Builds Project X² (1 Viewer)

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My goal is to make it look like my first 60 I built back in '87 minus the 350 TPI engine and such, but with 35's instead of 33's. A cool mod back in the 80's for Cruisers was to cut the centers out of GM Ralley wheels to run on your Cruiser. Back then there were not very many options for aftermarket wheels that looked right on Cruisers so I went along with the trend. Went aftermarket for a short time, then back to the GMs. Dig that Armor All
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This is great Gary. I am really looking forward to seeing what the final result is!

:popcorn:
 
Another possible route is the integrated exocage you see from time to time. It is getting more popular to do and keeps the structure out of the way. Google image search "hybrid inner/exo cage" or similar. I think CreeperSleeper is going that route with his new 80 body.


I am. Here is a couple links for you if you are interested, Gary:

ZJ Cage pictures by shotmobile - Photobucket
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/478054-acc-fzj80-cage-build.html#post6575154
XJ Hybrid Cage | Those Guys Rod & Customs | Patrick McAuliffe
ZJ Hybrid cage - North American Grand Cherokee Association
 
Waggoner5 said:
I want some frame hanging down to keep the body off the rocks when this truck is wheeled, but not so much that its an eyesore.

Fixed! You can't build a cruiser and not wheel it!

Didn't someone over in the 60 series section do a swap like this a few years back but without the v8 swap? Lowtide maybe? I can't remember his name, but if you can find his thread it might be worth a read.

Cool project anyway, keep it up!
 
Checking in for what I'm sure will be another awesome build! Loved the FZJ45 and this has all of the signs of being equally as perfect!

Keep up the good work Gary, you manage to do what many of us dream of, but don't have the time/resources to pull off!
 
Thanks...Made some progress today. I had to have some 12" pieces of rectangular tubing made to sleeve the inside of the cut frame. Thanks to Slee's machine shop, the frame came back together perfectly and even square. Imagine that.
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Nice Gary.

It's always good to have a quality machine shop around indeed.

Are you going to plate around the cut or just a straight weld all the way around the frame?
 
I am not going to plate. I will weld around the seam then rosette weld in several areas. I do not want to see where it was ever done. The sleeve was thick and with side, upper, and lower rosettes, it should be at least as strong as factory. On top of this, I am going to use a Slee belly pan for an 80 that will overlap this seam and bolt the 2 frame halves together.
 
How are you planning to get a good layer of paint down inside the sleeved area once its welded? Or is corrosion not a huge issue where you are?
 
Probably just spray a ton of wax up inside, but corrosion won't be a big issue. It won't get driven much during the winters up here. Christo and I were talking about galvanizing today, but not sure that will happen either.
 
Gary,

Just curious how big a deal or not this is/was to deal with...I noticed you used a ratchet strap so maybe there's enough easy flex in the frame (width wise) to easily accommodate your splice without worrying about alignment issues?

Dan
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Honestly I was a little worried about that as well. The frame turned out to be 3/4" off on each side and I was considering making a frame splice that would make up that difference. I decided to have the inserts made anyway and give it a try first. By sliding the inserts 1/2 the way inside the engine side frame first and tacking them, it brought the rear frame to within 1/8" on each side. I slid one side in some, then worked the other side in some, all by hand and without the use of a strap side to side, then attached 2 come-alongs, one per side, and started ratcheting. I was pretty surprised when the 2 sides of the frame slid together with no real friction. The 12" insert is evenly spaced and the frame is still perfectly square. My only concern was the rear lower arms binding because of the frame being pulled in, but after measuring at the splice and at the control arm mount, the frame had pulled in only between the control arm mount and the transmission mount area. The engine side of the frame had spread apart almost an equal amount. Christo wanted me to cut the frame where the control arm mount is, but I'm lazy and didnt want to have to cut the mount off, shorten the frame, then reattach the mount. This was easy and I'm relatively certain that it will be plenty strong.
 
I will weld around the seam then rosette weld in several areas. I do not want to see where it was ever done. The sleeve was thick and with side, upper, and lower rosettes, it should be at least as strong as factory.

By rosette welds, you mean there are holes in the frame through which you can see the insert and you're going to run a bead around the inside of the holes to the insert?

I love the look of the GM rally wheels.
 
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looking great so far!

I'm no engineer-- but it sure seems like rosette welding along the factory holes in the frame-- to the insert-- should be plenty strong enough, especially with butt welding the frame halves.
 
sandcruiser said:
I'm no engineer-- /QUOTE]

Just like sandcruiser, I have never driven a train...but I agree with his assessment!
 
with butt welding the frame halves.

I'd leave a 1/4" gap so the welds at the butt joint had good penetration into the insert. If you did so you could grind it flat and you wouldn't even know it was there.

"The welder giveth and the grinder taketh away."
 
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Beveled it to about an 1/8", but my welder can burn through the frame easy.

Yes, Rosette welding the outer existing holes to the insert. I cannot imagine it not being adequate, but I'm no engineer either.
 
I cannot imagine it not being adequate, but I'm no engineer either.

But you have definitely played one on TV.

:grinpimp:

You and Kirk need to start a business. Serious. Between the two of you, there wouldn't be any truck that couldn't be had in the States with any engine combo....

:cheers:
 

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