Builds Project X² (2 Viewers)

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Waggoner5 said:
Beveled it to about an 1/8", but my welder can burn through the frame easy.

Yes, Rosette welding the outer existing holes to the insert. I cannot imagine it not being adequate, but I'm no engineer either.
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If Godzilla rips the rig in half the frame will break on one side of this joint or the other. :zilla:
 
It should be stupidly strong, as long as the butt weld is properly beveled and there is the correct amount of gap between the 2 halves of the frame to get good penetration into the sleeve, and it has plenty of good rosette welds.

Should be stronger than the bird-s*** that I see put down at work everyday:rolleyes:

From what I saw of the last project, Gary looks like he is on the ball with this stuff! :cool:
 
I'd plate it just to be safe....

Just me though!
 
Its Looking great gary!

I do agree, you guys should start a fab shop.

I would like a 4 door 40 ....with a yota Twin turboed diesel .. And can it hover? Please?






Pretty please..
 
spressomon said:
Gary,

Just curious how big a deal or not this is/was to deal with...I noticed you used a ratchet strap so maybe there's enough easy flex in the frame (width wise) to easily accommodate your splice without worrying about alignment issues?

Dan
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I honestly didn't think it would give enough to make that work. However now that it is done I think it will look good and invisible.

With the 79 we are building we had to stretch and we had to do it on the straight. As for corrosion, I am looking into getting the whole frame galvanized when we have completed the fabrication.
 
I am sure it won't come apart but I was taught that straight cuts on the frame are strictly VERBOTEN!

See post #38 LINK

Dyno
 
Waggoner5 said:
Hurry up and find us a galvanizing shop. I will be ready in a few days.
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Have you thought about "glowing" (heating to get the stress out) the frame before galvanizing.
Stress points from bending are potential rust points even after galvanizing.

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
 
Dynosoar said:
I am sure it won't come apart but I was taught that straight cuts on the frame are strictly VERBOTEN!
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It's not the cuts that are bad, it's welding it back up that way that would not be strong. With the frame insert in there it's as strong as if it was never cut at all, regardless of the shape of the cuts.
 
I am planning on galvanizing my frame as well when the body comes off next month.

I'm also going to get my frame straightened.... :rolleyes: :lol:
 
:beer::popcorn:

What suspension will go under ? Slee, OME ?
I saw that sweet FJ45 (project X) at Pismo and it had a set of Slee shocks.. will you be using them as well on this project ??
 
Waggoner5 said:
Hurry up and find us a galvanizing shop. I will be ready in a few days.
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I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir but... Make sure your galvanizer knows you're going to be painting it - he'll probably assume that based on what it is. That way he'll skip any chromating at the end of the process. You'll also want to paint it within 48 hours or so of galvanizing so you avoid having to remove the zinc oxide layer that will begin to form.
I've also seen some pretty heavy wall stuff warp from galvanizing. I'm sure your guy will take into account the thin wall of the frame.
 
OME 2.5" on a stock truck (no heavy bumpers) rides like junk. I have three sand bags in the back of my 450 and it's still bouncy. I put 7 eighty pound bags of mortar in there and it was a whole new truck. I might see if the guy making progressive coils has another batch ready.
 
JasonH said:
I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir but... Make sure your galvanizer knows you're going to be painting it - he'll probably assume that based on what it is. That way he'll skip any chromating at the end of the process. You'll also want to paint it within 48 hours or so of galvanizing so you avoid having to remove the zinc oxide layer that will begin to form.
I've also seen some pretty heavy wall stuff warp from galvanizing. I'm sure your guy will take into account the thin wall of the frame.
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Not to go too far off tangent - but I have an older galvanized frame on my 88" Series III Rover - I had hoped to paint it when I replace most the body this year. Is there anything that can be used to prep an older galvanized part and have a reasonable expectation of most of it lasting?
 
The zinc oxide is water soluable so it'll wash off with normal use and exposure to rain, etc. It stops forming after about a year, so if it was done more than a year or so ago, it should be gone. Just make sure there's no high spots of galvanizing - grind those down. Otherwise just rough up the surface and clean it.
 
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