Question about wheel weights/powdercoating for factory 16” alloys

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Kabanstva

Kabanstva

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I am having my 94 OEM 16s refinished soon by a local powdercoating shop and wanted to make sure I get this right. The wheels have hammer-on wheel weights on the outer faces….is that a necessity (to avoid rotor/caliper clearance issues) or can you get away with just stick-on wheel weights on the back barrels (as with modern cars)?

When I had my OEM 16” LS430 wheels refinished for my Lexus, we had to use hammer-on weights because the stick-on weights were rubbing on the caliper…basically had to scratch newly refinished wheels. Would like to avoid that if possible on the 80 wheels. Can someone chime in?

Also is it ok to coat the steel inserts (where the lug nut holes are) or should those be masked off and kept raw?
 
12bit

12bit

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I have the stick on type on the inside of my OEM 16" wheels on a 94 with no issues so far.
 
gummycarbs

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Walfart put stick-on weights on four out of my five rims. The last one got an external clip-on weight. Why? They probably thought I would be too sexy otherwise. Or maybe they ran out of stick-on weights. I choose to believe the former.

No clearance on the rims with the stick-on weights on the back side.
 
BILT4ME

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I am having my 94 OEM 16s refinished soon by a local powdercoating shop and wanted to make sure I get this right. The wheels have hammer-on wheel weights on the outer faces….is that a necessity (to avoid rotor/caliper clearance issues) or can you get away with just stick-on wheel weights on the back barrels (as with modern cars)?

When I had my OEM 16” LS430 wheels refinished for my Lexus, we had to use hammer-on weights because the stick-on weights were rubbing on the caliper…basically had to scratch newly refinished wheels. Would like to avoid that if possible on the 80 wheels. Can someone chime in?

Also is it ok to coat the steel inserts (where the lug nut holes are) or should those be masked off and kept raw?
Keep the steel inserts raw. If there is powder coat material on them, they will not torque properly and may not maintain torque.

If you choose to do any off-road, you probably don't really want powder coat, as touch-up of damage is difficult with powder coat. Once PC starts to peel or has been scratched, it will continue to grow. Using hammer-on weights may cut/damage the PC that will cause the edges of the rim to start to peel.

Being in IL, you will see salt from the roads and you will see temp extremes with moisture that can get behind the coating and work it with freezing / thawing.
 
Kabanstva

Kabanstva

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Keep the steel inserts raw. If there is powder coat material on them, they will not torque properly and may not maintain torque.

If you choose to do any off-road, you probably don't really want powder coat, as touch-up of damage is difficult with powder coat. Once PC starts to peel or has been scratched, it will continue to grow. Using hammer-on weights may cut/damage the PC that will cause the edges of the rim to start to peel.

Being in IL, you will see salt from the roads and you will see temp extremes with moisture that can get behind the coating and work it with freezing / thawing.
Thanks for the info man. Salt won’t be an issue, I’ll probably just drive this several times in the summer and keep it stored at other times. So hammer-on weights are not necessary with these trucks?
 
BILT4ME

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Thanks for the info man. Salt won’t be an issue, I’ll probably just drive this several times in the summer and keep it stored at other times. So hammer-on weights are not necessary with these trucks?
The stick-on weights can be used, but they MUST be cognizant of the brake caliper location so they still clear.
 

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