I brought this over form a PM, so I could post picture and hope it may benefit others with similar question. The first link in my signature Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 series. answers all these and much more, but it is a lot of reading to just jump if one has not been following me.
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Hello,
I would like to say I love the work you do on your vehicles. You're the mechanic everyone wishes they had. I relate to you in your pursuance of doing everything right. I would like to think I do similar to you, but I could probably never achieve the same degree of quality as yourself. Because of your experience, I have a few(a lot of) questions for you about maintenance for my LC. It would mean a lot if you could share some knowledge with me. Thanks in advanced!
1. On several threads you mention changing the gaskets on the intake manifold for vvti models. How involved is this process? Would you say it's necessary? I have no problem spending time/money on care for this vehicle.
A. One sign is oil coming up (capillary action) from head on intake plastic, then it's time to change IMHO. Heat expansion after warm-up may seal the intake gasket, make it a none issue, but IDK this for sure. It takes a hours, but it's not too difficult. The biggest issue is to clean all the dust, gravel & debris form area so it doesn't fall into head intake ports or cylinders as you pull off IM. HP air is a goodway to blow away. HP water may clean area better, but water gets into intake ports passed the gasket. So one must use water sparingly and run engine as soon done washing, to dry out ports & area. I'd not count on most shops to take time to clean as good as they should.
2. For things such as the PCV valve and thermostat, should I wait till there is an issue then replace or do it for preventive maintenance?
A. The FSM has very specific test to detrim. Or just do with timing belt job as a PM. The rubber hoses hard, crack and loose is easy to inspect for.
3. Since it appears previously completely serviced at the dealer, can I assume things like the wheel bearings were done properly and I shouldn't need to mess with them until the next maintenance interval?
A. Never assume! I use history of work done as my first place to inspect. I find work done imporely 8 out of 10 times, even Dealer maintained. Base-line is never a bad idea!
4. Is it ever necessary to drain and refill the transmission?
A. According to Toyota only if severe condition use. Like towing, deep water, heavey hot stop and go. But I'm in the camp of no fluid is a lifetime.
5. Would you consider necessary for baselining to drain and refill diffs + t-Case?
A. Yes. If history indicates all have been flushed, I'd do the T-case and inspect condition of fluid to confirm. It goes dark ~20K miles and needs changed the most often. If it looks good and clues of lube around fill & drain plugs of diff's indicate they've been serviced, then you may just want to schedule differentials (waste not). I flush T-case and front diff at 25K. T-case turns dark around 20K and front diff ~30K with city driving. Rear differential I'll do at 35K, but could go 40K easy.
6. It has several paint chips here and there. When applying touch-up paint, should I use any kind of primer for bare metal? Is clear coat on top of the touch-up paint necessary?
A. Always use self etching primer on bare metal, top coat will adhere better. Clear coat is not necessary but can't hurt, protecting metal is why we do appearance is secondary.
POR-15 has a metal perp that can be used on bare metal to remove very light surface rust. But if rust is more than just stain or has move under good pain, I'll then mirro grind it out (PITA job). Getting to chips as they occur makes life easy.
7. For compounding( it has lots of scratches, swirl marks, etc), what would you recommend? I see images of Meguiars products in your threads. Does that stuff work pretty well?
A. Correcting clean paint with a clay bar then DA buffer with a good compound is time consuming, but very rewarding. Keeping clean and wax portects.
8. The interior is pretty clean, but I would love to take any measure to insure protection of the trim and seats. Do you have any recommendations for leather conditioning? Lexol? Same question for plastic trim.
A. Keep cleaned and condition protects. Lexol is easy and cost effective. Leatherique is pricy and may life some dye off leather, but does a very good job.
9. For carpet cleaning, you mention dry shampoo at a car wash. Is this like a self-service car wash? perhaps I could find something similar nearby. Is this dry shampoo like perchloroethylene(dry cleaning solvent)?
A. Toyota recommends only dry carpet cleaner. Carpet store have a powered cleaner. A few car washes have a dry shampoo, the stuff is nasty but kick ass.
10. PO had windshield replaced, the people that did it did a s***ty job and the trim pieces along the side of the windshield are not secured properly and allow wind to buffet them causing a very annoying wind noise at low-low speeds. According to the FSM, there is rivets that hold these trim pieces. which are missing on mine. Do you have any experience with these rivets and trim pieces?
A. Lots of experience! You can read through links within my signature. Look at The king, Redbron, Snowy. I find windshield molding improperly installed 9 of of 10 times. Any open holes must be plugging. I only use plastic coated aluminum rivets and in factory holes. I now do all molding myself and watch every step as installer replace glass. I just got tired of them creating more work for me.
Thank you very much for reading! A lot of questions I know! Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Your welcome!
Ask any question you have. Sorry if my threads didn't give you these answer clearly they are meant too.
P.S.
I might just stop by in Denver sometime!
Look me up for sure. But be warned, I'll talk your ear off about our rigs!
VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV
Hello,
I would like to say I love the work you do on your vehicles. You're the mechanic everyone wishes they had. I relate to you in your pursuance of doing everything right. I would like to think I do similar to you, but I could probably never achieve the same degree of quality as yourself. Because of your experience, I have a few(a lot of) questions for you about maintenance for my LC. It would mean a lot if you could share some knowledge with me. Thanks in advanced!
1. On several threads you mention changing the gaskets on the intake manifold for vvti models. How involved is this process? Would you say it's necessary? I have no problem spending time/money on care for this vehicle.
A. One sign is oil coming up (capillary action) from head on intake plastic, then it's time to change IMHO. Heat expansion after warm-up may seal the intake gasket, make it a none issue, but IDK this for sure. It takes a hours, but it's not too difficult. The biggest issue is to clean all the dust, gravel & debris form area so it doesn't fall into head intake ports or cylinders as you pull off IM. HP air is a goodway to blow away. HP water may clean area better, but water gets into intake ports passed the gasket. So one must use water sparingly and run engine as soon done washing, to dry out ports & area. I'd not count on most shops to take time to clean as good as they should.
2. For things such as the PCV valve and thermostat, should I wait till there is an issue then replace or do it for preventive maintenance?
A. The FSM has very specific test to detrim. Or just do with timing belt job as a PM. The rubber hoses hard, crack and loose is easy to inspect for.
3. Since it appears previously completely serviced at the dealer, can I assume things like the wheel bearings were done properly and I shouldn't need to mess with them until the next maintenance interval?
A. Never assume! I use history of work done as my first place to inspect. I find work done imporely 8 out of 10 times, even Dealer maintained. Base-line is never a bad idea!
4. Is it ever necessary to drain and refill the transmission?
A. According to Toyota only if severe condition use. Like towing, deep water, heavey hot stop and go. But I'm in the camp of no fluid is a lifetime.
5. Would you consider necessary for baselining to drain and refill diffs + t-Case?
A. Yes. If history indicates all have been flushed, I'd do the T-case and inspect condition of fluid to confirm. It goes dark ~20K miles and needs changed the most often. If it looks good and clues of lube around fill & drain plugs of diff's indicate they've been serviced, then you may just want to schedule differentials (waste not). I flush T-case and front diff at 25K. T-case turns dark around 20K and front diff ~30K with city driving. Rear differential I'll do at 35K, but could go 40K easy.
6. It has several paint chips here and there. When applying touch-up paint, should I use any kind of primer for bare metal? Is clear coat on top of the touch-up paint necessary?
A. Always use self etching primer on bare metal, top coat will adhere better. Clear coat is not necessary but can't hurt, protecting metal is why we do appearance is secondary.
POR-15 has a metal perp that can be used on bare metal to remove very light surface rust. But if rust is more than just stain or has move under good pain, I'll then mirro grind it out (PITA job). Getting to chips as they occur makes life easy.
7. For compounding( it has lots of scratches, swirl marks, etc), what would you recommend? I see images of Meguiars products in your threads. Does that stuff work pretty well?
A. Correcting clean paint with a clay bar then DA buffer with a good compound is time consuming, but very rewarding. Keeping clean and wax portects.
8. The interior is pretty clean, but I would love to take any measure to insure protection of the trim and seats. Do you have any recommendations for leather conditioning? Lexol? Same question for plastic trim.
A. Keep cleaned and condition protects. Lexol is easy and cost effective. Leatherique is pricy and may life some dye off leather, but does a very good job.
9. For carpet cleaning, you mention dry shampoo at a car wash. Is this like a self-service car wash? perhaps I could find something similar nearby. Is this dry shampoo like perchloroethylene(dry cleaning solvent)?
A. Toyota recommends only dry carpet cleaner. Carpet store have a powered cleaner. A few car washes have a dry shampoo, the stuff is nasty but kick ass.
10. PO had windshield replaced, the people that did it did a s***ty job and the trim pieces along the side of the windshield are not secured properly and allow wind to buffet them causing a very annoying wind noise at low-low speeds. According to the FSM, there is rivets that hold these trim pieces. which are missing on mine. Do you have any experience with these rivets and trim pieces?
A. Lots of experience! You can read through links within my signature. Look at The king, Redbron, Snowy. I find windshield molding improperly installed 9 of of 10 times. Any open holes must be plugging. I only use plastic coated aluminum rivets and in factory holes. I now do all molding myself and watch every step as installer replace glass. I just got tired of them creating more work for me.
Thank you very much for reading! A lot of questions I know! Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Your welcome!
Ask any question you have. Sorry if my threads didn't give you these answer clearly they are meant too.
P.S.
I might just stop by in Denver sometime!
Look me up for sure. But be warned, I'll talk your ear off about our rigs!
