Pulling motor/tranny what do I do with it? (1 Viewer)

Joined
Feb 19, 2019
Messages
212
Location
BOISE, ID
I’m guessing someone out there has pulled the motor/tranny as one to get at the frame To paint. Was thinking of just getting some 4x4’s etc and building a little cradle to set it on in the garage until it’s ready for paint and to go back in? Just want to make sure I don’t set it down wrong and tweak something etc. prob way over thinking it to be honest.

sequestion is hoist attachment points on the block? Any suggestions?

And yes, I just glossed over the fact (even in my own head) that I’m down the rabbit hole and pulling the entire truck apart... figure I’m pulling the springs off anyway for a 2” lift and replacing the motor mounts so it’s basically already there.

thanms
 

flee

SILVER Star
Joined
May 27, 2020
Messages
80
Location
Chatsworth
Depending on your workspace and storage situation, a wood pallet is easy to find and will keep it off the floor.
Add casters to four corners and you have a ready-made and disposable dolly.
My neighbor had a pallet he wanted gone so I dropped my engine on that in the back of a pickup.
The engine rebuilder has a forklift so dropping the engine off was a piece of cake!
 

pjohnson

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 15, 2003
Messages
2,185
Location
Idaho
 
 
 
I would pull the transfer off. Use 4x4 blocks and 2x4s as needed. It will sit flat on the pan.
 
Joined
Oct 2, 2015
Messages
168
Location
Port Orchard, wa
 
Would you guys suggest unbolting the drive shafts closest to the center or the axles?
BOTH.
You're not going to want to pull the engine, transmission and transfer case with the driveshafts still attached. I guess you could, but it's going to be a lot harder than removing 8 bolts.
And I'm sure many of us have some story about someone we know (ya, like, a friend) who left the driveshaft attached to the axle and tied it up to the truck somewhere, and then moved it, pushing with a forklift or towing with another truck (or pushing it with a 20 ton front end loader), or whatever is similar, and the driveshaft fell out of being tied up and.... That story never has a happy ending (unless it really is a friend, and you got to watch their face as the driveshaft on a 1 ton crew cab pole vaults the rear end of the truck while they are inside it steering). It's a well known recipe of creating an accident.
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2019
Messages
212
Location
BOISE, ID
Soooo is it normal for fluid to come out when you pull the drive shat off?!? That’s a new one for me
 

3_puppies

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 2, 2002
Messages
13,741
Location
Helena MT
 
 
 
 
seen it once in a while, the gear oil works its way in there from the diff.

I set engines with trans and transfers right on the floor, very stable and you won't hurt anything.

next question is what are you going to pull it with? the engine, trans and transfer is very heavy and awkward, I'm lucky as I have access to an overhead crane.
using an engine hoist/cherry picker you want the legs as spread out and as long as possible for stability.
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2019
Messages
212
Location
BOISE, ID
seen it once in a while, the gear oil works its way in there from the diff.

I set engines with trans and transfers right on the floor, very stable and you won't hurt anything.

next question is what are you going to pull it with? the engine, trans and transfer is very heavy and awkward, I'm lucky as I have access to an overhead crane.
using an engine hoist/cherry picker you want the legs as spread out and as long as possible for stability.
The fluid is actually coming from the transfer case
seen it once in a while, the gear oil works its way in there from the diff.

I set engines with trans and transfers right on the floor, very stable and you won't hurt anything.

next question is what are you going to pull it with? the engine, trans and transfer is very heavy and awkward, I'm lucky as I have access to an overhead crane.
using an engine hoist/cherry picker you want the legs as spread out and as long as possible for stability.
good info on setting flat on the floor...might try that with a couple old towels to keep things directly off the concrete

The fluid is actually coming from the transfer case...never would have thought it would have a way to get through there. Do I need to drain it before I pull everything so it’s not leaking all over the place?

I was just planning to use a 1 Ton engine hoist from harbor freight. I’ve pulled engine/trannys out of cars so don’t foresee any issues with it...fingers Crossed though
 

Dizzy

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 5, 2018
Messages
1,676
Location
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Get their 2-ton hoist. I remember thinking that I bought something that I didn't need. Then I realized that the majority of the work was being done on the rear engine hook, or manifold bolt, and that I needed the extra reach of it as the frame cross-member is in the way. I also found that their, 'load leveler' was near essential.

engine pull.jpg


Also, it was helpful to remove the driver rear bellhousing motor mount after I got weight on the crane, and the motor moved a bit forward. It is hard to clear the steering box. And, if your heater valve is on the firewall, get that off as well, as it was in the way. BTW, I opted for installing the bolted together gearboxes after the motor was in, as I don't like the complexity that it presented in the pull, and I didn't want that on the install.

Pulling the engine, and getting the other in, were about two of the most satisfying days working on the 40.
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2019
Messages
212
Location
BOISE, ID
Get their 2-ton hoist. I remember thinking that I bought something that I didn't need. Then I realized that the majority of the work was being done on the rear engine hook, or manifold bolt, and that I needed the extra reach of it as the frame cross-member is in the way. I also found that their, 'load leveler' was near essential.

View attachment 2447621

Also, it was helpful to remove the driver rear bellhousing motor mount after I got weight on the crane, and the motor moved a bit forward. It is hard to clear the steering box. And, if your heater valve is on the firewall, get that off as well, as it was in the way. BTW, I opted for installing the bolted together gearboxes after the motor was in, as I don't like the complexity that it presented in the pull, and I didn't want that on the install.

Pulling the engine, and getting the other in, were about two of the most satisfying days working on the 40.
Thanks for Great the input. There is a guy selling a 2 ton here so I might try to get today. Also, the body is off and I’m down basically to the block so don’t have to worry about clearing much.
 

3_puppies

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 2, 2002
Messages
13,741
Location
Helena MT
 
 
 
 
WhT do you guys use as attachment points for a chain?
stock there should be a hook on the passenger front of the block, along with 1 at the driver rear, if there isn't, you will need to find a threaded hole and use a suitable lifting apparatus
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2019
Messages
212
Location
BOISE, ID
It’s out...little stressful solo...and almost lost a pinky. Read on another thread that head bolts would work...hope doesn’t hurt anything
image.jpg
 
Joined
Jun 27, 2005
Messages
375
Location
San Jose CA
 
 
 
I used a furniture dolly, added a center board and put a wheel under the board. Space was limited and this let me move the thing around
 

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Users: 0, Guests: 1)

Top Bottom