Question about POR-15 (1 Viewer)

[coiled40gary]

Here is the inside of the tub, sorry about the shadows and the quality, real pictures scanned. The inside of the tub is Durabak. The thing across the roll cage is the cradle for my scuba tank (on-board air). The red in that, that cushens the tank, is that plastic dip for tool handles, I painted it on.

gary

 

[coiled40gary]

The under side of the tub is done in Durabak.
I also trimmed the cross tube in front of the rear tire, cut, folded the two side onto themselves, then welded. So it looks like it was made that way and is still pretty strong. It clears 35s with the stock under axle springs. Also trimmed the back of the tub under the tranny tunnel, this allows the t-case to be taken off by itself with the tub and tranny still on.

gary

 

[coiled40gary]

And here is the frame. Durabak on the outside (the black), POR-15 on the inside (the gray). This was done before the XCL and sliders. The sliders I made later and coated with Herculiner. This is also when I made my two inch body lift. The front bumper I made, but have since trimmed the ends back about 5 inches on each end. That is covered with POR-15's Chassis Black. That was made by the way from ship channel, which is 6 inch C channel, except the inside radius's are much smaller, allowing the channel to sit on and bolt to the frame ends (a chance find in a salvage yard). And the hangers that the D rings are on are actually two lengths of 1/2" bar stock that I grinded part of each down and welded together like those old wood clothes pins. They go through the bumper and straddle both sides of the frame rails, where 1/2" bolts go through them. And then welded to the bumper. I've since added two rubber dock bumpers to the front of the bumper between the receiver and D rings as well.

gary

 

[Morse_FJ40]

Gary,

You must have an older cruiser cause my 78 you can pull the tranny and case as one with any trimming. I did that the first year I had it after I stripped the teeth on the output shaft!!! I had a hard time looking at you pics... need some v8 juice!! Ha just kidding!

later
Ryan

 

[ozarkcruiser]

Great pictures Gary and Morse. Gary, what prep did you do to your tub to durabak it, and did you spray or roll it.
JAke

 

[Gus]

I've also used POR-15/ all the prep products on most of my FJ40 with primarily positive results. It appears to adhere better to slightly course surfaces (sand blasted steel) than smooth surfaces (brand new sheet metal). BTW, It doesn't stick to aluminum at all, so don't waste your time trying that. Ideally, I prefer powdercoating or polyurethane spray-on bedliner, depending upon the part of the cruiser; it seems to hold up better than anything else I've seen or tried.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Gary,

You must have an older cruiser cause my 78 you can pull the tranny and case as one with any trimming. I did that the first year I had it after I stripped the teeth on the output shaft!!! I had a hard time looking at you pics... need some v8 juice!! Ha just kidding!

later
Ryan

early to mid 60's had a brace right there that sometimes gets in the way, also, the floor isn't cut quite as far back, but his looks like regular old tub

 

[coiled40gary]

Gary,

You must have an older cruiser cause my 78 you can pull the tranny and case as one with any trimming. I did that the first year I had it after I stripped the teeth on the output shaft!!! I had a hard time looking at you pics... need some v8 juice!! Ha just kidding!

later
Ryan

Yes, the tranny and t-case come out as one, by trimming the opening in the floor further back, you can pull the t-case by itself, leaving the tranny in place. By trimming the opening back, you have the room to slide the t-case off the tranny output shaft while still in the vehicle. The cover goes back quite a bit further than the opening in the floor.

Mine is a '76, so not much older.

gary

 

[coiled40gary]

Great pictures Gary and Morse. Gary, what prep did you do to your tub to durabak it, and did you spray or roll it.
JAke

I hit the tube with a pressure washer, which did not remove some of the existing under coat, and removed none of the original paint. The areas where the grease slings from the drive shaft u-joints, I wiped down with Zylene, which is the solvent for Durabak, and I think maybe for POR-15 as well, and it smells similar to curing POR-15.

Durabak was originally designed for non-slip safety coating, so the stuff sticks very well to about anything. Unlike the POR-15. The Durabak has a rough finish through, like sand paper. Herculiner is about the same stuff, but the finish is not as abrasive.

On the inside of the tube, I first did POR-15. But it did not turn out anywhere near as nice as Ryan's. I did not get all the original paint up, and everywhere the original paint was, the POR-15 pealed. The Durabak went right over the top that mess.

gary

 

[coiled40gary]

If you use Metal Ready to prep for POR-15, it is important that you flush well with water before the the POR-15. If any of the Metal Ready is still there, when the POR-15 is applied, it will out-gas under the POR-15, and cause it to peal.

gary