Quarter Panels On A FJ40

M

matgood

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May 15, 2002
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15
Hey everyone, My '72 FJ40 needs some new quarter panels(about the only really bad spot on the truck that and the rocker panels). A friend of a friend restores cars for a living and said he could weld in some new ones for me.. just wondering if anybody knows the best place to buy them. I've seen the ones at CCOT and the look to be the best so far... Just wondering if anybody has any input. I would like to do both at the same time.
 
IDave

IDave

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McCall, ID
I just put on a quarter panel from CCOT and am very pleased with the result.
 
smcruisin

smcruisin

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Saanichton, BC, Canada
I've got the same panels that extremebends.com sells (bought them from the guy who makes the panels). The really interesting thing about them is that they are 14 gauge steel. Just to compare stock panels are ~18 gauge. Thicker panels will warp less when they are installed (welded) and resist dent much better. I don't know were you live, but more metal also means after ten years of our Canadian winters, you can go nuts with the wire-wheel/grinding bit/sandblaster and still have metal of a weldable thickness.

This may not apply to you b/c you only mentioned the 1/4 panels, but if I could give any advice on new panels, you should be realistic with yourself as to your project's outcomes. In my case, I intended to replace my trucks body (everything below the hardtop and behind the driver&pass. seats. My panels (same as extremebends) were ~CAN$1300 (though now they are more) and that is uninstalled! All the hours I spent meticulously aligning rear door opening (ie. square opening, not diamond or trapezoid) only to find that all the floor crossmembers had 'hidden' cancer. As well as the driver&pass. door sills and floors (more 'hidden' cancer that was only found upon teardown or scraping away 'aparently good' undercoat). IMHO an aluminum tub from AQUALU is a bargain at ~CAN$2800 when you consider it is fully welded (assembled) on a jig, and includes the whole driver&pass floor and doors sills. Unless your truck is pristene except for the 1/4's, the Al tub is the ONLY way to go. Sawzall at the bottom of the firewall, four bodymount bolts, spend a few days grinding/scraping/sandblasting your frame, then get a few buddies over for the weekend to wiggle the tub around on the frame before final attachment... &nbsp:Done! no messing with welding new panels to old/rusty/thin s*?, no thinking hard to keep the whole assembly in alignment. Just send it off to get painted.

(and I don't want to hear any whiners about electrolysis or dissimilar metals, If you do a job the 'right' way, you won't have any troubles).

yeah, quite a babble I know, but I'm kicking myself for being 'cheap' by only buying panels, and having to fabricate all sorts of puzzlepiece driver&pass floor patches as well as reserecting old crossmembers when an Al tub would have been done by the end of summer 2002 and have only cost another ~CAN$1500.

BTW, what is my CAN$.02 worth in US$?!
 
M

Mavric1298

Joined
Oct 28, 2002
Messages
163
Im sorry to tell ya, but its worth alot less then our 2 cents :D
 
B

burnt03

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Peachland, BC, Canada
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members.sounddomain.com
BTW, what is my CAN$.02 worth in US$?!

Hmmm, according to my calculations... SFA :D

Whereabouts are you in Canada?
And which panels did you get? I got the surprise of rotted crossmember too, but wasn't too concerned, not doing a full resto on this thing anyways, just want to keep the snow out...
Still trying to find a sheet of appropriate size 16ga sheet metal for the floor... the old one is tacked in w/ a couple welds and it's getting chilly
 

Guest

Guest
Hey guys, I just bought those panels maybe a month ago for my '66. The inner fenders are 14 Ga, while the quarter panels themselves are 18 Ga.
I am sure of this because I asked him if he could stamp them out in 16 Ga. Looking at the panels, 18 Ga is plenty thick, and the quality of the stampings is very good. He also stamped mine out without a filler openning because I want to keep my stock filler neck, and I'm working on a stainless auxillary tank for the back.
I haven't started cutting out the old metal yet, but I am fairly optimistic. All the cross members are sound, I just need to go back and get a sill kit, and I'll be ready to go. I just don't like to take the cruiser off the road.
 
smcruisin

smcruisin

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Oct 26, 2002
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226
Location
Saanichton, BC, Canada
burnt03, I'm in Vancouver, BC. Where are you?
BTW, that is one cool link!!! Even though Spencer's instructions are very complete, It's nice to have a visual of how things go together. I can't wait to finish so I can go road tripping to Edmonton to see what else those guys have to offer!

I got the panels from Spencer Redshaw, he is the guy actually making them (ie extreme bends just carries his panels). He is in Surry, BC. (15min from Vancouver for those who don't know)

I got everything he makes except for the driver & pass. floor pans, and I only skipped on those b/c they didn't patch over where I had rust. Everything else consists of L&R rear 1/4 panels, L&R inner fender wells, rear door sill and rear door pillars, rear floor, and the panel that houses the sending unit access hatch. (I didn't need lower door skins b/c my doors are in gr8 shape). btw. his front door skins are 6 or 8 inches tall vs. only four inches from Cool Cruisers Of Texas.

also, Spencers 1/4 Panels are ~$100 cheaper than CCOT (plus they are in CAN$). They are excellent in terms of fit and quality.

Cheers,
Steve
 
B

burnt03

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I'm in Kelowna, BC

Aww man, I was trying to find out who it was that was suppling extremebends, see if I could get them cheaper. Oh well.. apparently that guy supplies both extremebends and 4wheelauto

You coming my way anytime soon? Wouldn't mind taking the cruiser out with another 40!
 
72cruiser

72cruiser

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Dec 29, 2002
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2,692
Location
nashville, tn
hey,

coachconverter has a bunch of panels for a 72.

Sheet Metal new and used for a 1972 or same
« on: 01/16/03 at 13:11:51 »

it's in the for sale section

jonathan
 
P

plan66

Joined
Jan 28, 2003
Messages
31
Great link burnt03. Spencer went through all the details of the panel install, but it sure helps to see it in pictures. I just hope it goes as smoothly when I start cutting into the rust. If I could only get the old Renault mobile so I can focus on the cruiser...
 
W

woco2011

Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
2
'78 FJ40 Quarter Panels

I just bought a '78 FJ40 and it is in great condition except for some rust in the usual places. The quarter panels are by far the biggest problem and need to be replaced. I have found some replacements from PACOL Online http://www.pacolonline.com/. These come with the rails so I won't have to fabricate like I would if I got the ones from CCOT. My question is; how difficult is the process of installing these panels and how do I go about taking the old ones off and putting these on? Thanks
IMG 0144
 
brian

brian

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go digging a little bit did we?


there is more rust there than you think.
with the ccot panels you cut below the upper edge for the hardtop. the only decent way to put them on, is by welding them on. a plasma would be best, but a grinder with cutoff wheels works well also. the level of difficultly depends on your skill set. i think they are a piece of cake to do.
 
stock

stock

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Philadelphia, PA, USA
I got a pair of quarter panels and wheelwells from www.extremebends.com

Up here in Canada, so there's the shipping issue, but don't forget your dollar is worth like $1.70 here....

So might be better in the long run?

I just checked them out. Sent them an email. You like the quality still? I'm looking at the quarter and wheel well combo.
 
alberta mac

alberta mac

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'78 FJ40 Quarter Panels

I just bought a '78 FJ40 and it is in great condition except for some rust in the usual places. The quarter panels are by far the biggest problem and need to be replaced. I have found some replacements from PACOL Online Pacol, Llc - Land Cruiser Body Panels, Accessories Fj40, Automotive Metal Stampings. These come with the rails so I won't have to fabricate like I would if I got the ones from CCOT. My question is; how difficult is the process of installing these panels and how do I go about taking the old ones off and putting these on? Thanks
View attachment 475348

If you have welding & fitting skills then hey ! if your novice then you want to be methodical about the way you go about removing old metal. Just as what was said before surprises when finding more rusty channels and underbed metal that also needs replacing !

I have been through this myself but was a welder fitter and replaced my half tub in #304 stainless steel. As below.
Mind it is an old pic but any new pics are of it painted.
IMG 1721
 

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