It’s not hard. The Milford comes with enough hardware to set up anchor points behind the front and second rows of seats. The barrier mounts to anchors with thumb screws. So to remove the barrier it is just a matter of removing the four thumb screws and then reinstalling it behind the other seats or pulling it out altogether. The barrier closely matches the cross-sectional shape of the cargo area so it requires a bit of panache to get it over the rear wheel wells. I haven’t removed mine yet, but I’d be surprised if it took me over ten minutes.
Yep, very fast - undo the two upper thumb screws, undo the two bottom screws (I have used flat heads here to keep cargo area flat) and out she pops - one of the reasons why I went with a real one vs make my own.
The 2nd posiiton behind the first row apparently only works if you do not have a sunroof.
I'm fixin' to do this soon so I can run into things without fear of flying objects. My only question is how much the interior gets butchered for the install.  o you just drill a few holes in things or cut some interior panels or ???
I'm fixin' to do this soon so I can run into things without fear of flying objects. My only question is how much the interior gets butchered for the install. Do you just drill a few holes in things or cut some interior panels or ???
Life is filled with tradeoffs. The Milford barrier is rated for an accident (ie notes the speed and mass that the barrier can withstand). If you look at the Milford site, you also see that the barrier provides at least some additional protection in a roll-over situation (have you ever noticed that most rollovers in the ditch seem to be SUVs or PUs - especially in the winter)
In order for the barrier to perform in these conditions, it needs (1) well designed hardware (eg the brackets have 'elongation zones' - my term - that look like ripples in the bracket. In an accident, these would elongate to absorb some of the energy (2) beefy hardware. On some other list someone was contemplating installing the barrier using the hand hold screws. If you have ever looked at the hand hold screws, you would see what a mistake this is. The Milford install hardware is very beefy.
Which brings me to the final point. (3) you need to mount the barrier securely within the vehicle. This does require drilling three holes for eaching mounting point into steel on the truck (there are 4 points for the rear location and another 4 if you install the front location as well). These are used to insert a thick steel backing plate behind the sheet metal and then the bracket is what the barrier actually attaches to.
The two floor locations are not visible (mine are under the carpet and there is no need to drill the carpet). The two upper locations are sort of in a strange place. The are effectively on the 'lip' of the cargo area window frames (sort of hard to explain), so not too bad. In this case, you do need to drill through the headliner. Miford supplies covers that completely cover the holes if the barrier is removed.
My vote - if you want the safety aspect, ya gotta secure to something solid = drilling required. :tear: Consider it practive for installing an air intake!
PS I bought mine from Jim. He was willing to get it to me, which was a challenge, but I had to hound him a bit to make things happen.
This is a picture of an installed floor mount. Note the 'elongation zones' in the mounting bracket. The duct tape is covering a few extra holes I drilled :-[  on't just go by the measurements, mount the barrier and test the fit!
This gives you an idea of the size of the holes (22mm is the big one)
...and this one shows you why you shouldn't put your life and the life of your family at risk by using the hand hold mounting points (shows backing plate and mounting hardware vs OEM hand hold bolt)