Question on tightening of motor mounts (1 Viewer)

[sproggy]

I've had a shake upon putting the truck in to 1st or reverse gear and starting off since as long as I can remember (30+ years). Sometimes the shake is more violent and sometimes less and sometimes not there at all but it always comes back. I also sometimes get a clunking noise at times from somewhere....some shifting part but it does not seem to me the driveshaft or diff since it happens when I am going in reverse and brake the truck to then shift into 1st. Motor or tranny shifting about perhaps? I've written a bit about this in the past if it sounds familiar to anyone. My front end has also taken some hits on it and I have a slightly bent frame and had some pretty twisted up rear motor mounts. I have replaced those with new rubber donuts and bolts (though the frame is still twisted slightly right where the mounts are). I thought this condition might be from clutch judder but after adjusting those 3 fingers on the pressure plate nothing had changed. A couple weeks ago I thought to try torquing down some more on those rear motor mounts. I had them torqued to what appeared to me the proper degree...that is, to where the cotter pin could fit through the hole in the bolt and secure the castle nut. Well, I have since torqued them down a lot more, squeezing the rubber donuts quite a bit, and rendering the cotter pin useless as the castle nut is quite a bit higher up on the bolt. So in theory the tranny and motor are much more tightly bolted down. Now when I start out, though my shaking and shuddering has not completely disappeared, it is greatly improved and sometimes non-existant. Perhaps since my frame has suffered some damage asking this question is a moot point but what should I make of the above info? I can't quite figure the proper tightening of these rear motor mounts and how the "proper" torquing, where the castle nut would be secured by the cotter pin, could firmly secure the motor/tranny. In my case, it seems to have allowed too much movement. How do other people tighten these?
I have included some pics of how twisted the bolts in the mounts HAD been and then two pics with new rubber donuts and pins. I'll have to take some pics of how they are now. I guess one of the other questions buried in this is what might be my next steps to completely get rid of this shaking?

Thanks all, once again. Humbly, Sproggy.

 

[middlecalf]

I would guess historic clunking from bad spring bushings. And I would want to go with shorter bolts for the engine mounts so the castle nut and cotter pin functioned as designed.

 

[sproggy]

I would guess historic clunking from bad spring bushings. And I would want to go with shorter bolts for the engine mounts so the castle nut and cotter pin functioned as designed.

On the driver's side I had to improvise with the nut and bolt...I can't remember why I think it was because of the bent frame there the standard bolt was not long enough. So no castle nut there but a nylon lock washer. As for the passenger side I am using the stock bolt so how I don't understand why I would have to have a shorter bolt. Unless of course there exists such an OEM part and somehow I have the too long version of the bolt. I would imagine, come to think of it, there is a specified torque range for these mounts?

 

[B y r o n]

That shacking you've been feeling all these years is more likely the clutch.

 

[sproggy]

That shacking you've been feeling all these years is more likely the clutch.

that could be...however the 3 fingers on the pressure plate are fairly uniform, the best I could do from underneath without pulling the tranny. Also, the shaking has much improved since I tightened up the mounts. Oh, and I do have new spring bushings all around. Could it be grease/oil on the clutch disc? It doesn't slip....

 

[shelfboy1]

i ran over my ex wifes boyfriends motor cycle years ago with my 66 fj40 made quite a mess of it but never had clutch chatter had another one from a wreck that split the bellhousing in2 and welded it up and no clutch chatter so im thinking its not from the slightly bent frame .oil or grease will cause your problem.a fly wheel that has been overheated do to slipping the clutch caused the same symtoms for me before .is the transmission tightly sealed to the bellhousing and all bolts tight ?.

 

[sproggy]

i ran over my ex wifes boyfriends motor cycle years ago with my 66 fj40 made quite a mess of it but never had clutch chatter had another one from a wreck that split the bellhousing in2 and welded it up and no clutch chatter so im thinking its not from the slightly bent frame .oil or grease will cause your problem.a fly wheel that has been overheated do to slipping the clutch caused the same symtoms for me before .is the transmission tightly sealed to the bellhousing and all bolts tight ?.

Running over the motorcycle was deliberate? I'll check the tranny bolts. I replaced the clutch when I was 17, 30+ years ago and just slightly dumber than now so it's very possible I messed something up. What about the tightening of the engine mounts helping? Thanks.