Questions about moving from an 80 to a 100

[riffman12]

Hey guys,

Been hanging out in the 80 section for about a year now (don't tell them I'm here ). This has been my noble steed, '97 FZJ80 with 167k on the clock. Always been a California car. Mainly stock minus the rack, powder coated wheels, 33" Wildpeak AT3Ws, OME 862 springs in the back:

I've been eyeing a 100 series for a while now. I like the idea of something a little more comfortable and powerful for longer journeys, especially going up the mountains where the 80 really struggles on climbs.

I have some questions about the 100 platform, specifically the '00-'02 4 speeds.

1) For those of you who have driven both platforms, does the 100 handle mountain climbs better? By the time I put 33's on the 80, I was maxing out at about 45-50mph near the top of Donner Summit on Highway 80. Can the V8 torque hold these things at a comfortable 65-75mph up climbs like that?

2) Is the answer the same with 285/75/16 tires? I noticed a big hit on the 80 when I went up in tire size. Can I still expect the 100 to get out of its own way with 33's?

3) The cooling system was always a bit finicky on the 80 platform. Does the 100 handle long climbs in hot weather pretty well without worrying about fan clutch viscosity and constantly monitoring coolant temps?

4) I have my eye on an LX470 with 200k on the clock which is more miles than any vehicle I've ever owned. However, it looks immaculate and the PO has a 3" binder of service records all from the Lexus Dealer. Sounds like he really pampered it. Anything I should be looking for at that mileage other than obvious things? Anything I should be concerned about with that many miles?

Thanks guys! And if anyone in the SF Bay Area is considering trading their clean 100 series for an 80, let me know!

 

[Igoteyedeas]

DO IT! I've been driving my '99 Land Cruiser for about 2.5 years now (241,xxx on the ODO) with 33" tires, 1.5" lift, Ironman Bumper, etc so I'll provide some insights. That said, someone that came from an 80 will have a much more valuable POV regarding your exact situation:

1) I'll let an 80-person settle this, but in my own experience driving in the mountains, the torque from the V8 keeps the truck moving without any issues or feelings of being underpowered.

2) Again, this is a gearing issue, but if you stomp on it even the 4-speed isn't a complete pig. I'm now finding myself wishing I had bought a 03+ just to get that 5-speed. Better yet, get a 06-07 and take advantages of the VVTi and the extra ~50hp.

3) I've done a lot of mountain driving in various seasons, as well as long hauls across the desert at 70+ MPH and have never had any cooling issues.

4) You hear it time and time again on here, but mileage shouldn't scare you if it's got the proper maintenance records. When I bought mine it had 230k on the clock and the owner wasn't entirely on top of his maintenance. Still, the only major issue I've had with mine was a blown front diff due to driver error and the weaker 2-pinion diff in the 98-99's. Aside from that though, the usual stuff like timing belt/water pump, a couple of blown CV boots (expected due to changing the axle geometry w/ lift on old CV's), a couple of bad coil packs and some peeling clear coat — this truck feels like it'll last for many years to come.

One thing that I will note at 200K or more, is to take a serious look at all of the bushings. I recently just upgraded the upper control arms, all sway bar bushings and the rear 4-link bars (MetalTech) and it drives like a brand new truck again. Not to mention it actually got rid of the rest of my driveline "thunk". Highly recommended for all of you high mileage guys if you want to give your Cruiser a well deserved refresh.

Hindsight being 20-20, I would buy an 03-04 with the stronger front diff and VSC, add my own locker to the rear and call it a day. But I still love my 99 and plan on keeping it forever. An LX with 200k that's been well taken care of is a great starting point. Best of luck!

 

[flintknapper]

We don't have mountain 'climbs' where I live, like what you describe, but I can tell that my 99 LX is a much more capable vehicle on the highway and up the 'hills' we have around here. I have similar mileage on mine now...and it has plenty of power. Never gets hot.

We never go on road trips in the 80 anymore since purchasing the LX, the difference is night and day. Yes, I know if you look at the the HP and Torque figures (on paper) there is not that much difference. But REAL WORLD (seat of the pants) performance will have me choosing the LX/100 series every time (on the road).

 

[Ohthetrees]

I took a heavily loaded 2001 over some passes in the Sierra Nevada, and some long off pavement climbs through Death Valley. Cooling system is a strong point of this truck in my opinion, never saw the temperature gage waver.

Power is very subjective, but I feel it is more than adequate, even over big passes. But then again it doesn’t freak me out to let the engine rev, that’s where it makes the most horsepower, why not use it? Drivers of more modern vehicles feel like something is wrong if they are over 3500 rpm because they have so much horsepower and torque to spare. Truck was very heavily loaded, maintained 65 mph without trouble.

I have 33 inch tires and the four-speed, and find that everything works better if I give “hints” to the transmission, especially when I’m heavily loaded. I use the PWR button, the overdrive button, and feel free to shift into “2” or “L” if necessary. Once you get the hang of it, you can pretty much choose what gear your truck will be in at any given time, it’s almost like a manual. On a long highway climb I prefer to downshift using the OD button or shift lever rather than by pushing the throttle harder. If I let it do its own thing, it will start to feel bogged down and under powered, keeping 4th gear for too long, especially heavily loaded with 33 inch tires.

I wouldn’t be at all concerned about high mileage if it’s well-maintained. Change the heater tees ASAP, it does not appear in the maintenance schedule, and this $12 part can leave you stranded in an otherwise well-maintained truck. Change every 100,000 miles in my opinion.

Go for it, 100 is my favorite LC, I think you will like it.

 

[C6H12O6]

I went from a '95 80 with an engine that was giving up the ghost to a '07 100 with only 82K miles on the odometer. Here is my take on your questions:

1) I have the later VVTI motor with the 5-speed, but the power difference between the two trucks was night-and-day. The 4.7L engine, particularly mated with the 5-speed, is more than enough to power a loaded-down 100 up the mountains. I just did a big OR-CA-OR road trip last summer. Loaded up with 2 weeks worth of camping gear, a fridge, rear cargo system, etc. and it never felt like I didn't have what I needed in the mountains.

2) I noticed the same hit to my 80 every time I put something else on. With the rear storage system and fridge and sliders, I barely noticed any difference on the 100. I recently changed from 255/70-18 Michelin LTX M/S2 tires to BFG 275/70-18 AT KO2s and noticed it right away... for about two days. I'm now used to it and hardly notice it. The 5-speed and the 4.7L still get her down the road and up the mountains just fine. I do notice that I have my foot in it a little more often and MPG suffered a bit, but the ride quality, traction, and extra lift more than make up for any loss in MPG and braking.

3) No question, the 80 cooling system sucks unless properly maintained. Additionally, "properly maintained" means replacing everything in the system and upgrading the fan clutch. The 100 cooling system is amazing. I ran fully loaded and towing a boat all over the Rockies two summer ago in >95° F heat with the AC cranked and going way too fast up the grades through the bleak center of ID. The UltraGauge showed barely a five degree increase. Day in, day out, it runs at 185° F nearly all the time. No worries.

4) I'm a terrible person to ask about buying a higher-mileage 100, as I paid $25K for a really low mile truck two years ago, but I'm glad I did it. Many of the issues I see people dealing with on higher mileage trucks are the same types of things I was dealing with on my 80 for years. I was tired of chasing cooling issues, rotten bushings in the suspension, tired seats, old hoses, etc. I figured the premium I paid was the cost of being able to just drive the truck for a decade before I had to start dealing with all of that again. Totally worth it to me. Might not be to you, but recognize that you pay one way or another.

Overall, I really like the 100. I don't love it in the same way I did the 80, but I don't hate it in the same ways, either. The 80 just had something about it that I loved. I felt like I could go anywhere with it. I didn't feel that way at first about the 100, but I have to say that it's a much more capable truck for all but the hardest wheeling I did with the 80. Rock wheeling aside, the 100 is a superior truck in every way. And, adding the 33" tires make a huge difference in making it feel like a Cruiser. If you're serious about buying a 100, try to drive both the earlier 4-speed and later 5-speed trucks before you buy one. Good luck!

 

[flintknapper]

Power is very subjective, but I feel it is more than adequate, even over big passes. But then again it doesn’t freak me out to let the engine rev, that’s where it makes the most horsepower, why not use it? Drivers of more modern vehicles feel like something is wrong if they are over 3500 rpm because they have so much horsepower and torque to spare.

I have 33 inch tires and the four-speed, and find that everything works better if I give “hints” to the transmission, especially when I’m heavily loaded. I use the PWR button, the overdrive button, and feel free to shift into “2” or “L” if necessary. Once you get the hang of it, you can pretty much choose what gear your truck will be in at any given time, it’s almost like a manual. On a long highway climb I prefer to downshift using the OD button or shift lever rather than by pushing the throttle harder. If I let it do its own thing, it will start to feel bogged down and under powered, keeping 4th gear for too long, especially heavily loaded with 33 inch tires.

.

^^^^^^^^^

My experience exactly. Excellent synopsis, Sir.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Search "80 100", limit to titles only, limit to 100 section only. Lots of good threads to read.

 

[riffman12]

Thanks a lot, guys. Great feedback.

As much as I'll miss the giant hunk or steel of an axle in the front, I like what I' hearing here. I'll be checking out this LX on the weekend if still available, so wish me luck!

Also, as much as I'd like a 5 speed cruiser, I don't think nice ones are really in my price range at this point. Basically trying to get into a 100 + tires and a roof rack (to hold my RTT) for the same price I can get for my 80.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Owned 5 100/LX (99-06) Any 100 will pull any hill you can find and no way can it be compared in power to an 80. For traveling and power to pull and pass a VVTI will smoke a non VVTI. If boils down to the newest Land Cruiser or LX is superior in power and comfort to the earlier models. All we use our 06 LX470 for is travel and towing. Also given the use Im a huge fan of AHC.

 

[SierraWheeler]

Is that Corral Hollow in your photo?

I don't have any basis for comparison to an 80 series, but I decided against an 80 and went with the 100 for the reasons you mentioned. I have a 2001 LC with the 4spd and 33s (285/75/16) and I live in the Bay Area so I probably run a lot of the same roads you do. No issues or worries with the cooling system when going into the mountains. The gears are definitely a little taller with the 33's compared to stock, but the issue is definitely gearing and not horsepower. Put it in the right gear like @Ohthetrees mentioned and you won't be lacking for speed going uphill. I will be re-gearing but only because I have plans for 35s.

 

[Bripars40]

100 Series demolishes the 80 when it comes to true daily driving ability. I’ve driving both with stock gears and 35s and I hated it in the 80. It’s not a big deal in the 100.

 

[uzj100]

2004 with dt headers and 3 inch ems exhaust is the quickest of all 100s I have ever been in.

I would add dt headers and 3 inch exhaust to a 4 speed truck and you will be good to go. Headers and exhaust add 15+ hp and 20+ ft lbs of torque. There are charts on mud from the dyno test.

I have owned 3 99s, and 1 2000 with headers. Currently have a modified 2004 and a stock 1999.

I have owned a 91, 92, 95, and 96 in the 80 series.

They are all great vehicles however the 100 fits better in my world of 90 percent on pavement and 10 percent off. And mostly used to get to activities like fishing, kayaking, camping and mountain biking.

 

[TXLX100]

I have a 98 LX, it will act like it doesn't want to go when it's low in the power band, but if you run it in higher RPM's it will pull no problem. The only thing I wish for is traction control or a locker, so I'd recommend one of those options.

 

[skhochay]

People probably sick of me saying this : but I have TLC 80,100,200 I drive all and I can tell ya what bee the 99% prefect car is
100 (all) + 80(front drive) + (200)5.7 engine , but overall 100 is way better that 80

 

[riffman12]

ok well looks like I'm going to check it out a little sooner...like tonight. Curious what you guys think about the price of this thing. Here's the quick notes:

- 2000 LX470, Green with tan leather. One owner, bought brand new. California its whole life.
- 209k miles - highest I've ever bought a vehicle with
- Always garaged, paint looks immaculate. Interior looks very clean from the photos. No rips or anything.
- meticulous service from the same dealer since new. 2.5" binder of service records. Went in almost ever 5k miles to the dealer.
- Recent service for $8k including Timing Belt, water pump, tires, brakes all around, a bunch of other stuff.
- Also had a fresh starter motor and alternator around 160k miles
- recent radiator, coolant hoses etc.

He's asking $9800 but sounds like he's flexible. My max is $9000

What do you guys think?

 

[uzj100]

Well worth the price he is asking.

The maintenance records make the difference. Buy it before someone else does.

Good for 500k.

 

[Kabanstva]

I'd easily pay his asking price for something like that. Obviously if everything checks out and it's as good in person as it is in pictures.

1-owner, with records, and no rust alone is worth alot.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

ok well looks like I'm going to check it out a little sooner...like tonight. Curious what you guys think about the price of this thing. Here's the quick notes:

- 2000 LX470, Green with tan leather. One owner, bought brand new. California its whole life.
- 209k miles - highest I've ever bought a vehicle with
- Always garaged, paint looks immaculate. Interior looks very clean from the photos. No rips or anything.
- meticulous service from the same dealer since new. 2.5" binder of service records. Went in almost ever 5k miles to the dealer.
- Recent service for $8k including Timing Belt, water pump, tires, brakes all around, a bunch of other stuff.
- Also had a fresh starter motor and alternator around 160k miles
- recent radiator, coolant hoses etc.

He's asking $9800 but sounds like he's flexible. My max is $9000

What do you guys think?

Two costly items to check -
when and has the steering rack been replaced
when and has the drive axles been replaced (not to be confused with rebooting)

Sounds like you seller believes its perfect something I personally like when buying. Negotiate the price and even if the owner does not budge on price accept under the condition its taken to the dealership for inspection verifying the condition. If it is perfect with zero repairs needed the asking price is not bad if you need not spend any money. If the dealer finds (which I find they always do) repairs then you deduct the needed repair from the perfect condition price. Works every time and you end up with a perfect vehicle. Inspection is a very smart value saving thing to do if you are not an expert. Either one of the noted items to check are in excess of $1000 hope that make sense.

 

[riffman12]

Two costly items to check -
when and has the steering rack been replaced
when and has the drive axles been replaced (not to be confused with rebooting)

Sounds like you seller believes its perfect something I personally like when buying. Negotiate the price and even if the owner does not budge on price accept under the condition its taken to the dealership for inspection verifying the condition. If it is perfect with zero repairs needed the asking price is not bad if you need not spend any money. If the dealer finds (which I find they always do) repairs then you deduct the needed repair from the perfect condition price. Works every time and you end up with a perfect vehicle. Inspection is a very smart value saving thing to do if you are not an expert. Either one of the noted items to check are in excess of $1000 hope that make sense.

Just checked the history online, Steering rack was replaced at 168k

I don't see any mention of actual CV axles being replaced, but right boot was done at 152k, left boot at 99k. Left axle seal was also replaced at the same time .

 

[Kabanstva]

Two costly items to check -
when and has the steering rack been replaced
when and has the drive axles been replaced (not to be confused with rebooting)

Sounds like you seller believes its perfect something I personally like when buying. Negotiate the price and even if the owner does not budge on price accept under the condition its taken to the dealership for inspection verifying the condition. If it is perfect with zero repairs needed the asking price is not bad if you need not spend any money. If the dealer finds (which I find they always do) repairs then you deduct the needed repair from the perfect condition price. Works every time and you end up with a perfect vehicle. Inspection is a very smart value saving thing to do if you are not an expert. Either one of the noted items to check are in excess of $1000 hope that make sense.

Every time I tried that, it's never worked for me. The sellers usually will just say "all used cars need a little work". Never had anyone deduct full amount of repair bill off their asking price. If that's really how the world worked, 70% of used older luxury cars should just be given away for free, especially the German ones that need 3X more work done than they are worth after several years.

I did get the seller to knock down $300 on top of the $1,200 that I negotiated over the phone after inspecting my LS430 in person with my brother who just happens to be a Lexus service manager. We just started naming everything that needs replaced (door lock actuators, one burnt LED tail light, one bad parking sensor, leaking valve cover gaskets, needed new pads and rotors all around, new steering tilt motor, etc...). Let's just say if I didn't have the "hookup" with my brother's work, I'd be paying out the ass to make all those repairs and we made that clear to the seller, but even with that in mind, due to the market value of these cars, he was not willing to go lower than the last $300 discount and we felt it was fair either way. You'll probably never buy a used car that needs zero work unless you are extremely lucky and the seller loved that car like it was his precious baby....which is very rare these days.