PS Pump options (New Aftermarket, OEM Rebuilt, or rebuild my old one) (1 Viewer)

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Hello all,

My 1996 LX450 with 167k miles has a PS leak and the pump groans when turning even though the fluid is pretty full. Because of the age, noise, and leaks, I want to just replace all the lines and pump at the same time. I've sourced the hoses, but I'm not sure what the best option is for the pump itself. I'm seeing the following options:

1) new aftermarket pumps from $100 to $180 with no core charge
2) rebuilt pumps for about $85 after core
3) New Toyota pump for about $280
4) Toyota rebuild kit for my old pump for about $65

All things being equal I would just buy one of the new ones, but I have to assume they are not close to the quality of the Toyota part.

Assuming I can do the rebuild myself, am I just as well off rebuilding my existing one vs buying a rebuild from Toyota?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Just buy the Toyota one. I did a rebuilt and started leaking after 8 years.
 
Hello all,

My 1996 LX450 with 167k miles has a PS leak and the pump groans when turning even though the fluid is pretty full. Because of the age, noise, and leaks, I want to just replace all the lines and pump at the same time. I've sourced the hoses, but I'm not sure what the best option is for the pump itself. I'm seeing the following options:

1) new aftermarket pumps from $100 to $180 with no core charge
2) rebuilt pumps for about $85 after core
3) New/rebuilt Toyota pump for about $280
4) Toyota rebuild kit for my old pump for about $65

All things being equal I would just buy one of the new ones, but I have to assume they are not close to the quality of the Toyota part.

Assuming I can do the rebuild myself, am I just as well off rebuilding my existing one vs buying a rebuild from Toyota?

Thanks in advance!

I chose to rebuild mine because I'm set up for it and had the time (retired). That way I was certain it would be done right and with quality Toyota parts. But if time is at a premium for you...then a new or reman Toy unit would be an easy swap.
 
From what I've gathered, getting the main drive gear off the pump - for either a rebuild or replacement - w/o damaging it seems to have about 1 in 2 success. Best chance, and of course the most costly approach, is a new pump and gear.

PLUS I'm seeing conflicting info on this...
If the pump is doing it's typical whining (fluid full with no bubbles or leaks) isn't that the little slider panels in the pump wheel? And if so, the rebuild kit alone won't fix that, correct? And if that's the case, is it really worth trying to replace those panels over getting a new pump?
 
It was a rebuild from autozone.

So china parts stuffed in it.

Just buy an OEM new one, yes they cost $450 but last 15-20yrs. Or rebuild yours yourself with an OEM kit.

Cheers
 
From what I've gathered, getting the main drive gear off the pump - for either a rebuild or replacement - w/o damaging it seems to have about 1 in 2 success. Best chance, and of course the most costly approach, is a new pump and gear.

PLUS I'm seeing conflicting info on this...
If the pump is doing it's typical whining (fluid full with no bubbles or leaks) isn't that the little slider panels in the pump wheel? And if so, the rebuild kit alone won't fix that, correct? And if that's the case, is it really worth trying to replace those panels over getting a new pump?
^^^^

IF the vanes are sticking or worn...then yes, a rebuild kit will not help that. The vanes are available for replacement last time I looked however.


Pump Pic8a.jpg
 
Pump gear shouldn't be at risk for damage (if original) and properly removed. Most often...it gets damaged when removing the nut (folks like to put it in a vise or grab it with pliers which damages the teeth). An impact will remove the nut handily using nothing but a pair of gloves to hold the gear. It is only torqued to 54 ft. lbs...though the 'break away' torque is more.....it still comes off easily.

Then use a puller to remove the gear.


Pump Pic1a.jpg



Torque to 54 ft. lbs when reinstalling the gear.

Pump Pic18.jpg
 
Do not buy a rebuilt. Rebuild your stock pump if it's just leaking or buy a new OEM. I wasted a lot of time with garbage rebuilds, on one the threads were all chewed up. On the other rebuild I wasted a week thinking I needed to bleed air out of the system, turned out the rebuild was bad. New OEM worked great.
 
^^^^

IF the vanes are sticking or worn...then yes, a rebuild kit will not help that. The vanes are available for replacement last time I looked however.
Vanes. Thank you.
So everything else being nominal, and you still have whining/groaning, are the vanes the sole reason for it?
What else can cause that noise that the kit will resolve?

And I don't mean to hijack the thread OP. Hoping this is helpful to you and others also.
Also assume the box has been rebuilt with no leaks too.
 
Then use a puller to remove the gear.
And this is where alot of posters say their issues came from. The 'wrong' puller ganked the teeth edges during removal. I don't know enough of the diff between pullers.
Did you use the puller in the pic to remove the gear? (my apologies if all that is in another thread. I've read so many...)
Is it an Amazon puller, or a proper puller?
 
And this is where alot of posters say their issues came from. The 'wrong' puller ganked the teeth edges during removal. I don't know enough of the diff between pullers.
Did you use the puller in the pic to remove the gear? (my apologies if all that is in another thread. I've read so many...)
Is it an Amazon puller, or a proper puller?

Generic puller with some electric tape on the claws to minimize marring of the gears. Impact gun and glove take care of the nut with minimal drama.

If the original pump lasted 20+ years...it makes sense to buy a new OEM pump. If on a budget...rebuild it yourself. I wouldn't consider anything else.
 
Vanes. Thank you.
So everything else being nominal, and you still have whining/groaning, are the vanes the sole reason for it?
What else can cause that noise that the kit will resolve?

Internal leakage, regardless where it occurs. Sticky control valve. Air in the system or turbulent/foaming fluid. All will result in a whining/groaning noise.

The rebuild kit seeks to provide good 'seals'....but nothing else. It is incumbent upon the person working on the pump to inspect it to see if any other actions/parts are necessary. A patient, detail oriented person should have no trouble rebuilding one. Conversely, the kind of person who will just throw seals in it...put it back together and cross their fingers is likely to be disappointed.

There are more than a few parts involved, so for some folks this could be a job you might want to 'punt' on.


ps pump assy.jpg


Gates version of seal kit.

PS repair kit1.jpg
 
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And this is where alot of posters say their issues came from. The 'wrong' puller ganked the teeth edges during removal. I don't know enough of the diff between pullers.
Did you use the puller in the pic to remove the gear? (my apologies if all that is in another thread. I've read so many...)
Is it an Amazon puller, or a proper puller?

Yes, that is my pic from my rebuild. Puller is just a Craftsman (5" I believe, two jaw). But anything that makes good contact with the gear and has jaws large enough to spread the load should work fine.
 
Toyota does not do remanufactured hydraulic pumps of any sort for the Land Cruiser series.
OK, that makes sense because there is no core charge. Thanks for the clarification.
 
Vanes. Thank you.
So everything else being nominal, and you still have whining/groaning, are the vanes the sole reason for it?
What else can cause that noise that the kit will resolve?

And I don't mean to hijack the thread OP. Hoping this is helpful to you and others also.
Also assume the box has been rebuilt with no leaks too.
I have not gotten to the box yet, this truck is new to me so I'm tackling the obvious issues first and since the pump is coated in oil, I'm doing that along with the hoses.
 
Internal leakage, regardless where it occurs. Sticky control valve. Air in the system or turbulent/foaming fluid. All will result in a whining/groaning noise.

The rebuild kit seeks to provide good 'seals'....but nothing else. It is incumbent upon the person working on the pump to inspect it to see if any other actions/parts are necessary. A patient, detail oriented person should have no trouble rebuilding one. Conversely, the kind of person who will just throw seals in it...put it back together and cross their fingers is likely to be disappointed.

There are more than a few parts involved, so for some folks this could be a job you might want to 'punt' on.


View attachment 2668396

Gates version of seal kit.

View attachment 2668397
Thanks for this info!

Is the Gates kit of similar quality to Toyota OEM? I don't have a problem with using their HP hose for this, so I'm assuming I'll be ok with this kit as well.
 

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