Pulled the trigger on Eaton lockers (1 Viewer)

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Well Gents,

About to enter a giant rabbit hole. Fixing to remove the diff carriers off of my ‘94 80 with 174k miles on the odo. I’ll drop them off at Zuk’s for install sometime this month (I hope) where he will also instal 4.88s. My steering knuckles aren’t leaking but since I need to remove the hubs anyways, makes sense to rebuild them. While I’m in there I’ll also replace the tie rod ends, u-joints, brake pads, fix e-brake, inspect the breathers, and see what else needs attention. Any advice, pointers, well wishes are welcome. Gonna take it slow as it’s not my DD.

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On the fence on that one. I found a good write up on wiring to the OE dial but still got questions. Don’t hate the switches from Eaton though.

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Those are not bad you are right, not too many places for that style toggle switch in an 80. Reach out to @NLXTACY about wiring the lockers up to an OEM switch, he sells them for ARB and has told me it is possible to do the E lockers.
 
Agreed. Eaton is basically the only way to go for simplicity and ease of operation.

They took the E-locker (which Toyota basically stole from Eaton, engineering-wise) and made it full-proof stupid easy for even the worst garage wrencher.

Super smart marketing move.

We don’t do anything but Eatons on any truck we build. It’s a total no brainer.
 
On the fence on that one. I found a good write up on wiring to the OE dial but still got questions. Don’t hate the switches from Eaton though.

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I would skip the Toyota dial switch, and go for individual separate switches for front and rear.
It's an advantage to have the option of either or both locked and independent of the other
 
Another option with Eatons to simplify the wire harness is use one of the panels with integrated relays. I have mine triggered by a switchpro (which I already had for auxiliary switched circuits).
 
The Toyota OEM switch together with the OEM gauge cluster locker indicator lights makes for, well, a completely OEM look. But it requires a fair amount of effort and time, and involves acquiring the needed parts, removing the gauge cluster, splicing into the OEM wiring harness and incorporating two relays into the circuit. I went this route many years ago but would not do it again. The Eaton switches look great and make for a much easier install. If you decide to go the OEM route there's at least a couple of threads here on 'mud on how to do it.
 
My 80 was locked by the previous owner and they (Slee did the install) integrated the factory switch and dash lights. I have to admit, it is super slick.
 
I went air, but the OEM switching and dash light integration would be identical.
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It wasn't bad at all. The dash plug and wiring is already behind the dash, and you break into the harness behind the glovebox into wiring that isn't currently used anyway, so it's not like you're compromising the currently functioning wiring harness.
I really enjoy that it looks and acts completely OEM.
It would be interesting to lock the front diff only and with independent left/right rear wheel brakes you could drag the front end around super tight corners, like a farm tractor at the end of a row.
 
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Looks like there was some previous work done as one of the hub nuts looks a bit marred.
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Everything was nice and tight. Wheel bearing grease looked very brown, and has Koyo bearings. Is that factory?
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Took off spindle, removed abs, and removed birfield and axle. As I suspected no severe cross leakage of grease and diff fluid.
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Seal looks ok.
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Not wholly relevant at this time, but a guy doing a review of the Ineos Grenadier stated he felt their choice of Eaton for the axle locks was a negative. He had many pics showing failed units with broken teeth/splines, etc.
I don't have an opinion, but interesting to see here competing testimony to the brand/product.
 
Not wholly relevant at this time, but a guy doing a review of the Ineos Grenadier stated he felt their choice of Eaton for the axle locks was a negative. He had many pics showing failed units with broken teeth/splines, etc.
I don't have an opinion, but interesting to see here competing testimony to the brand/product.

I think we can find examples from every brand having failures. I’ve seen ARB carriers fail on Fordyce, I’ve seen Aussie videos of Harrop lockers failing, can also find stuff on Eaton. Any argument regarding reliability is moot imho. The only real difference between them all is their operation imho.
 
I’m running 35” tires. I recently had 4.88s and Eaton E-Lockers in my ‘94 80. The shop that installed them used the factory locker switch rather than the ones that come with the Eatons. I have mixed feelings about having gone that way. Part of me would like to be able to lock either front or rear or both, but I have to say, they worked great when I finally had a chance to try them out yesterday. I think you will love them.
 

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