PTO-Pillow Block rebuild & Lengthen Driveshaft

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Sep 23, 2005
I guess a lot of the PTO's were made for the 3-speed trans. I have a 4-speed. So the drive shaft is 3" too short. No worries. While I was at it I tore apart the pillow block body. That was because it wouldn't turn. What I found out was,
Still available from Toyota:
Snap ring (holds bearing in place)
Large dust seal (made of felt)
Dust seal retainer

Not available anywhere I could find:
Small dust seal
Large washer.
Here are some pics that shows what is where. Oh, and how I lengthened the PTO drive shaft.
Yep, the pillow block body doesn't make it to the bracket that is welded to the front cross member. You can see the bolt fails to match up with the holes on the bracket by 3"
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So I unbolted the pillow block body from the drive shaft. The drive shaft that runs back to the PTO is on the left side of the pic.
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This next pic is of the yoke on the rear end of the pillow block. There is a castle nut on top of a thick washer. A lot cruddier when I first got in there. The yoke is kept from rotating by a Woodruff (sp?) key. Just used a lead hammer to coax the shaft out. Pretty cruddy in here too.
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I just used a puller to jerk off the dust seal retainer. Or whatever it's called. The old one I pounded back into shape. The old dust seal is toast of course. The new one is white. Sorry, forgot to take a pic of the pretty new one.
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The small end of the pillow block body has a felt dust seal too. But as I mentioned it's no longer available. So I bought the closest in size I could from McMaster and cut it down with an Exacto knife. Looked like it would do the job, but definitely a PITA. The snap ring before it's seated, on top of that the large washer, then the dust seal and the metal retainer.
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Let's see, small dust seal on the small end is in, then slide the shaft through and the bearing sits into the pillow block body. Then the snap ring. Dress up the Woodruff key and set it in place. Then drop in the large washer (about 2 1/4" OD) after coating it with a film of copper paste, then set the dust seal into the retainer and set it into the pillow block body. Then used the arbor press to press the yoke onto the shaft. This is what it looks like. You'll see on the ID of the retainer a sliver of white in a couple places. That's the new dust seal.
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The other end, the end that goes to the winch. The black around the shaft is the felt dust seal that I had to cut down to fit. But it seemed like it was going to work o.k. Like I had a choice.
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I cut the drive shaft about 3 1/2" at the PTO end. The OD of the shaft is just about 1". Just a few .000 less. So I bought a piece of 1" dia. cold rolled steel and cut it to a length of 7". I turned two inches off each end down to .8", the ID of the drive shaft, on my lathe. I thought this would give it the most strength and also allow me to weld it up so the shaft would remain straight.
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I had grand ideas of just rolling the shaft along the top of my welding table as I layed a bead in with my mig. Yeah right. So, just tacked it up and did a section at a time. Not what I wanted as far as a bead in terms of cosmetics so I ground it down flush with the shaft. But the weld is good. Ain't goin' anywhere.
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Had stripped the paint off the whole shaft so painted it w/ Zero rust. The flash makes it look like bare metal. Guess I'll install it tonight if I have the time.
If I had everything on hand this would have been a 3 hr. job for me. I'm a little slow. But between running around to get the bearing from Autozone, to Toyota for a few parts there, to the metal supply for the steel to lengthen the drive shaft, waiting for the felt seal to come from McMaster, etc., it took two freakin' weeks. Oh, relandscaping the back yard and going to work played a part as well.
On to the next project, the FJ60 PS mod.
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