Purchased an 80 Series as a family vehicle but who are we kidding? It won't stay stock for long (1 Viewer)

[cahill]

I am not sure my advice is sound....just another internet opinion. I wanted to jump in with both feet on the mods when I purchased mine but didn't have the funds at the time and didn't want to piece meal it together. I am glad that I waited because my needs have changed over the years and seen the regrets of people with overly lifted vehicles, roll overs, and scaling back of lifts and tire sizes. In the meantime while on the sidelines I have found out as many have preached that the 80 is a pretty capable vehicle stock. When I upgrade the suspension I am thinking high quality shocks with springs suited to my vehicles weight with minimal lift will suit my needs nicely. I don't wheel crazy but like to be off the beaten path and would like to have a dialed in suspension for comfort at moderate speed on dirt.

Also I am partial to the stock wheels. The allow wheels are strong and light, look good when cleaned up and the 16" rim gives more side wall for the tire. It may have less tire selection but I haven't had issues finding suitable tires for the 16 rims. I also like the stock steel rims with skinny tires but the rims are heavier than the alloy rims and haven't had issues with the allow rims yet so can't find a reason to change. There are some nice aftermarket rims too. The 300 series LC will have 6 lug pattern and larger rims and may have the right backspacing but haven't explored that as an option. Figured I may look at it down the road if I need larger brakes/calipers than can fit a 16 rim but I have kept my vehicles stock so far and the brakes work for what I have right now.

 

[lsustang05]

OK, so no mods have been done yet, but I have a weird issue I can't seem to figure out. I thought it was a dead battery, and I still need to get it tested, but it's a bit perplexing.

Usually it's overnight, but sometimes it will happen in the middle of the day, and just happened when I stopped for lunch and turned the truck off.

When I open the door and go to insert the key, I get all of the lights on the dash like normal, the chime of the key in ignition, and the battery gauge reads right in the middle if not a little higher than the middle. Go to turn the truck on, and it's like a completely dead battery. No click of the starter or anything, just straight up dead. If I then cycle the key to off, then to start again, same thing, completely dead. If I do it at least one more, sometime a few more times, it will then fire up and start and then the battery gauge reads around 3/4 up on the gauge.

I am making sure before I turn the truck off that I have turned off the radio, turned off the headlights, made sure wipers are off if they were on, and I have verified the dome light is off (as in I don't even have it set to turn on with the door opening). I also have been making sure I have the A/C turned off before I go to turn the key over.

My first thought is a battery on the way out. Maybe a starter that needs replacing. Anybody have any ideas?

 

[Delta VS]

OK, so no mods have been done yet, but I have a weird issue I can't seem to figure out. I thought it was a dead battery, and I still need to get it tested, but it's a bit perplexing.

Usually it's overnight, but sometimes it will happen in the middle of the day, and just happened when I stopped for lunch and turned the truck off.

When I open the door and go to insert the key, I get all of the lights on the dash like normal, the chime of the key in ignition, and the battery gauge reads right in the middle if not a little higher than the middle. Go to turn the truck on, and it's like a completely dead battery. No click of the starter or anything, just straight up dead. If I then cycle the key to off, then to start again, same thing, completely dead. If I do it at least one more, sometime a few more times, it will then fire up and start and then the battery gauge reads around 3/4 up on the gauge.

I am making sure before I turn the truck off that I have turned off the radio, turned off the headlights, made sure wipers are off if they were on, and I have verified the dome light is off (as in I don't even have it set to turn on with the door opening). I also have been making sure I have the A/C turned off before I go to turn the key over.

My first thought is a battery on the way out. Maybe a starter that needs replacing. Anybody have any ideas?

Sounds like possibly the fusible link is on the fritz/bad connection? Typically the thing attached to positive post of your battery, couple/few wires to a little black plastic box. Easy to replace (should ALWAYS have two spares in the glove box) and not expensive.

 

[lsustang05]

Sounds like possibly the fusible link is on the fritz/bad connection? Typically the thing attached to positive post of your battery, couple/few wires to a little black plastic box. Easy to replace (should ALWAYS have two spares in the glove box) and not expensive.

Just purchased two from Wits End. If it's bad, I have a replacement, if not, I have two spares. I'll check the fusible link when I get home to see if I can spot anything fishy. Thanks!

 

[Devils Paw 80]

Foot on brake? I made that mistake recently with mine, since it's new to me. This is not necessary on FJ62 but is on 80.

 

[lsustang05]

Foot on brake? I made that mistake recently with mine, since it's new to me. This is not necessary on FJ62 but is on 80.

Didn’t know this was a requirement. I’ll make sure to try with and without and update.

 

[RS6tofj80]

I'd agree on 35's and 2-ish inches being the sweet spot .... Icon's are grea, t but have to say I'm happy with the OME's on this one so far for the $.....and my last 200 build had the Icon stage 5 setup with Tundra long travel kit on top....the solid axle limits the need for the CDC valving and long travel to an extent I think...although with the disconnects it flexes quite well, but slowly...

happy to meet up if you'd like to check out my rig and drive it.... it has many of the other things you're thinking of like 4x4 labs rear etc.... I'm out in Fulshear.

E

 

[GorgeFJ80]

OK, so no mods have been done yet, but I have a weird issue I can't seem to figure out. I thought it was a dead battery, and I still need to get it tested, but it's a bit perplexing.

Usually it's overnight, but sometimes it will happen in the middle of the day, and just happened when I stopped for lunch and turned the truck off.

When I open the door and go to insert the key, I get all of the lights on the dash like normal, the chime of the key in ignition, and the battery gauge reads right in the middle if not a little higher than the middle. Go to turn the truck on, and it's like a completely dead battery. No click of the starter or anything, just straight up dead. If I then cycle the key to off, then to start again, same thing, completely dead. If I do it at least one more, sometime a few more times, it will then fire up and start and then the battery gauge reads around 3/4 up on the gauge.

I am making sure before I turn the truck off that I have turned off the radio, turned off the headlights, made sure wipers are off if they were on, and I have verified the dome light is off (as in I don't even have it set to turn on with the door opening). I also have been making sure I have the A/C turned off before I go to turn the key over.

My first thought is a battery on the way out. Maybe a starter that needs replacing. Anybody have any ideas?

Had this happen on my 91 & it was a relay. EFI relay if I remember right... ignition relay makes more sense but could be EFI relay cuts power to ignition if not engaged.

Just something to check...

 

[lsustang05]

Alright, so does anybody have tricks to removing the front shocks?

I was able to get the passenger side, which had actually rusted and broken free from the bottom mount. The top nut wouldn’t come free so I stopped asking and busted out the cutoff wheel. I then replaced with just a Bilstein 4600 shock.

Unfortunately, the driver side is not cooperating. I have been soaking the nuts and shock shafts in PB Blaster for about 3 or 4 days now, but they won’t budge. The little flat spots at the end of the shocks don’t seem to allow enough purchase for a set of vise grips or a crescent wrench to grab on to either. It’s actually why I needed the cutoff wheel on the passenger side - I rounded off the flat spots trying to get the nut to move.

So long story long - anybody have any tips on getting the shocks out? I’m thinking a M24 Fuel impact while holding the shock body to bust loose the bottom nut and then actually cut the shock shaft with the cutoff wheel and pull the shaft up through the engine bay. Any other ideas?

 

[manofthewoods]

Alright, so does anybody have tricks to removing the front shocks?

I was able to get the passenger side, which had actually rusted and broken free from the bottom mount. The top nut wouldn’t come free so I stopped asking and busted out the cutoff wheel. I then replaced with just a Bilstein 4600 shock.

View attachment 2978466

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View attachment 2978465

Unfortunately, the driver side is not cooperating. I have been soaking the nuts and shock shafts in PB Blaster for about 3 or 4 days now, but they won’t budge. The little flat spots at the end of the shocks don’t seem to allow enough purchase for a set of vise grips or a crescent wrench to grab on to either. It’s actually why I needed the cutoff wheel on the passenger side - I rounded off the flat spots trying to get the nut to move.

So long story long - anybody have any tips on getting the shocks out? I’m thinking a M24 Fuel impact while holding the shock body to bust loose the bottom nut and then actually cut the shock shaft with the cutoff wheel and pull the shaft up through the engine bay. Any other ideas?

I used a Pipe wrench to hold the shock. I carefully wedged it above the disc. Laid towels all over below to cushion the drop from when the bolt would let go. I used an impact on the nut from above.
Worked on both sides - lickety split!

 

[lsustang05]

I used a Pipe wrench to hold the shock. I carefully wedged it above the disc. Laid towels all over below to cushion the drop from when the bolt would let go. I used an impact on the nut from above.
Worked on both sides - lickety split!

How did you access the top nut on the driver side with an impact? Right above my shock nut is the brake booster. Did you just use a swivel joint?

 

[manofthewoods]

How did you access the top nut on the driver side with an impact? Right above my shock nut is the brake booster. Did you just use a swivel joint?

I just took a look, I can't remember if I used a U joint, or socket. I do remember standing in the engine bay (it was out). The pipe wrench trick should work for you.