PTO Winch Rebuild on a BJ61 (yes i know thats weird) (1 Viewer)

[brisveganbj42]

hey guys.

ok i might not be spot on with all my info but i'm sure you get the idea..

I have talked to advance trailer spares who look after thomas winches about the torque limiters and they reckon its too hard and not really feasable to use a torque limiter in that situation.. the hardest thing is getting one small enough to mount under there.. or so they say. and couldn't really give me any more info.

i'm content enough to stick to the shear pins for the moment..

 

[crushers]

too bad, i loved the idea...

 

[cruiser_guy]

anyone tried making their own gaskets?

Easy, I need to do that alot here. The dealer doesn't stock gaskets and all the Guatemalan "mechanics" use is great gobs of red silicone until it either stops leaking or there is so much silicone you can't see the difference between silicone and oil leaks!!

 

[harveya]

Seen that in some less than reputable garages here in the UK, mind you it works. So does use of proper RTV sealant. So does standard thin cardboard (with enough silicon on it - cereal packets do a good job).

Bodgers of the world unite, you have nothing to lose but your engine oil!!!

 

[Kon]

very true..

i found the website www.sor.com pretty useful..
they've got some parts but they are pretty expensive for me with postage almost $US25!! thats over 40 bucks for me..
so im goin to do a bit of a mass order.
i'll let ya's know how it goes when iv got it all sorted

 

[Tim-HJ61]

Kon,

I'm also in Perth with an HJ61 import and am wondering how you went with your winch. I bought some sheer pins from a crane and winch mob in Bayswater, drilled out the winch hole to fit the new sheer pin and tapped it in.

Yes it is quite soft but I was assured it was the right material, copper I think it is. But I can't pull anything without the pin breaking - damn annoying and has me thinking I'll just pull the winch off and flog it. I was trying to pull some palm trees out of my garden today, and as soon as some real strain came onto the winch, pop goes the sheer pin!

How have you found yours?

Tim

 

[BJ-44]

I helped my friend get parts and rebuild his PTO two months ago. There is not much too it, the only things might need changing are the two tapered roller bearings(look like wheel bearings) on the input shaft and two oil seals. The rest of the winch most likely need to be taken apart cleaned and reassembled. His kept breaking shear pins too easily and it was beause of the roller bearing being seized. As for the shear pin I just drill it out a bit bigger (on mine) and put a small bolt and nut in it and have not had problems with it since. I have pulled out 60's and 70's with them stuck up to the frame in mud and not had a problem.

 

[roscoFJ73]

the PTO was never really an option here, most are aftermarket or on imported models (like mine )
i did a bit of googling and it seems just as hard to get these annoying little parts like gaskets, circlips, snap rings etc...
so i reckon most of these will have to be either generic or home-made.

anyone tried making their own gaskets?

Yeah Kon I make my own sometimes. Odin Auto parts in Balcatta sell sheets of gasket material but cornflake packets work ok where a paper gasket is required.
You place the gasket material over the part and tap it with a small hammer until the shape is formed.
There is also a excellant new product by Permatex that is supposed to replace paper gaskets all together. I have used it and keep a tube for emergencies in the cruiser.

Any good machine shop could make you a shear pin. Try Bruce Mettam at Mettams engineering in Canham way Greenwood. He has owned a few cruisers and know his way around them

 

[Mongrel]

Common modification down here is a Grade 8.8 Cap screw. When they let go the break is clean and the stub usaually falls out. At $2 each its a no brainer. I keep 6 in the glovebox C/W nyloc nuts. As for winch cable, save up and buy PLASMA or similar, Its really good stuff and well worth the investment.

 

[Kon]

Plasma?

i was told that stuff is awesome, as long as its got a perfectly clean run, as in not rolling on fairleads or such as it is prone to snapping

 

[Japan4X4]

If you are running a Japanese PTO in OZ and want the parts email me. If you are in North America call G&S.

When I installed mine I also redid everything. Dead simple. Few bearings and some gaskets. The newer shear pins as found on the post 1990 winch are thicker but softer and only have one end that can pass through the hole.

Do yourself a favour, drill an other hole through the winch input shaft at 90 degrees and a few mm further out so you can shear a pin in one hole and then use the other till you can pound the first out.

I carry a 5 mm KTC punch in the glove box just for this.

If you really work at it you can find a winch with the through shaft and make up a drive socket for the front so you can hand winch the tension off the cable.

sales@japan4x4.com

 

[Tim-HJ61]

Material for Shear Pin

Thanks for the tip Rosco FJ73 - I don't live far from Greenwood so will call in to that machine shop.

What I am struggling with in all the searches that I've done regarding Shear Pins is the lack of clear information regarding:
a) the size of the pin, and
b) the material
that has worked for people. I read of 1/4" rolled pins, 8.8 bolts, but am dumb and don't know what these are made of. Are they ordinary steel or high tensile steel, or is 8.8 a stainless steel grade? 'Cap bolt', sorry don't know what that is. Too many local terms across the nations me thinks.

I have been supplied with copper rod of 3/16 thickness, which was close to the original sizing in my 1989 HJ61 PTO on an import. I drilled out the hole a little and knocked it in, but it breaks too easy and I need something stronger otherwise I'll be taking the winch off, it's next to useless that way it is.

When I bought the 3/16 copper rod, the guy initially gave me a 1/4" brass rod which he says was the standard for that winch. But clearly it was too thick, so we downsized to the 3/16".

Now the 3/16 is breaking too easily, I'll need to drill out the hole to take the 1/4" brass pin, but that will remove a fair bit more steel from the Uni joint and may weaken it. Have others that have put 1/4" pins in had trouble with this?

When I go to the machine shop and ask for a shear pin, what type of metal do I ask for?

Thanks
Tim