PSA: Check your factory rear recovery hook bolts!!! (1 Viewer)

[bloc]

I removed the rear recovery loop to do some work on my reverse light wiring today and was not happy with what I found from the bolts. The pictures will tell the story.. I have 185k miles, first 105 in Tennessee, 80 here in central Texas, a handful of ski trips but overall my rig is very low rust.

If this is happening on my rig, I’d bet it’s much worse on some of yours.

I never really planned to use this recovery loop since I have a couple hitch carrier based options. Still.. I want things working right.

These bolts are the same as 08-15 front caliper/hub carrier bolts: 91672-L1240
So far no one has found the torque on these in the manual, but on the calipers and lower rear shock bolts (same thread/pitch/grade, different length) they go to 73ft-lbf

To show how non-rusty my rig is:

 

[ToothDr]

On a side note, how do you like the Slee cat guards? I’m getting the Slee skids and cat guards in May

 

[bloc]

On a side note, how do you like the Slee cat guards? I’m getting the Slee skids and cat guards in May

Mostly great, but see the thread about them for some quirks some people had on one of the passenger side bolts. And ignore their 15ft-lbf torque spec!

 

[doru]

About the bolt torque....

Toyota has not published it.
Kaon KS0328/39 recovery point for Land Cruiser 200 series specs: 126Nm / 93ft.lbs.
ARB 2815020 recovery point for Land Cruiser 200 series install specs: 120Nm / 88ft.lbs.

I'm using Kaon specs.

 

[bloc]

About the bolt torque....

Toyota has not published it.
Kaon KS0328/39 recovery point for Land Cruiser 200 series specs: 126Nm / 93ft.lbs.
ARB 2815020 recovery point for Land Cruiser 200 series install specs: 120Nm / 88ft.lbs.

I'm using Kaon specs.

If you are using kaon hardware that makes sense. With the exact same Toyota hardware in other places, using the same torque value is more logical.

 

[linuxgod]

Interesting. I didn’t notice mine looking like the one on your left when I installed my rear bumper last year. My rig spent 2 winters in Houston and then the last 7 in Chicago. Most of my bolts look like the one on your right.

I think I retorqued mine to like 100#

 

[AnyMal]

you’ve seen my underbelly… clean.

But I too truly do not get how so many of my bolts are collecting water in their threads either. Everytime i pull something, im suprised with corrosion on threading. Now i know the frame welds love to rust, but this has me scratching my head on a 5 year old truck.

Now im not smart enough to know what bolt treatment to apply where without either creating a dangerous situation, or bollocksing up the torque for said coated bolt.

There must be a good, safe and reliable way to address this properly for us who frequently drop bolts?

I know at the very least a lot of if noy all my belly pan bolts (10m plastic retainers) up front for example are completely rusted and need replacing. And now im concerned with the receiving threads.

Dont get it.

 

[bloc]

you’ve seen my underbelly… clean.

But I too truly do not get how so many of my bolts are collecting water in their threads either. Everytime i pull something, im suprised with corrosion on threading. Now i know the frame welds love to rust, but this has me scratching my head on a 5 year old truck.

Now im not smart enough to know what bolt treatment to apply where without either creating a dangerous situation, or bollocksing up the torque for said coated bolt.

There must be a good, safe and reliable way to address this properly for us who frequently drop bolts?

I know at the very least a lot of if noy all my belly pan bolts (10m plastic retainers) up front for example are completely rusted and need replacing. And now im concerned with the receiving threads.

Dont get it.

Grease on the base of the threads that don't go into the frame should prevent what I pictured here. I think it comes down to the coatings toyota uses on some of their higher grade hardware. I have seen rust like you describe in other places but on my truck at least never had anything turn into a real problem getting a bolt out.. other than the downpipe nuts from the manifold, and being exhaust parts those are kindof a different ball game. If stuff like M8 hardware is getting sticky I'll put some anti-seize on them. Whether I do that for high torque hardware like pictured above is a judgement call.. if I think it is needed to prevent problems in the future, I'll use it. In this case the fact that other hook providers are running 20 ft-lbf more than toyota means the frame hardware can probably handle the extra load.

For smaller stuff like the M6 hardware you mention I'd have no problem greasing them. I don't torque stuff that small unless it's super important.. a high pressure fuel pump fuel metering head, for instance. I had the same corrosion on that small hardware when I got my truck and put a little grease on them including the threads, they were doing fine until I pulled them for the slee skids. Note that those bolts in particular have a black coating that is flat in appearance.. I think this contributes to the corrosion there, as compared to the silver of the other splash shield hardware.

 

[AnyMal]

Grease on the base of the threads that don't go into the frame should prevent what I pictured here. I think it comes down to the coatings toyota uses on some of their higher grade hardware. I have seen rust like you describe in other places but on my truck at least never had anything turn into a real problem getting a bolt out.. other than the downpipe nuts from the manifold, and being exhaust parts those are kindof a different ball game. If stuff like M8 hardware is getting sticky I'll put some anti-seize on them. Whether I do that for high torque hardware like pictured above is a judgement call.. if I think it is needed to prevent problems in the future, I'll use it. In this case the fact that other hook providers are running 20 ft-lbf more than toyota means the frame hardware can probably handle the extra load.

For smaller stuff like the M6 hardware you mention I'd have no problem greasing them. I don't torque stuff that small unless it's super important.. a high pressure fuel pump fuel metering head, for instance. I had the same corrosion on that small hardware when I got my truck and put a little grease on them including the threads, they were doing fine until I pulled them for the slee skids. Note that those bolts in particular have a black coating that is flat in appearance.. I think this contributes to the corrosion there, as compared to the silver of the other splash shield hardware.

I also stopped torque speccing those long ago. My judgment is not to your level but my laziness definitely surpasses lol.

Probably will replace those black 10s and also the factory trans sled skid bolts as that tube just loves to collect and route water. Those are the stainless hardware with the most corrosion by far.

Thanks!

 

[doru]

With the critical bolts the only solutions short of recoating the bolts (not economical unless you work for a business that does that) is to periorically removed them, clean and reinstall. Some soaking in PB blaster also helps with cleaning. Although PB blaster is not a grease it is a good idea you wipe the bolts before install.