Question about steering after New suspension (1 Viewer)

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Apr 15, 2018
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So I installed my OME 850/863 shocks and springs...
But i did not install the castor bushings or the steering dampener that come with the kit yet.
The dampener that got sent to me was the incorrect one. I also have installed slee rear swaybar extended bracket and the front drop blocks. So while driving it to the store, I had driven through a couple big puddles and some bumpy road when I noticed the steering was different, torque steer? The steering wheel was super sensitive to every bump and also when turning, became very stiff when turning more than half a turn. Would not having the castor bushings and the steering stabilizer affect it that much? Im not really sure if I damaged anything. Im pretty basic still as far as understanding how to diagnose. Any advice? I apprereeeciate yall
 

bajaphile

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Technically lifting the truck without caster correction would make your steering easier during low speed turns and also make it feel looser when at higher speed since it removes your positive caster and moves it towards 0° (and if you lifted it enough would go into the negative range). So it is interesting that you are experiencing the opposite effect of it feeling harder to turn and tighter. The steering stabilizer is really not a required component. The caster should be corrected however. The consensus though is the OME bushings aren't the best option as they are polyurethane and prone to cracking. They are also time consuming to install. Check out the caster plates or frame drop brackets. (Or Delta/Slee radius arms if you're inclined)
 
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Apr 15, 2018
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Technically lifting the truck without caster correction would make your steering easier during low speed turns and also make it feel looser when at higher speed since it removes your positive caster and moves it towards 0° (and if you lifted it enough would go into the negative range). So it is interesting that you are experiencing the opposite effect of it feeling harder to turn and tighter. The steering stabilizer is really not a required component. The caster should be corrected however. The consensus though is the OME bushings aren't the best option as they are polyurethane and prone to cracking. They are also time consuming to install. Check out the caster plates or frame drop brackets. (Or Delta/Slee radius arms if you're inclined)
Im so dumb, i just noticed power steering fluid leaking...
I really appreciate your help though...
I recently replaced the pump and there was a hose that wasnt clamped all the way...
It popped off and blew the fluid all over so yup, there it is...
I didnt notice it before but i turned it on and boom, saw the leak.
 
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Oct 7, 2013
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Im so dumb, i just noticed power steering fluid leaking...
I really appreciate your help though...
I recently replaced the pump and there was a hose that wasnt clamped all the way...
It popped off and blew the fluid all over so yup, there it is...
I didnt notice it before but i turned it on and boom, saw the leak.
Per your first post...
1: Torque steer is only felt on front wheel drive cars upon heavy acceleration with un equal length halfshafts.
2: your twitchyness is 100% caused by no caster correction. It needs to be addressed (bajaphile's post is correct) with bushings (imo worst way) new LCA's that compensate for the lift or drop brackets for the rear of the stock arms or new rotating brackets for the front of the stock arms.
3: stiff steering is 100% caused by your loss of power steering fluid.
 
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Apr 8, 2021
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Washington, USA
Technically lifting the truck without caster correction would make your steering easier during low speed turns and also make it feel looser when at higher speed since it removes your positive caster and moves it towards 0° (and if you lifted it enough would go into the negative range). So it is interesting that you are experiencing the opposite effect of it feeling harder to turn and tighter. The steering stabilizer is really not a required component. The caster should be corrected however. The consensus though is the OME bushings aren't the best option as they are polyurethane and prone to cracking. They are also time consuming to install. Check out the caster plates or frame drop brackets. (Or Delta/Slee radius arms if you're inclined)

Excuse my ignorance but caster plates are to improve the handling/steering of vehicles after lifts right? Would caster plates be needed for 2"-2.5" lifts or are they for +3" lifts and higher?

I'm guessing that after a proper 2" or 3" lift youre going to want to install panhard lift brackets as well as caster plates?
 
Joined
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Vegas
Per your first post...
1: Torque steer is only felt on front wheel drive cars upon heavy acceleration with un equal length halfshafts.
2: your twitchyness is 100% caused by no caster correction. It needs to be addressed (bajaphile's post is correct) with bushings (imo worst way) new LCA's that compensate for the lift or drop brackets for the rear of the stock arms or new rotating brackets for the front of the stock arms.
3: stiff steering is 100% caused by your loss of power steering fluid.
Thank you for that tip!
I refilled my power steering fluid and its good to go!
Also i am installing caster plates from Slee.
I have couple friends who installed them with the same suspension as me...
In their words... “being a little over caster is better than being under...”
That being said...
I reeeeally like all of Landtank products, which i know he makes plates for 2.5 , but im def planning to go a little higher sooner than later.
 

Delta VS

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Excuse my ignorance but caster plates are to improve the handling/steering of vehicles after lifts right? Would caster plates be needed for 2"-2.5" lifts or are they for +3" lifts and higher?

I'm guessing that after a proper 2" or 3" lift youre going to want to install panhard lift brackets as well as caster plates?
Anything after 1.5" or so of lift and the caster should be addressed, for sure. If nothing else, it should at least be checked to see if any additional parts/work is needed.
 
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I found caster correction unnecessary for a 2" lift, which is very common in Australia since that's the max road legal lift you can do without big money/hassle to get it registered. No opinion beyond that as I've never driven something with more than a 2" lift, but up to that height at least I'd vote to keep everything else stock.
 

mudgudgeon

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I found caster correction unnecessary for a 2" lift, which is very common in Australia since that's the max road legal lift you can do without big money/hassle to get it registered. No opinion beyond that as I've never driven something with more than a 2" lift, but up to that height at least I'd vote to keep everything else stock.
With 2" of lift, your going to be right on the line between almost zero caster and negative caster depending on what you had prior to lift.
Some get away with no correction on 2" lifts, but it will handle far better, and be safer in that ohh shït moment with correct caster
 

Delta VS

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Gotcha, and panhard lift brackets if i decide to go 3" and up?
Lift bracket (no S there, you don't want one on the front unless you move steering linkage too), and you will notice a difference with those anything over 2 or 2.5" or so. Need to adjust other things if you are going to put a bracket on with less than 3" of lift though, to make sure you limit contact/interference between the bracket and the frame cross member above it.
 
Joined
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Washington, USA
Lift bracket (no S there, you don't want one on the front unless you move steering linkage too), and you will notice a difference with those anything over 2 or 2.5" or so. Need to adjust other things if you are going to put a bracket on with less than 3" of lift though, to make sure you limit contact/interference between the bracket and the frame cross member above it.
Oh okay its all making more sense now, lol.

Thanks for the clarification, preciate it! :)
 

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