Question for those who imported JDM 70's series - wait for the perfect unicorn or restore an average

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Foxtrot01

Joined
Jul 20, 2025
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Miami, FL
Hello all,
I am still in search for my JDM HZJ76 or HZJ77(it was suggested in another thread that better go with the HZJ76 if I can find one) to import to the US, but I had some questions for those who have imported JDM 70's series. More than likely you are familiar with the Japanese auction sheets and their ratings (aside from the notes which are very important). Of course the ones rated exterior 4 or 3.5 and interior B and low mileage are rare and usually go for higher prices on auction.

What would you recommend?
  1. Keep looking for the 4-3.5 with B interior and low mileage.
  2. Lower the standards/expectations and look for an exterior 3-3.5 and maybe consider an interior C with low mileage and restore the interior once you get to the US? (of course I understand that the rust factor is probably one of the most important things to look at).
  3. Thoughts on a condition RA? Has anyone bought a condition RA? (Often denotes a minor accident where repairs have already been completed), what has been your experience?
  4. Also, considering this will be a 25+ year/old vehicle, what are the things that you think should be changed/serviced/replaced(fluids, batteries, what else? hoses? belts?) in Japan before shipping to the US?
Thank you for reading this and for your insights.
 
Low mileage on an older diesel is usually more a red flag to me then a pro . These engines are designed to work for hours on end at optimal temperatures . Many of the low mileage jdm cruisers that came to the US went in to self destructing mode after the first cross country trip when all the sludge build up inside the engine starts to let go and block the oil channels . Interior parts are the hardest to find so pick one witha interior that you like , sheetmetal blemishes or even small rust spots can be taken care of by any bodyshop and parts are available , get one with a manual transmission as a 1HZ with slushbox behind it is no fun at all.
 
that is a great insight, I never realized that low mileage was a red flag, what is the sweet spot of mileage? I honestly wanted to get no more than 180,000km (that is what my idea of low mileage is/was). and yes, I agree on the manual transmission, I currently drive a manual and that is what I had when I had my FJ73 and that is what I am currently looking for.
 
I would be less concerned about mileage and more about the overall condition of the vehicle. The engine and drivetrain will last a lot of miles and be very reliable if well maintained. Body work is very expensive, interior parts hard to find so I would prioritize those aspects while looking for something decent mechanically. Luckily the 1HZ is still in production, so engine and drivetrain parts are readily available.
 
joekatana said:
... Many of the low mileage jdm cruisers that came to the US went in to self destructing mode after the first cross country trip when all the sludge build up inside the engine starts to let go and block the oil channels . ...
Click to expand...
Great insight, but could there be a different result for low mileage/sludged engines if this is addressed immediately? If the sludge can work loose in sustained use, could it be removed via deliberate maintenance?
i.e., flush the majority of the sludge out via dedicated maintenance before it can cause problems (remove the red flag through direct maintenance action)

My thought is to change the oil/filter right off with such an engine. Refill with an inexpensive high detergent low weight oil for a couple hundred miles of low speed non-stressful driving. Change the oil/filter looking for signs of sludge (moments of extra thick oil as it drains) and repeat the non-stressing driving cycle for a few hundred more miles. Continue the cycle until the draining oil appears to be almost clean, then move to spec oil weight for the engine and change cycle. From here start a local driving routine that allows incremental buildup where the engine progressively goes to higher load levels with increasing durations.

After a few more oil change cycles, would it be reasonable to project that dangerous levels of sludge have been removed where sludge damage is no longer a concern?

As you may recall, I installed a 15B-FT in my BJ70. It was projected to be a low mileage engine when I bought it. When I have the oil pan and valve cover off, it appeared to be exactly that. Once I got the truck running with the 15B-FT, I changed the oil at ~500 miles for the first change and ~2000 for the second. I watched the oil drain out with both changes and was impressed with how clean it appeared. Yes my perspective might be tainted from years of black oil draining out of my indirect injection 3B, while the 15B is direct injection. But it gave me confidence in the 15B-FT and I have made numerous trips since with more coming this year.
 
Foxtrot01 said:
that is a great insight, I never realized that low mileage was a red flag, what is the sweet spot of mileage? I honestly wanted to get no more than 180,000km (that is what my idea of low mileage is/was). and yes, I agree on the manual transmission, I currently drive a manual and that is what I had when I had my FJ73 and that is what I am currently looking for.
Click to expand...
180k is very reasonable but some come with very low mileage like less then 100 k km and then you want to open the engjne and inspect for sludge buildup
 
If you have your eye set on a particular vehicle and it's offered prior to auction, I'd suggest getting a quick inspection done. It usually doesn't cost too much and may give you some more insight into the truck. Obviously it's nowhere near as comprehensive as a proper one in a shop but more information is always good.

Like others have said, the 1HZ is still in production so brand new parts are no issue. It is a slow diesel, but turbo/intercooler upgrades are straightforward, and as long as you set your fuel properly and keep an eye on EGTs, you'll be fine. If you're really committed you can convert it to a proper 1HZ-T with upgraded pistons, connecting rods, and I believe head, I'm sure that I am missing more.

The 76 will usually be more expensive than a 77, but coils are more comfortable and the 76 shares a lot with the 80 series in that regard. I forget is the 76 is offered in a LX trim, but I went with a ZX trim on mine and the extra creature comforts are nice.

Good luck on your search.
 
Imported one of them sludge-filled, low-mileage, no-fun, slushbox units a couple years ago. Turned out to be great fun and not sludgy. YMMV.

Had boots on the ground scouting for me though. Swapped the batteries in Japan. Getting to a US port with dead batteries may lead to your new baby getting yanked and pushed around like a nerd in an 80's movie. Also had them swap back to original steel rims there from the aftermarket rims on it at purchase. Much cheaper to install there then buy those here or have them shipped separate. Like others have said, 1HZ parts aren't hard to come by. Plenty in the US Toyota parts system and from vendors here. So, the other work depends on your mechanical advantage here vs there.

Good luck. Enjoy the process.
 
I own an HZJ77 with a 1HZ. I would recommend getting one that is in as good condition as you can afford, keeping in mind that Japanese car sellers can be as scummy as they get when it comes to things like vehicle condition ratings. I say this because people tend to romanticize Japanese when it comes to things like this, and having lived in Japan and seen it first hand I am here to tell you they just want to sell you a car and can lie and cover things up just like used car salesmen here. Be careful who your broker is and try to get a reputable seller. Some importers in Japan give you no recourse if the vehicle arrives and is a heap of junk. The reason I recommend one in good condition is that you don't want to get it and find that you're overwhelmed with issues that garages and diesel mechanics here won't help you with. It's easier to piecemeal issues as they arise than it is to find yourself with a basket case that will spend months or years in your backyard.

I don't know how familiar you are with working on diesels, but would call around now and ask local mechanics or ideally Land Cruiser shops if they would be willing to work on it before you buy one.
 
mjw4 said:
If you have your eye set on a particular vehicle and it's offered prior to auction, I'd suggest getting a quick inspection done. It usually doesn't cost too much and may give you some more insight into the truck. Obviously it's nowhere near as comprehensive as a proper one in a shop but more information is always good.

Like others have said, the 1HZ is still in production so brand new parts are no issue. It is a slow diesel, but turbo/intercooler upgrades are straightforward, and as long as you set your fuel properly and keep an eye on EGTs, you'll be fine. If you're really committed you can convert it to a proper 1HZ-T with upgraded pistons, connecting rods, and I believe head, I'm sure that I am missing more.

The 76 will usually be more expensive than a 77, but coils are more comfortable and the 76 shares a lot with the 80 series in that regard. I forget is the 76 is offered in a LX trim, but I went with a ZX trim on mine and the extra creature comforts are nice.

Good luck on your search.
Click to expand...

EngineBlockEggs said:
I own an HZJ77 with a 1HZ. I would recommend getting one that is in as good condition as you can afford, keeping in mind that Japanese car sellers can be as scummy as they get when it comes to things like vehicle condition ratings. I say this because people tend to romanticize Japanese when it comes to things like this, and having lived in Japan and seen it first hand I am here to tell you they just want to sell you a car and can lie and cover things up just like used car salesmen here. Be careful who your broker is and try to get a reputable seller. Some importers in Japan give you no recourse if the vehicle arrives and is a heap of junk. The reason I recommend one in good condition is that you don't want to get it and find that you're overwhelmed with issues that garages and diesel mechanics here won't help you with. It's easier to piecemeal issues as they arise than it is to find yourself with a basket case that will spend months or years in your backyard.

I don't know how familiar you are with working on diesels, but would call around now and ask local mechanics or ideally Land Cruiser shops if they would be willing to work on it before you buy one.
Click to expand...
Hello, thank you for the insight, good information to know, I am working with JapanCarDirect(I think several in the forum have used them and they seem pretty good) they seemed to be knowledgeable and have put me in contact with a broker as well so I have a good idea of the costs. I have been window shopping looking at the auctions almost every day and inquiring when I see something interesting, I also use google lens to translate most of the auction sheets and getting as much information as possible. I saw a video on a 2004 70's series from an Canadian importer and he showed and explained what some of the codes on the auction sheet, that was very helpful to see what an A1, A2, A3 means on the actual car. I also agree that paying for an inspection makes good sense. I live in South Florida and from what I have seen there are several LC shops in the state.
 
@cruisermatt has a shop in Winter Park and is familiar with diesel 70 series. If/when you get one I would reach out to him about any needs you may have- parts, work, whatever. He's a mud member and very invested in the land cruiser community.

cruisermatts.com

CruiserMatt's Off-Road & Performance

cruisermatts
cruisermatts.com
cruisermatt

Thread 'What's going on at CruiserMatt's Off-Road'

Hey guys, finally got a small space setup for some cruiser work. Thought I'd make this thread to show some of the trucks and jobs that come in and out :)
  • Like

Good luck with your search.
 
Foxtrot01 said:
Hello, thank you for the insight, good information to know, I am working with JapanCarDirect(I think several in the forum have used them and they seem pretty good) they seemed to be knowledgeable and have put me in contact with a broker as well so I have a good idea of the costs. I have been window shopping looking at the auctions almost every day and inquiring when I see something interesting, I also use google lens to translate most of the auction sheets and getting as much information as possible. I saw a video on a 2004 70's series from an Canadian importer and he showed and explained what some of the codes on the auction sheet, that was very helpful to see what an A1, A2, A3 means on the actual car. I also agree that paying for an inspection makes good sense. I live in South Florida and from what I have seen there are several LC shops in the state.
Click to expand...
All vehicles in Japan need to get thoroughly inspected annually or every other year as mandated by the government. The trick you learn living there is to find a local garage and have them do it for you. This is because the garage will know which inspection place to take it to in order to get it to pass. Maybe they went to high school with someone who works there, maybe they slip the inspector some money, who knows? But I have failed an inspection on my car (a rattling Daihatsu Gino), did nothing to it, dropped it off at a garage, and the next day and $150 later I had my passing JCI stickers.

I promise I am not trying to scare you. I am just telling you not to blindly trust the inspection process or auction sheets. You need to ensure you have some kind of financial protection if you order a lemon and you need to build trust with your importer.
 
Foxtrot01 said:
Hello, thank you for the insight, good information to know, I am working with JapanCarDirect(I think several in the forum have used them and they seem pretty good) they seemed to be knowledgeable and have put me in contact with a broker as well so I have a good idea of the costs. I have been window shopping looking at the auctions almost every day and inquiring when I see something interesting, I also use google lens to translate most of the auction sheets and getting as much information as possible. I saw a video on a 2004 70's series from an Canadian importer and he showed and explained what some of the codes on the auction sheet, that was very helpful to see what an A1, A2, A3 means on the actual car. I also agree that paying for an inspection makes good sense. I live in South Florida and from what I have seen there are several LC shops in the state.
Click to expand...
I used JapanCarDirect as well, you'll be fine they are very helpful in guiding you along the way, and their inspection does not cost much as well.

I was glued to the auctions as well when I was searching for my 76, definitely a bit of a rush when a new one shows up and you get to read about it, see if its the one.

Lots of places for aftermarket parts all over the place, and for genuine Toyota Amayama, Partsouq, Megazip, Yoshiparts, and Cruiser Oufitters will have you set.

Again, good luck with your search.
 
mjw4 said:
I used JapanCarDirect as well, you'll be fine they are very helpful in guiding you along the way, and their inspection does not cost much as well.

I was glued to the auctions as well when I was searching for my 76, definitely a bit of a rush when a new one shows up and you get to read about it, see if its the one.

Lots of places for aftermarket parts all over the place, and for genuine Toyota Amayama, Partsouq, Megazip, Yoshiparts, and Cruiser Oufitters will have you set.

Again, good luck with your search.
Click to expand...
thank you, it is reassuring that you worked with JapanCarDirect and you seem to have a good experience. Where you able to find your 76? If you did, did you make any changes to it while in Japan, meaning changing fluids and/or batteries or other things before getting it shipped?
 
Hello,

I am late to the party.

"Honest" used car sellers and their lemons are everywhere. But that does not mean you cannot find a good example.

Remember that 76/77 Series were regarded as work vehicles back in the day, and some lived hard lives. Not as hard as in South America or the Middle East, but enough to complicate things for a new owner.

The 1HZ and its drivetrain are generally reliable. However, after 25+ years they may need some serious care, regardless of the mileage.

As mentioned above, 100k to 180k kilometers is a reasonable range. Proper baselining is important.

A closer look at the body helps to spot rust and other damage. A repainted truck in a different color is a red flag in my book. Body work is expensive, and it adds up quickly when hidden rust/damage resurface.

As for parts, they are available from Toyota. You have to fill an HS-7 form (I never remember the exact name) for access to parts. There are other vendors, both here in 'Mud and elsewhere.

Have a close look, get a seller/exporter willing to help you with that and watch very closely before you buy. Set money aside for baselining and repairs. Last but not least, do not spend money you cannot afford to lose.





Juan
 
Last edited:
JuanJ said:
Hello,

I am late to the party.

"Honest" used car sellers and their lemons are everywhere. But that does not mean you cannot find a good example.

Remember that 76/77 Series were regarded as work vehicles back in the day, and some lived hard lives. Not as hard as in South America or the Middle East, but enough to complicate things for a new owner.

The 1HZ and its drivetrain are generally reliable. However, after 25+ years they may need some serious care, regardless of the mileage.

As mentioned above, 100k to 180k kilometers is a reasonable range. Proper baselining is important.

A closer look at the body helps to spot rust and other damage. A repainted truck in a different color is a red flag in my book. Body work is expensive, and it adds up quickly when hidden rust/damage resurface.

As for part, they are available from Toyota. You have to fill an HS-7 form (I never remember the exact name) for access to parts. There are other vendors, both here in 'Mud and elsewhere.

Have a close look, get a seller/exporter willing to help you with that and watch very closely before you buy. Set money aside for baselining and repairs. Last but not least, do not spend money you cannot afford to lose.





Juan
Click to expand...
Hello Juan, Regarding the HS-7(?) form, I've never had to submit that to my dealer in order to order parts for my 75. Maybe this is something that has been deprecated or only required from certain dealers in the US? Just wanted to add this to the convo so folks are aware that this requirement seems to be inconsistent.

Cheers, James
 
DrRock said:
Hello Juan, Regarding the HS-7(?) form, I've never had to submit that to my dealer in order to order parts for my 75. Maybe this is something that has been deprecated or only required from certain dealers in the US? Just wanted to add this to the convo so folks are aware that this requirement seems to be inconsistent.

Cheers, James
Click to expand...

It’s required for certain non-US parts that all dealers have to submit to Parts Analysts in Plano to have the part “released” to dealers.
 
Foxtrot01 said:
thank you, it is reassuring that you worked with JapanCarDirect and you seem to have a good experience. Where you able to find your 76? If you did, did you make any changes to it while in Japan, meaning changing fluids and/or batteries or other things before getting it shipped?
Click to expand...
I did buy a 76, and no nothing was done to it while in Japan. Once it arrived in Canada and was delivered I went about doing a full service, and installed a turbo and intercooler while I had the whole thing apart. I've gotten lucky I believe, my 76 came with 320,000 km, but I have yet to find any substantial corrosion, just some surface rust here and there. I'd like to think that the previous owner took care of this thing pretty well, as I have yet to have any issues.
 
DrRock said:
Hello Juan, Regarding the HS-7(?) form, I've never had to submit that to my dealer in order to order parts for my 75. Maybe this is something that has been deprecated or only required from certain dealers in the US? Just wanted to add this to the convo so folks are aware that this requirement seems to be inconsistent.

Cheers, James
Click to expand...
It also must be only in the USA because here in Canada I've heard of no such thing. What sort of form is it, provided proof that the vehicle is legal and properly imported before parts can be supplied for it?
 
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