Question on Rear FF Axle Hub Install

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I am FINALLY at the point where I can re-install the FF rear axle hubs, diff assy, and axle shafts and get this puppy out of the garage.

However, one of the axle nuts doesn't look quite right, so I'm wondering if I need to stop what I'm doing and replace the nut.

The nut in question...

I slide the hub onto the axle spindle, place a lock washer on, then a thin nut with holes in it where I screw a screw into the thin nut into the lock washer.

Next comes the nut in question. It has a seal inside the lip, and behind or inside the seal is a spring. The spring looks to be pinched. I can see it slightly pretruding from behind the seal.

I'm looking for input from the group on what to do. I quickly looked on SOR.com to see if something is available but the diagram doesn't seem clear enough and the description of the part says just a seal.

Mike
 
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that is your axle seal it needs to be replaced if the spring is gone .I think it might be the same as the front one inside the housing but not quite sure .
 
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Junk - Specter was kind enough to send me one.

Too Tall - I looked at the Haynes that I have concerning the front axle seal, and it looks thinner - at least in the picture.

I have an email in to Dan to see what the computers show.

I was hoping to have everything done this long weekend, but after I learned that the rear brake shoes are hard to replace, I sent them off to be re-shoed. That won't be done until later next week.

The list is getting shorter though:

Reinstall rear diff assembly
Reinstall axles
Install new shoes and brake components
Adjust brakes
Fill Diff
Install new 16" wheels
See if she starts right up after an 8-month hibernation.

Mike
 
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Junk - I just had some 16 X 8 white spokes custom ordered through Rocky Road Outfitters, with 3.5" b.s. You can order the wheels through them and then I had them powder coated locally. Nothing fancy. I just thought in the long run I would be able to transfer the wheels from my 80 or 100 series to the 45 as I upgrade or downgrade the other trucks.

I could have gotten some 16 X 8 black rock crawlers through them as well, but the wife thought the white wagon wheels would go better on the mustard truck.


Mike
 
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Hey Mike, can you post contact info for them, and what you paid per wwheel? I need 5 of those....pm if you're not comfortable posting prices....


Thanks, Alan
 
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http://www.rocky-road.com/index2.html

Their wheels page
http://www.rocky-road.com/wheels.html

I opted for the Series 70, 8" wide with 3.5 b.s., priced at $60 a wheel. Then to get the 16" wheel instead of 15", was $10 more to the price. Their price for powdercoating was really good, but they didn't do white at the time. So the wheels came to me in raw format. I can't remember what the powdercoating at the local shop cost.
 
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Thanks Mike!
The only thing I don't like about these wheels is the fact that the valve stems are in a really horrible place for wheeling. The need to be on the inside, instead of on that angled face...I got a welder and a drill though;)
 
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I wonder since the wheels would be a custom job for U.S. Wheels whether they would tap you another hole further in?
Rear Valance.jpg
 
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Chef said:
I could ask ;) Just had to replace a vlavle stem on the trails last weekend...stupid grabby rocks.
Please let us know what they say - I'll be ordering mine in a few days. Anyone wanna buy some split rims? :D
 
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Junk: eat it;) I ain't responsable for computer glitches here, that's woodrow's bag.

Thought you had your splits sold? Are they 16x8? Might try pinging "Sherpa," he has expressed interest in those in the past.

I'm not in a big hurry to do this, so those interested might feel free to contact vendors before I get around to it.

Managing TLCA has me pretty busy right at the moment...
 
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If I don't give someone crap at least every 20 minutes I get too crabby :D

Yeah, those are the splits - I had decided to keep them but with a new set of bfg 15" at/kos falling into my lap think I'm going to 15" rims.
 
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btw Chef, thanks for the lead (Sherpa), but also more importantly thanks for the continued dedication to the TLCA
 
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If you feel you need to replace the seal it is easy to knock out of the nut and replace. I don't remember from when I replaced mine but I think it was a different seal then the front axle inner seal. Ordered mine from the local Toyota dealer. Now whether you really 'must' replace these seals, well, a little gear oil in the bearings won't hurt anything. The part you don't want to lose or mess up is that set screw because although Toyota has a part number, they couldn't after three tries get me the right part, but fortunately found one from a parts axle. :beer:
 
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Cryptic - don't by chance have a part number for the seal?

Here is the diagram from SOR, they say it is part number 80.
Hub Diagram.jpg
 
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