How much Por-15 is needed to put a few coats on a 40 frame? I would hate to buy a gallon when I only need a quart?
Jake
Jake
Question about POR-15 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ozarkcruiser
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If you get a gallon, you can go to a hardware store and buy 4 new empty quart cans. Pour off the gallon into smaller cans and seal them up good after pouring a little of their thinner on the surface. Then when you need it, it will be there. I think you could get by with 1/2 a gallon for the frame. You can thin it a little and shoot it with an undercoating gun or go the route I did and use a toilet brush to get up inside the frame. After a while you will find reason to use the other leftovers believe me.
I don't know the answer to your question but will be waiting for the answer for I am looking to apply it to the inside floor and some frame. I found it to be cheapest on Ebay (1gallon plus solvent , tape etc. and free ship & handling = $105.00). the local store wants $39 for a quart. I also asked the shelf life after opening = 6 months.
Hope this helps.
John
Hope this helps.
John
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I think I used a couple quarts....I brushed it on so I don't know it would take with a sprayer
I used 2 quarts of the eastwood stuff thats like por-15, except you can paint over it. But I sprayed it. If you are brushing it, you might not need as much.
I used a quart for 2 coats of Por15 brushed on and a quart of black top coat.
JTO use to be the cheapest on E-Bay at $31 and free shipping but now he's at $33.39 plus shipping. I just bought from Por-outlet on ebay for $33 plus $3 shipping and free brushes and gloves (Score!!)
Kevin
JTO use to be the cheapest on E-Bay at $31 and free shipping but now he's at $33.39 plus shipping. I just bought from Por-outlet on ebay for $33 plus $3 shipping and free brushes and gloves (Score!!)
Kevin
My experience with POR15 is that you should run away as fast as you can from it. The stuff has never done what it claims even with the proper prep work. Find another product that works or save your $$$>
it worked awesome for me and i only half ass prepped it.
I used Magnetpaints. Worked pissah.
I am almost done painting my frame with POR-15, I have been using this product for 4 or 5 years now and love it!!! Here is a tip when using it, get some sheet metal screws the ones with the rubber and metal washers. Drill those into the top of the can of POR-15, 180 degrees from each other, at the outer edge of the can. 1 screw is for pouring out of, and the 2nd is for air flow. This will make the can last a lot longer than opening and closing the lid.
I have been brushing it on the frame but am waiting for my new undercoating gun to spray inside the frame rails.
I will show you some pics.
later
Ryan
I have been brushing it on the frame but am waiting for my new undercoating gun to spray inside the frame rails.
I will show you some pics.
later
Ryan
Ryan,
I want to do the same thing but the inside of my frame rails ar DIRTY. How did you clean yours out?
I want to do the same thing but the inside of my frame rails ar DIRTY. How did you clean yours out?
- Thread starter
- #12
Morse_FJ40 said:
I' ll be looking for those pics!
I've used quite a bit of POR-15 with mixed results. Works well if the surface is clean an rough, and no other coatings under it. Spent quite awhile on the phone with the factory about 7 or 8 years ago. If you sweat while you work, be very careful not to let a drip of sweat fall in the paint can. A POR-15 engineer told me that. If you over coat with the POR-15 Chassis Black, the final finish, glossy or flat is effected by how much drying the POR-15 did before applying the over coat.
One big concern from reading this thread, unless things have changed, atomizing POR-15 is very dangerous, and requires a full chem suit. Back then, POR-15 was working on a sprayer to get into hard to reach places like door and frame rails for rust protecting, but this sprayer was not going to atomize. If you use a gun on an air compressor, I think this does atomize.
I used POR-15 on the inside of my frame, just dabbed it in with a brush, and Durabak on the outside of the frame. Durabak sticks to anything very well with little prep, and has rubber bits in it to dampen the noise from gravel coming off the tires on gravel roads. Durabak'd the inside and underside of my tub too. Red inside, and black under side, took a gallon each side, rolled (stipple roller) and brushed it on
gary
One big concern from reading this thread, unless things have changed, atomizing POR-15 is very dangerous, and requires a full chem suit. Back then, POR-15 was working on a sprayer to get into hard to reach places like door and frame rails for rust protecting, but this sprayer was not going to atomize. If you use a gun on an air compressor, I think this does atomize.
I used POR-15 on the inside of my frame, just dabbed it in with a brush, and Durabak on the outside of the frame. Durabak sticks to anything very well with little prep, and has rubber bits in it to dampen the noise from gravel coming off the tires on gravel roads. Durabak'd the inside and underside of my tub too. Red inside, and black under side, took a gallon each side, rolled (stipple roller) and brushed it on
gary
- Thread starter
- #14
coiled40gary said:
Gary,
Can you send me some pics of your durabaked tub? jakelear@yahoo.com
Thanks,
Jake.
Jake,
I will send you some pics of my frame tonight when I get home from work, I am at my dad's and the pics are on the other computer. I also painted the entire inside/underside of my freshly sandlbasted tub, man it looks great. Next I will paint the inside of the tub with POR-15 Tie Coat Primer and then Herculiner the entire inside. I am not going to herculine the underside of my tub beacause the dirt and mud will have a place to stick to with the herciliner. I feel it will be eaiser to clean with just Por-15 for a smooth finish.
later
Ryan
I will send you some pics of my frame tonight when I get home from work, I am at my dad's and the pics are on the other computer. I also painted the entire inside/underside of my freshly sandlbasted tub, man it looks great. Next I will paint the inside of the tub with POR-15 Tie Coat Primer and then Herculiner the entire inside. I am not going to herculine the underside of my tub beacause the dirt and mud will have a place to stick to with the herciliner. I feel it will be eaiser to clean with just Por-15 for a smooth finish.
later
Ryan
Fearnofish! said:
I cleaned my frame rails out with a sewer jetter. It's a pressure washer that runs down sewer lines using high pressure water to clean the pipes. I ran it down the inside of both frame rails end to end. It cut though all the mud, rust and grease in no time.
Kevin
foxfab said:
I put some new floorpans in a VW Bug once, and used POR15. I used their Metal Prep and everything like they said. s*** peeled off.
Operator Error if it peeled up
Here are some pics
First is pic of my frame and old body.
pics of frame after it had been sandblasted and POR-15, I still have to spray inside the fame rail with an undercoating gun.
Here are some pics
First is pic of my frame and old body.
pics of frame after it had been sandblasted and POR-15, I still have to spray inside the fame rail with an undercoating gun.
Here are pics of the new body after being sandblasted and getting a nice coat of POR-15.
Ozarkcruiser_ I mostly have chunks of rdirt and rocks in the frame rail, so I hooked up the shop vac into a hole and then shot in from the other end with the air compressor. I also used a long punch to break up the hard stuff work really well. It also helped sandblasting it, theat thing can move alot of stuff.
later
Ryan
Ozarkcruiser_ I mostly have chunks of rdirt and rocks in the frame rail, so I hooked up the shop vac into a hole and then shot in from the other end with the air compressor. I also used a long punch to break up the hard stuff work really well. It also helped sandblasting it, theat thing can move alot of stuff.
later
Ryan
