Pto advice (1 Viewer)

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I have a 67 FJ40 With a factory PTO winch. The previous owner ran it into a rock and broke the front mounting flange on the winch body that houses the gears. I tried unsuccessfully to locate a replacement housing. I have also been told that a factory PTO is basically worthless and that I should consider replacing with an electric winch. Looking for some advice as to keep original PTO or replace with electric.
 
IMHO... pto has the vintage cool factor but a modern electric winch is hands down a better choice for real world use and convience.
 
If you want to keep the PTO, have someone weld the mounting feet back on ( cast iron ) and make some supports like I did. It holds the whole assembly tight and takes pressure off the mounting feet.

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IMHO... pto has the vintage cool factor but a modern electric winch is hands down a better choice for real world use and convience.

Problem is you need to upgrade the electrical system on a 67 to use a modern electric winch. Back in the mid seventies lived in South Lake Tahoe. Started up the Rubicon on got stuck in a snow drift. Along came some kids in a early CJ, guessing fifties or early sixties. Pulled me right out. Then watch them drive into snow backs on purpose to get stuck. One kid would release the spool and run out to about the end of the spool and they would winch the Jeep to that spot with the PTO winch. Did time after time. I finally turned around and drive back since it was obvious I wasn't going any further with no winch and open diffs. Few years later was on a elk hunt in Northern Arizona. A jeep had slid off the forest service road and a seventies 1/2 Chevy was using a Warn electric winch to pull him back on the road. Took a half a hour. Truck would pull the jeep and short way then the winch would stall because of low voltage. He would run the truck for a few minutes to charge the battery and try again. I used my 68 FJ40 to light the area because the truck light were very dim. It was these two times why I decided to go with a factory PTO winch. On my stock 68 with headlights on and heater blower on high at idle the lights dim and fan slows down. Definitely not up to a electric winch on a long pull. On a 67 if it's stock would plan on upgrading the electrical system if going with a electric winch.
 
And a Factory PTO is a great big heavy piece of gold to some folks.
In other words, it's far from junk. Don't trash it!
 
Th
Problem is you need to upgrade the electrical system on a 67 to use a modern electric winch. Back in the mid seventies lived in South Lake Tahoe. Started up the Rubicon on got stuck in a snow drift. Along came some kids in a early CJ, guessing fifties or early sixties. Pulled me right out. Then watch them drive into snow backs on purpose to get stuck. One kid would release the spool and run out to about the end of the spool and they would winch the Jeep to that spot with the PTO winch. Did time after time. I finally turned around and drive back since it was obvious I wasn't going any further with no winch and open diffs. Few years later was on a elk hunt in Northern Arizona. A jeep had slid off the forest service road and a seventies 1/2 Chevy was using a Warn electric winch to pull him back on the road. Took a half a hour. Truck would pull the jeep and short way then the winch would stall because of low voltage. He would run the truck for a few minutes to charge the battery and try again. I used my 68 FJ40 to light the area because the truck light were very dim. It was these two times why I decided to go with a factory PTO winch. On my stock 68 with headlights on and heater blower on high at idle the lights dim and fan slows down. Definitely not up to a electric winch on a long pull. On a 67 if it's stock would plan on upgrading the electrical system if going with a electric winch.
thanks, I will work to repair what I have. Rebuilding the whole cruiser. Including complete
If you want to keep the PTO, have someone weld the mounting feet back on ( cast iron ) and make some supports like I did. It holds the whole assembly tight and takes pressure off the mounting feet.

View attachment 1589887

View attachment 1589891
If you want to keep the PTO, have someone weld the mounting feet back on ( cast iron ) and make some supports like I did. It holds the whole assembly tight and takes pressure off the mounting feet.

View attachment 1589887

View attachment 1589891
If you want to keep the PTO, have someone weld the mounting feet back on ( cast iron ) and make some supports like I did. It holds the whole assembly tight and takes pressure off the mounting feet.

View attachment 1589887

View attachment 1589891
thanks for the suggestion. Your fix looks great. I will continue to look for someone to weld cast iron.
 
If you want to keep the PTO, have someone weld the mounting feet back on ( cast iron ) and make some supports like I did. It holds the whole assembly tight and takes pressure off the mounting feet.

View attachment 1589887

View attachment 1589891

I like the way you beefed up the main section but have question on the housing. The front of mine have a round shaft with a keyway. Yours is a solid plate. Do you know if this was stock a mod done later?
 
I like the way you beefed up the main section but have question on the housing. The front of mine have a round shaft with a keyway. Yours is a solid plate. Do you know if this was stock a mod done later?

Sorry, just seen your post, but no I don't know much about which model mine is or what model cruiser it came from.
 
Welding cast is easy but best done by pro. I broke a large vise. He used a “special “ rod? And an stick welder, it has held up to much abuse for 15 years.
 

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