Pulling radiator (1 Viewer)

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I got my new radiator today and want to start putting it in tonight what would be the best way to pull the old one out, would I just want to pull it out from the top or take the grill off. Thanks
 
Easy Job, One of the aftermarket manuals says to loosen belts blah blah blah, but you don't need to.
As was already said, remove the lower deflector, drain coolant, remove hoses unbolt bolts and R&R. As I racall, you unbolt the lower brackets from the frame, pull thr rad out with the brackets and switch the brackets once its out. If you have any corrosion on the water neck give it a quick sanding to prevent seepage. Mine was really corroded and dripped ever so slightly until I re-did it right. Its a good time to replace hoses and or water temp sender. There is also a block drain to get most of the water out of the engine as well (I think there is anyway). I've also heard there are some heater hoses underneath for a rear heater that never get changed, so it might be a good time to do those as well.

Mine runs much cooler now!

Toad
 
you will need to loosen the grill to get to 2 of the bolts that hold the rad in, on a 60 is must be loose, on a 62 you can reach them thru the grill

NO need to follow the manual when it says to discharge the AC, just unbolt the thingy and move it out of the way

also, you don't pull the rad by itself you remove it along with the rad mounts
 
i would also add, that depending where you live, this would be a great time to put a heater in the lower radiator hose. mine works great, and i got it set up to come on about three hours b/4 i drive
got mine at tractorparts.com...about 25 bucks.
hammer
 
SO Funny, I just yanked mine today to get it boiled and welded. The only problem I had was the 2 mid section bolts, they just spun and spun... would of had to take the evaporator out to get to the backside so I just cut them..figure I'll put a small tack weld in it when I put it back in...if I have to take it back out I'll just cut the welds and re weld it again. Longest part is cleanin the mud off to get to the bolts
 
These guys are so full of it...

You need to wrap a chain around the radiator (two or three times) then wrap the other end around a tree...put the truck in reverse and PULL like mad...comes out easy.

Actually, I've got nothing to add here - just be sure you get your shroud lined back up right. If it's a little off, your fan could hit it and make a grinding noise when you apply torque...next thing you know you'll be all "my motor mount is shot!" and it goes down hill from there...
 
thats why you must remove or loosen the grill AND(now I remeber) loosen the evaporator and get it out of the way(move to one side then the other), so you can get a hold of those bolts that just spin, if you get to them from the front you can get ahold of them.

Guess I am not the kinda guy to just hack s*** off.....when there is a way to do it......dare I say......the right way ;)

CruisinTiger said:
SO Funny, I just yanked mine today to get it boiled and welded. The only problem I had was the 2 mid section bolts, they just spun and spun... would of had to take the evaporator out to get to the backside so I just cut them..figure I'll put a small tack weld in it when I put it back in...if I have to take it back out I'll just cut the welds and re weld it again. Longest part is cleanin the mud off to get to the bolts
 
SO Funny, I just yanked mine today to get it boiled and welded. The only problem I had was the 2 mid section bolts, they just spun and spun... would of had to take the evaporator out to get to the backside so I just cut them..figure I'll put a small tack weld in it when I put it back in...if I have to take it back out I'll just cut the welds and re weld it again. Longest part is cleanin the mud off to get to the bolts
 
Yeah Landpimp, I was takin the radiator to an old man who could supposedly do it in about a 1/2 hour. Well got it there and he said come pick it up monday...bastid....oh well, I love welding!!
 

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