Put a hole through the roof on my 94, help me brainstorm solutions

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Hi guys

I pulled the stock roof rack and I'm in the process of grinding the screw inserts flush. I went to far on one and it fell through. I currently have a hole about ~3/8" in diameter on the front left side of the roof.

One thing I've thought of is somehow lowering a bent strip of steel in through the hole with adhesive on the sides and attach it to the inner side of the roof. Then at that point it could be somehow sealed.

So far for the other roof rack holes I've been red locktighting a grub screw in the flush screw insert, then sealing with Quick Steel.

Any suggestions are welcome.
 
Jb weld unless you want to drop the headliner to weld it.
 
What size grub/set screw are you using for most of the hole, got photos?

Could you tack weld the screw in place then grind the area flush, then either apply JB Weld or body putty over that area before painting?

FWIW: I applied some Industrial JB Weld where my rear wind/dust deflector mounts to the rear hatch due to rust issues and scalloping of the sheet metal underneath along with one very small hole in the metal. It still looks solid a few years later but I am starting to see a micro-thin line of rusty discoloration where the JB Weld meets the sheet metal; most likely due to the rattle can paint that was used or inadequate prep; but the main point is that the JB weld appears solid.
 
Why not just put another rivetnut back in the hole? They're easy enough to install with a bolt and a nut. How are you sealing the others?
 
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Here's the hole next to one showing what I've been doing. I have that JB weld Steel Stick that mechanist posted, and that's what I'm using to seal on top of the grub screw and then sanding them flat.

My only gripe about using the Steel Stick for the hole is there is very little surface area to create a bond. But I guess as long as it holds with paint over it, it might work...

Unfortunately I don't have a welder at the moment.
 
To make the hole repair flush with the existing roof and so that it will stay put and not fall in, you need to bevel the hole downward with a ball peen hammer (ball end down and hit with another hammer) or something similar. This will dent the hole downward so the steel stick will be tapered so it will not fall through the hole at a later date. It also allows you to bondo/prime/paint which will completely hide your repair. If rust is present, apply POR15 before steel stick.

Here's the results on post #2 pics:
BUILD THREAD FOR THE "German Shepherd"
 
Thanks for the suggestion Summit Cruisers, I'll give that a shot tonight.
 
I actually used a tapered punch that was slightly bigger than the hole. The ball peen hammer may be too big and create a much bigger dent than needed. The dent needs to be about twice the diameter or thereabouts of the existing hole.
 
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Only solution

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Slap some aluminum tape over it and "fix it correctly later".
 
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You need to run down to Pep Boys and get a 3/8 hole remover tool.

:beer:
 

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