Question(s): Jacking the vehicle up for spring install

[roncruiser]

Finally! Finally getting around to installing the springs this Saturday. I have almost everything I need thanks to the forum.

For the front springs, I was wondering about how to properly get the vehicle on the jack stands?

1)Do you lift (with floor jack) under the pumpkin of the axle and then install the stands on the frame at the same time?

2)Do you jack up one side of the axle put the jack stand on that side. Then jack up the other side of the axle and put the other jack stand in on the other side?

I just want to make sure I take full advantage of the max. jack stand height. Which is the correct way? What is the correct way?

 

[SOCALFJ]

1 or 2 works. Either or. Just jack the rig up as high as you can and get both jack stands as far out as they safely can. Slide them under the front most portion of the frame - have someone double check they're set properly as you lower the floor jack. Then remove the wheels and compress the spring with the compressor (if its a harbor freight spring compressor, proceed to throw it away when your done ). Disconnect the sway bar and the shocks and droop the heck out of the axle.. the stock springs can fall out practically if you get it right. The new OME springs might take a little wiggle or so to get them in. Sometimes releasing the upper cup with the two nuts can help too.

 

[roncruiser]

After having slept on it I remember that whenever I jacked it up under the pumpkin, one of the tires was always on the ground. Maybe, I'm not jacking it up as high as possible using the floor jack.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

No need for a spring compressor.


Jack up each side of the axle, and place your jack stands under the frame just behind the control arm frame mount. Assuming you are using 6 ton stands, as you lower the axle the tires will still touch. Remove the sway bar bolts on the frame end. Loosen the ABS wires on the control arm.

Then jack up the wheel, remove, and let the axle go down to full extension. The brake disc should end up a foot or so off the ground. Do the same on the other side.

Remove the shock-the DS can be hard, but a breaker bar to hold in position and a chain wrench to turn the shock body works well. Support the axle on that side as you remove the shock, because the axle will drop further and you want to control it.

Use your foot to force the axle down just a bit more-you can push on the hub with your foot-the old spring will fall out. Place new spring, jack up that end of the axle and bolt in the shock. Do the same on the other side.

Now just reverse the teardown process and call it good. If you have a press, press in the CC bushings, but if not, find a shop to press them for you.

 

[Grench]

Just a quick note...

Chock the back tires WELL. I've seen people use red bricks for this, and I'm guilty of doing it myself a couple of times. I've come to the realization that they aren't big enough. How? I backed out over a set and hardly noticed.

The Park pawl doesn't do anything with a wheel in the air. The parking brake only uses the back wheels, and isn't overly effective (typically) in these trucks.

Putting a vehicle up on jack stands is inherently dangerous. If you don't like how it is sitting, undo it and reposition things. It's your life or ability to walk or tie shoes that is at risk.

Kind of like treating a gun as if it is always loaded, treat a vehicle off the ground as if it is capable of falling.

Paranoid? A bit. But a bit of paranoia with a 5,000 lb truck in the air is IMHO a good thing. YMMV

 

[hill]

Good points!!!

 

[MTNRAT]

roncruiser, cruiserdrew has the method.
Cheers,
Sean

 

[roncruiser]

Would putting another set of jack stands behind the front bumper at the frame as an additional safety precaution help?

 

[Fly Rod]

Would putting another set of jack stands behind the front bumper at the frame as an additional safety precaution help?

Done properly two six ton stands are fine. You will have your jack under the middle of the axel as an extra precaution. Just pay attention that your stands are not torqued and that they are flat on the ground.

 

[roncruiser]

Done properly two six ton stands are fine. You will have your jack under the middle of the axel as an extra precaution. Just pay attention that your stands are not torqued and that they are flat on the ground.

Thanks. Got a lot of good advice from reading your recent install thread.

Not sure what you mean by making sure the stands aren't torqued

What are the nut sizes for the front shocks (top and bottom)? Rear shocks too? Need to make a lunch run to Sears to ensure I have everything.

I'd like to have the install done before the fight tomorrow night

 

[Jomama]

No need for a spring compressor.


Jack up each side of the axle, and place your jack stands under the frame just behind the control arm frame mount. Assuming you are using 6 ton stands, as you lower the axle the tires will still touch. Remove the sway bar bolts on the frame end. Loosen the ABS wires on the control arm.

Then jack up the wheel, remove, and let the axle go down to full extension. The brake disc should end up a foot or so off the ground. Do the same on the other side.

Remove the shock-the DS can be hard, but a breaker bar to hold in position and a chain wrench to turn the shock body works well. Support the axle on that side as you remove the shock, because the axle will drop further and you want to control it.

Use your foot to force the axle down just a bit more-you can push on the hub with your foot-the old spring will fall out. Place new spring, jack up that end of the axle and bolt in the shock. Do the same on the other side.

Now just reverse the teardown process and call it good. If you have a press, press in the CC bushings, but if not, find a shop to press them for you.

I did my install totally solo too, just like this, but had to use the other trick that is commonly mentioned, I could not "push down" on the axle enough to get the J-springs in by myself... Access/Positioning was too hard... I used the OEM Jack from the truck (others use smaller bottle jacks)... Between axle an frame to help push and hold the axle low enough to get the springs seated.... Struggled with the first spring for a hour or two before trying this, the rest of the install was cake after doing this...

 

[Rookie2]

No need for a spring compressor.

Although this job can be done without it, is there a reason you wouldn't use one, given you can use them for free from Autozones loan a tool? Is it somehow more hassle than it's worth? Seems like it would be particularly helpful when trying to put the new bigger springs in.

:Beer:
Rookie2

 

[Jomama]

I checked out one of those autozone rental spring compressors and they were junk, and did not look designed for something as beefy as ome springs... If it were to come apart under compression I imagine it could really hurt you...

And then there really was no need... the bottle jack/oem jack to push down on the axle a inch or two was all that was needed...

 

[jimboni]

+1 on no compressors

I've used both methods, The spring compressors don't add much value and certainly add their own level of risk (esp if you use the cheepo loaners). Just simply not necessary to do anything other than droop the axle. They almost fall out on their own.

By the way, make sure your jack is good nick. My well-loved floor jack bought the farm about halfway up when I did my springs last weekend. Should have checked it out first.

6-ton jack stands??? Dang - seems like overkill. My 3 ton stands seemed to do just fine, esp since it's only lifting one end at a time. Am I wrong?

 

[roncruiser]

Some throw the tires underneath the truck as a safety precaution. Where exactly do you put them? Directly underneath the front bumper brackets where the bumper attaches to the frame?

 

[Rookie2]

I've used both methods, The spring compressors don't add much value and certainly add their own level of risk (esp if you use the cheepo loaners). Just simply not necessary to do anything other than droop the axle. They almost fall out on their own.

Okay, I hear ya. Thanks fellas.

6-ton jack stands??? Dang - seems like overkill. My 3 ton stands seemed to do just fine, esp since it's only lifting one end at a time. Am I wrong?

I don't know that it's necessarily a load issue, but more of a geometry thing. The 6 tons are much bigger with a wider base, and IMO are just better suited when trying to get rigs like these up real high. You may not have read the guys thread a couple of weeks ago, where his rig rolled off the 3 ton jacks. He said his vehicle was on a very slight incline. They just don't give you much room for error. When you're talking $10 difference in price, IMO it's a no-brainer.


Rookie2

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Although this job can be done without it, is there a reason you wouldn't use one, given you can use them for free from Autozones loan a tool? Is it somehow more hassle than it's worth? Seems like it would be particularly helpful when trying to put the new bigger springs in.

:Beer:
Rookie2

The reason not to use a spring compressor is that it is completely unnecessary and would only slow you down. It adds no value or safety to the job. Using the method in my post you can get 6 inch springs in uncompressed. Then when you lower the truck, they compress themselves. It's easier, safer and faster.

 

[FirstToy]

Ron,
post #4 is the way. you can put the tire underneath just behind the wheelwell. at the front bumper, the truck has a long way to go before it hits the tire.

also, spring compresors are a necessary evil on coilovers for IFS vehicles. They are scary and contain A LOT of energy. if they break loose, it can launch thru a wall... or your head if it's in the way! always point the ends of the coil away from living meat, lest it becomes dead meat!

anyway, it's so easy to pop coils out of a 80 w/o all that.

 

[Fly Rod]

6-ton jack stands??? Dang - seems like overkill. My 3 ton stands seemed to do just fine, esp since it's only lifting one end at a time. Am I wrong?

With 3 ton stands set at thier highest my 285/75/16's with the stock suspension were still on the ground. The 6 ton jacks are taller and have a wider base.

By torqued I mean a side load on the stands. When you lower the truck if both stands don't contact equally there will be side pressure on one stand. That pressure will try to equalize to both stands under a full load. The result is an unballanced load. I will go out and check the shock bolts. I just measured them and they are 17mm. I would get a racheting box end for the DS nut.

 

[roncruiser]

With 3 ton stands set at thier highest my 285/75/16's with the stock suspension were still on the ground. The 6 ton jacks are taller and have a wider base.

By torqued I mean a side load on the stands. When you lower the truck if both stands don't contact equally there will be side pressure on one stand. That pressure will try to equalize to both stands under a full load. The result is an unballanced load. I will go out and check the shock bolts. I just measured them and they are 17mm. I would get a racheting box end for the DS nut.

I forgot to mention I already have Bilsteins on the rig. Its just a matter of changing the springs now.

Unless someone points out a significant safety difference between the two, I'll be jacking up one side of axle placing the jack stand. Then jacking up the other side of the axle and placing the other jack stand.