not to go through with that vehicle. It looks spotless, probably the cleanest one I've seen so far, so it's not about that. In fact, that vehicle seems pretty awesome.

I have decided to avoid AHC due to the comparative simplicity of the regular suspension and the higher likelihood of more-expensive repairs in the AHC models. I do realize that AHC has a lot of benefits, but after extensive research it just gives me the heebie jeebies.

I also considered the cost of just swapping out an AHC setup with an OME kit or regular LC parts, but that would put me at $2k higher, right off the bat, and that's not my goal here.

Since all LXs have AHC, I have narrowed my search to 2001-2002 non-nav Land Cruisers only (need 2001+ for the LATCH carseat tethers and most 2003+ models have nav).

Secondarily, I would consider a 2003-2007 Land Cruiser without AHC and "suck it up" and deal with the OEM nav unit if it were otherwise a perfect example.

The search continues. Thank you all for your support in helping me figure this out!
 
Also, totally off-topic, but has anyone had trouble getting financing for an older vehicle like this or know what banks are a bit friendlier about it? I can pay cash but I'd certainly finance it if the rates were good.

Contact Pentagon Federal Credit Union. They do alot of older auto financing.
 
UPDATE on 100 #3 in my quest (the craigslist LX you guys pointed out to me earlier for 10.5k):

Decided not to go through with that vehicle. It looks spotless, probably the cleanest one I've seen so far, so it's not about that. In fact, that vehicle seems pretty awesome.

I have decided to avoid AHC due to the comparative simplicity of the regular suspension and the higher likelihood of more-expensive repairs in the AHC models. I do realize that AHC has a lot of benefits, but after extensive research it just gives me the heebie jeebies.

I also considered the cost of just swapping out an AHC setup with an OME kit or regular LC parts, but that would put me at $2k higher, right off the bat, and that's not my goal here.

Since all LXs have AHC, I have narrowed my search to 2001-2002 non-nav Land Cruisers only (need 2001+ for the LATCH carseat tethers and most 2003+ models have nav).

Secondarily, I would consider a 2003-2007 Land Cruiser without AHC and "suck it up" and deal with the OEM nav unit if it were otherwise a perfect example.

The search continues. Thank you all for your support in helping me figure this out!

FWIW....the trouble with excluding LX's from your search list is that you might run into what I did...when searching for a vehicle. You cut your prospects in half.

I live within a few hours drive of several large Metroplex. So my prospects might be better...BUT when I was searching, I was looking for just a straight up Land Cruiser. What I ran into (having located dozens of each) was that the Land Cruisers were higher priced than the LX's had greater mileage, less documented maintenance, were generally 'rougher' and were fewer in number. So I started looking at LX's as well.

Well..it didn't take me long to find a two owner (both ladies), rust free, immaculate LX with good (Lexus Dealer) service history for about $2K less than LC's were going for. The choice was not hard to make after that.

I hope you find what you are looking for. For me...the AHC has not been a problem and I like the system, but everyone's needs/wants are different.
 
FWIW....the trouble with excluding LX's from your search list is that you might run into what I did...when searching for a vehicle. You cut your prospects in half.

That is true, I don't deny that at all. Narrowing the search is going to make it harder. I'd rather expand my horizons and look, say, in Texas or Florida, buy a plane ticket and drive back to find the right one.

I guess I should make one amendment to that proposal... if it's an LX that has already been converted and it drives well on the conversion. There are a lot of things I don't mind maintaining or fixing on my own, though. I suppose just not that stuff.
 
That is true, I don't deny that at all. Narrowing the search is going to make it harder. I'd rather expand my horizons and look, say, in Texas or Florida, buy a plane ticket and drive back to find the right one.

^^^^^ Excellent idea. That would open up your market area and also increase your chances of finding a rust free (literally) vehicle. But always get undercarriage pics.
 
always get undercarriage pics.

That was literally the first thing I learned here, lol. It's the first question I've asked in every email to a craigslist seller, no joke.

No pics = me no care.
 
I guess I should make one amendment to that proposal... if it's an LX that has already been converted and it drives well on the conversion. There are a lot of things I don't mind maintaining or fixing on my own, though. I suppose just not that stuff.

An LX converted to an OE LC suspension is going to drive like an LC. If you don't like the way a converted LX drives you're not going to like the way an LC drives either. I think you're grossly overestimating the cost and complexity of a conversion. And remember that a converted LX has a new LC suspension, not an old tired one, plus better leather, better sound insulation, better (often) service history, a few other meaningful features, and some gadgets and gimmicks, a) a few of which you'll probably like, and b) most of which don't have to fixed when they break. When an LX gadget breaks you just say to yourself "eh, another LX feature converted to an LC."
 
An LX converted to an OE LC suspension is going to drive like an LC. If you don't like the way a converted LX drives you're not going to like the way an LC drives either. I think you're grossly overestimating the cost and complexity of a conversion. And remember that a converted LX has a new LC suspension, not an old tired one, plus better leather, better sound insulation, better (often) service history, and some gadgets and gimmicks, a) a few of which you'll probably like, and b) most of which don't have to fixed when they break. When an LX gadget breaks you just say to yourself "eh, another LX feature converted to an LC."

I totally understand that it's going to be a new suspension, better than a worn out one on a LC for sure. I'm fine with the ride of a LC, although the LX seemed less jiggly.

Am I overestimating the cost? I figure it's realistically $2k to have someone else do it with OEM (or OME) stuff, right?
 
not trying to high jack the thread here, but what is the issue with the NAV system on these early LC's?
and or why is it better to get it replaced with a double din unit? or aftermarket?

Sort of in the same boat at the OP, growing family + 2 dogs, and have a 2002 4Runner, looking to get some thing a little bigger just trying to learn more as well.
 
not trying to high jack the thread here, but what is the issue with the NAV system on these early LC's?
and or why is it better to get it replaced with a double din unit? or aftermarket?

Sort of in the same boat at the OP, growing family + 2 dogs, and have a 2002 4Runner, looking to get some thing a little bigger just trying to learn more as well.

I'm new here but I may as well start contributing....

From everything I understand, the wiring is such that non-nav stereos are more easily swapped. You'll still be running through the stock amp even if you put a double-DIN in, but it's still easier.

The problem with the nav is that it's wired into the HVAC. There is a huge thread for pre-03 and 03+ models here where some ambitious people rewired things to make it work, but the problem that I now understand is that parts are scarce (and on the 03+ models cost over a grand just for the swap parts).

Point is, if you have any interest in upgrading the stereo, stick with non-nav for your sanity.
 
Thanks for the feedback. So if you dont care about the nav, and don't care about sound output, then your fine with whatever model. But if you dont want nav, and do want better sound quality, you want to look at non-nav cars.
 
Thanks for the feedback. So if you dont care about the nav, and don't care about sound output, then your fine with whatever model. But if you dont want nav, and do want better sound quality, you want to look at non-nav cars.

Or if you're like me, you'll get a non-nav car and install an Apple Carplay double-DIN stereo and use the on-screen nav that burns through my phone's data plan :)
 
Am I overestimating the cost? I figure it's realistically $2k to have someone else do it with OEM (or OME) stuff, right?

I think you are not far off depending upon what components you order and who you have install it.

Many folks go with an aftermarket 'kit' (Two Torsion Bars, Rear Coil Springs & 4 Shock Absorbers) as opposed to buying individual OEM (factory) parts. There are many good kits out there and I would wager more folks doing the swap...use name brand aftermarket kits than go OEM.

But...you can figure on roughly $800.00-$1100.00 for parts (depending on what you chose) and then you'll have labor to remove the old parts, install the new and I would advise an alignment afterward.

So...shopping the 'labor' is probably where the savings is to be had (if any). I would NOT have a dealer do this work. Any decent 'indy' should be capable of the swap. Certainly any 4x4 or off-road shop.

But I agree that allowing $2K for the parts and swap is a comfortable amount to figure in.
 
Am I overestimating the cost? I figure it's realistically $2k to have someone else do it with OEM (or OME) stuff, right?

Way too high. Genuine OE Toyota parts is under $500 and that's only because the OE springs are so expensive. With OME springs the cost goes down by a couple hundred to under $300. Plus you get to sell your AHC parts on Ebay. First time DIYer should be a day, experienced pro maybe 4 or 5 hours. Find a moonlighter and it should be $300 or so, $400 at most. But watch the videos - there's no way you're going to let anyone else do it - too much fun.
 
Way too high. Genuine OE Toyota parts is under $500 and that's only because the OE springs are so expensive. With OME springs the cost goes down by a couple hundred to under $300. Plus you get to sell your AHC parts on Ebay. First time DIYer should be a day, experienced pro maybe 4 or 5 hours. Find a moonlighter and it should be $300 or so, $400 at most. But watch the videos - there's no way you're going to let anyone else do it - too much fun.


^^^^^
Please show us where you are sourcing OE Toyota so reasonably. A cursory look (ToyotaPartsDeal) gave me the following (less any taxes or shipping). NOTE**** These part numbers might not be the most current or correct for all vehicles (1999 Land Cruiser).

(2) Rear Shock Absorber 48531-69557 $39.68 ($79.36)

(2) Front Shock Absorber 48511-69585 $35.91 ($71.82)

(1) Coil Spring 48231-6A680 LAND CRUISER; RIGHT; 498MM $190.09

(1) Coil Spring 48231-6A690 LAND CRUISER; LEFT; 504MM $195.68

(1) Torsion Bar 48162-60030 LAND CRUISER; LEFT $353.87

(1) Torsion Bar 48161-60030 LAND CRUISER; RIGHT $353.57

Total: $1244.69
 
^ and there’s about another $140 in front and rear shock retainer plates too. It all adds up.
 
^ and there’s about another $140 in front and rear shock retainer plates too. It all adds up.

^^^^ Yep.

Then add shipping if not purchased locally, taxes if you do purchase locally and then it would not be a bad idea to have the vehicle aligned after the swap.
 
^^^^ Yep.

Then add shipping if not purchased locally, taxes if you do purchase locally and then it would not be a bad idea to have the vehicle aligned after the swap.

I can't fathom the idea of putting on a new suspension and then skimping on a $100 alignment. I get one every time I buy tires.
 
I can't fathom the idea of putting on a new suspension and then skimping on a $100 alignment. I get one every time I buy tires.

Smart Man!
 

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